Synopsis: A hike by bus from Exeter. Starts and ends with country walking and exploration of villages. High Dartmoor walking in-between, including Cosdon Beacon. Wild and remote, just as it should be.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
An early start this morning, as I wished to catch the 7:50 bus from Exeter Bus Station heading towards Okehampton. The sun was shining, and the day promised to be fair, so I was keen to get going. I’d prepared a hiking route which I’d loaded to my mobile phone, along with some bus times for return journey. In researching the walk I’d discovered my bus journey was covered by one of the variations of Exeter Dayrider tickets (detail below), which made for economical travel. I was dropped at my hike start point, Firestone Cross, punctually, before 9am, and was on my way.
I had to walk a short stretch of the main road, from where I was dropped by the bus, to reach the narrow country lane that would take me my chosen route to East Week. Actually, it soon became less of a lane, more of dirt track, but absolutely no problem for a person on foot such as myself today. The hedgerows were a mass of spring colour, and I knew immediately that the wildflowers I’d see today would be a real treat on this walk. I caught this early glimpse of my target destination, Cosdon Beacon.
I knew I was close to the first village of my walk today when a post box, almost secreted in a hedge, came into sight. East Week, the part that I saw, seemed tiny and lost in the countryside. Just a few houses strung out along the roadside. I was looking for the path to Throwleigh, which soon came into view.
Looking ahead, down the path, I could see large granite boulders had been strewn along the way, as an aid to walkers. Is it really going to be that wet I wondered? As it happened, today, after little rain and much sun, the ground under foot was largely dry and easy going. But, looking all around me, there were signs that it needn’t always be like that, times when I’m sure the granite boulder stepping stones would be a most welcome for passing walkers.
The next village I came across was Throwleigh. I’d briefly explored the church here on a previous walk many years ago. I was keen to pay it a repeat visit. The church has a lovely setting. The interior is relatively plain, having had an extensive make-over during Victorian times. It’s not a large church, but despite it’s unpretentious looks, I find it quite appealing. I examined the Easter Sepulchre [my photo on Flickr], which is described as being 'unique'
I briefly dropped down through the small village of Throwleigh. Once again, as with East Week, it’s a tiny hamlet of just a few houses dotted along the road. I chatted with a lady waiting for the weekly bus that is perhaps Throwleigh’s only contact with the outside world. She was telling me about the signs she’d put up along the road, telling people not to park there, as it would obstruct the bus. Imagine that happening in the city – not in a month of Sundays, as my father would have said. The lady I spoke with was keen to preserve this connection with the ‘civilised world’.
Needing to be on my way, I sought my route out of the village, which I found to be a steeply rising narrow lane, cut into the hillside. After a short distance the lane levelled out and opened up and I was in a typical wildflower lined hedged Devon lane. The hills of Dartmoor loomed ahead of me, but there was one more treat in store before I reached the open moorland.
The next ‘item on my agenda’ was actually the reason I happened to be walking in this area. I’d stumbled upon, whilst browsing the Internet, the fact that arguably Devon’s oldest and finest traditional farm building is to be found nearby at Higher Shilstone Farmhouse Including Stables and Garden Walls Adjoining to South (Listed Grade I) [Historic England List]. The fact that it is listed Grade I tells one enough to know that this is an extremely important and highly regarded building. Parts of the building are deemed to date back to the 13th century. I could only glimpse it from the roadside, but it immediately transported me to another age when country living was hard and raw. There is a Dung Pit (Listed Grade II) and Barn and Linhay (Listed Grade II*) [Historic England List] nearby.
The lane does a quick zig-zag before opening out onto open moorland. It’s a seemingly sudden change from pasture land to the wild openness of the moor. I walked a brief stretch of road before branching off right near a house, onto a dirt track that began my ascent onto the moor. I made a slight navigational error here, overshooting a little my planned route (this can be seen in my GPS trace). The walking became a little more strenuous as I battled my way through scrub, there being no discernible path on the ground. I startled a hare, or did it startle me? It had been resting in the shelter of a gorse bush when I came upon it. It darted away really quickly in that distinctly rapid bouncy way of hares (and tiggers). It’s so rare to see a hare in Devon. This is probably only the second that I’ve seen in all my walking.
Looking around me, to the south it was easy to make out Fernworthy Forest, a favourite haunt of mine. The valley which is the source of the Teign could be seen close by. To the east it was even easier to make out Castle Drogo (NT), as it remains clad in scaffolding and tarpaulin that reflected the light. To the west lay the high rugged peaks of the north moor. There was not a soul in sight. The sun dial [my photo on Flickr] on the parish church in Throwleigh spoke of the beloved solitary nature of the moor, and here it was to be experienced first hand. I had no complaints.
I rounded a gently sloping hill and hit upon a clear and distinctive track climbing the hillside. Suddenly I was making better progress, as walking was less of a struggle. I could see a ridge up ahead, and, as I was feeling hungry, decided to make that my lunch stop. As I approached the ridge, I could see that I was headed for Little Hound Tor, and on this tor is a stone circle. I stopped for a photo or two. There was a brisk breeze blowing on this exposed hill ridge. I chatted briefly with a walker that was intersecting my path. Afterwards I noticed a scar in the hill side [my photo on Flickr], presumably a mine working, and was able to duck down the embankment to find shelter in which to sit and eat my lunch.
Once I’d finished my lunch, I set off from Little Hound Tor. The course I needed was a very distinctive wide track along the hill ridge in the direction of Cosdon Beacon, which was to be the highest point on my walk today. As is the way with moorland walking, there was no shelter from the direct rays of the midday sun; I was getting quite a roasting. But the advantage of such glorious weather was that I could see for miles in all directions. As a moor walk with far-reaching views, this has be hard to beat.
An old Ordnance Survey trig point marks the highest point of Cosdon Beacon. These trig points no longer serve any mapping purpose, but they remain useful direction markers for walkers. A couple had reached this point before me, having approached from the opposite direction to me. Their intention was to walk as far as Little Hound Tor and view the stone circle. They’d been warned against taking the route from which I’d come, having been told it was very wet. Look at the OS map and yes, you’ll see marshes in several locations, but my path had been dry underfoot.
My next intention was to walk to South Zeal, from where I was to catch a bus homeward. Coming off Cosdon Beacon I was treated to views for miles all around. Ahead of me lay a wide expanse of north Devon countryside. This is some of the best of Devon.
The path once again returned to being rather indistinct at this point, which was of little concern to me. I had a route recorded on my mobile phone, and simply followed this, which I knew would connect me with a track leading off in the direction of South Zeal. The descent was relatively steep until I reached the track where it moderated.
Not far along the hedged track I reached a point where a footpath was signposted over a wall with stepping stones built into it. I thought this was my path and took it. It was a happy mistake. It actually took me some distance away from my intended route which was meant to follow the track virtually to the bus stop in South Zeal. Instead, I looped out of my way, and was glad I did. It followed this quaint little stream tumbling down the hillside in a mini-chasm lined with wild flowers and ferns. It was a delightful path.
On reaching a road, I took a turn left which I knew would take me into South Zeal. This was a little circuitous, as my intended bus stop is on the main road which bypasses the centre of the village. I wasn’t perturbed, as I had time to spare before my bus was due, and it was pleasing to see a little of South Zeal village. Eventually I climbed back up to the main road at the point where my bus stop was to be found.
I say, rather euphemistically, bus stop, whereas in appearance, it looks nothing more than a layby, without so much as a bus stop sign. I crossed the road to a visible bus stop serving buses travelling in the other direction, and this confirmed that I was standing in the right place. I had a 30 minute wait till my bus was due. There was no shelter to be had, so I was baked in the intense rays of the sun.
The bus arrived punctually, which I was thankful for, as I needed to get out of the sun. Roughly an hour’s journey on the bus was required to get me back to Exeter. It had been a superb day’s walking. It was such a pleasure to get back onto Dartmoor once again. I realise now that this bus that serves Okehampton and beyond is an extremely convenient means for me to get onto the moor. I think I need to plan some more walks based upon this bus route.
Previous occasion on which I’ve walked this way:
*** 13 Dartmoor Throwleigh – Flickr photo album of walk on 29th January 2006. This is pre-GPS (or my ownership of GPS), and also in a pre-blogging time, so just some scattered photos to view.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 14.9 km / 9.3 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 17min
Stopped Time: 40min
Total Ascent: 380 metres
Maximum Elevation: 553 metres
Buses: S, 6A & H
Exeter Dayrider Plus bus ticket: £6.00 (purchased on first bus of the day)
Read, and inwardly digested. looks like a great walk. waved to you the other day whilst you were crossing Topsham Rd. ( Cremetorium.... Ludwell Vally Park ) but you were miles away.....LOL. Keep up the blog.....Tiz Ansum me lod butte !!
ReplyDeleteYes, it was a very enjoyable walk. Dartmoor was looking fantastic; so quiet and peaceful on the moor. Sorry I missed you the other day. I was probably concerned about my safety, if I was attempting to cross Topsham Road.
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