29 August – 2016 – Trip: Round Robin, Paignton, Totnes and Dartmouth (27.6 Miles)

Synopsis: A trip by bus, boat and steam train. Plus train journey between Exeter and Paignton. Includes a visit to Totnes Castle (EH). A lot to see, and tremendous variety too, all with little exertion.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

For some time now I’ve had in mind the idea of doing the Round Robin of the Dartmouth Steam Railway and River Boat Company. And, today, finally, it is the day to give it a whirl. My sister-in-law Christine suggested we do a trip out with Mum, and this is what I suggested we do. Mum is not very mobile these days. so that proves very limiting in terms of what we can do together. A significant element of the Round Robin trip is spent merely enjoying the ride, whether that be bus, boat or train, so that makes it ideal for the elderly (such as Mum) or lethargic (that’s me!).

[Paignton]: Our open-top bus waits for us to board at the bus station

Our journey from our home town of Exeter we did by rail from our local station (see below for details). Although I’d booked the round robin tour online, it was necessary for me to pick up our tickets from the booking office that is situated in the stream train station at Paignton. It’s just around the corner from the branch line station, and I had a clear thirteen minutes before our bus was due to depart (10:00). Christine and Mum made their way to the bus depot whilst I collected our tickets. The ticket collection was easy and efficient, so I had no trouble making it back in time for our bus departure.

Mum and Christine riding on the bus from Paignton to Totnes

And so, the first leg of our Round Robin today, a bus journey between Paignton and Totnes. I had the option of choosing to go the other way round, starting with a steam train to Kingswear, but I opted for this route instead. The journey was by open-top bus, and we sat on the top, which made this a pleasant ride in the hazy sunshine through glorious Devon countryside. It’s only a short haul from Paignton to Totnes, taking just 25 minutes to the town centre. The bus travels by way of Steamer Quay in Totnes, which is where the boat for Dartmouth departs, but our boat wasn’t due for another three hours, so we had time to spare in Totnes.

[Totnes]: Church of St Mary (Listed Grade I) [Historic England List]. The glorious stone rood screen

We strolled at a leisurely pace up Totnes Fore Street and on to High Street. The road climbs steadily, first towards the arch that spans the road (that always makes Totnes easy to identify in photos), and then to the Church of St Mary (Listed Grade I). We took a little time out to look around the interior of this church. The church has a fine stone screen and pulpit.

Returning to the street we continued up the hill, along the Butter Walk, turning into Castle Street, before, not surprisingly, we discovered the entrance to Totnes Castle (EH). Mum took a quick look at the castle but decided the climb to it would be too much, so she found a bench near the entrance to sit whilst Christine and I explored.

[Totnes]: Totnes Castle (EH) [English Heritage]

The castle is of the classic Norman motte and bailey type. The stone walls of both the motte and the bailey standing very much as they always have. There is quite a steep climb up stone steps to reach the entrance to the motte. I mentioned to Christine the fact that my first visit to this castle was on a school history field trip when I would have been about fourteen, something like cough-cough years ago. The castle withstood our school’s invasion really well, a true test of strength. Its imposing site overlooking the town of Totnes served the Norman’s intention of subduing the unchecked rampant English.

We reached the courtyard of the motte, which is an open grass space. The only remains of any buildings being a short stretch of foundation of one of the walls. We then entered a recess in the wall and climbed a set of stairs to the parapet. It’s possible to walk the entire circumference of the castle wall. In one direction there are views out over Totnes town, in another direction views out over Devon countryside as far as Dartmoor, and in another direction one looks down the River Dart, soon to be our exit route.

[Totnes]: Steamer Quay - our boat, Cardiff Castle

Rejoining Mum on departing Totnes Castle, we then headed towards the railway station. It had been my intention to pick up the path that follows the riverside, but we weren’t making good progress, so instead we walked a slightly shorter route to Morrisons. As we had only a limited amount of time in Totnes and Mum is not too quick on her feet, we settled on having a quick snack lunch in Morrison’s café. This plan worked well, as we had a pleasant and peaceful lunch (arriving 12:00, departing 12:45), leaving us a reasonable amount of time to make our boat departure (13:15) from Steamer Quay.

[Totnes]: Steamer Quay

Just as we arrived at Steamer Quay our boat, the Cardiff Castle, came alongside. We had just time to use the nearby toilets before joining the queue for the boat. This was obviously proving to be a popular trip on this Bank Holiday Monday, as there were many people queued to get on the boat. We chose a bench to sit on on the upper open deck, which would afford us good views.

Sailing on the Cardiff Castle down the River Dart

 

There was a running commentary given by the crew as we sailed. The first stretch of the journey was undertaken very slowly (2-3 knots), as apparently there was only a foot of water under the keel. Boats such as the one we were travelling on today, are only able to sail into and out of Totnes on a high tide. For this reason the sailing times of boats varies from day to day. Once further down river and in deeper water, our speed was quicker (7 knots).

[Sharpham House]: Sailing on the Cardiff Castle down the River Dart

Much of the countryside that we saw from our boat today I was seeing for the first time. There isn’t much of network of public footpaths in the region of the River Dart, therefore this is about the only way to see it. It’s a very peaceful area, with little in the way of human habitation visible. It was nice to get a fleeting view of Sharpham House (Listed Grade I), which is in private ownership, and therefore not generally accessible.

[Dittisham]: The main River Dart front of the village of Dittisham

 

 

Sailing downriver, we passed the villages of Stoke Gabrel and Dittisham. We also passed Greenway Quay that serves Greenway (NT). And, not far from Dartmouth, we passed the paddle steamer Kingswear Castle, the second steamer of this name, headed in the opposite direction to us, upriver to Totnes. The wrecked hull of the first Kingswear Castle we passed on the our way down river.

[Dartmouth]: Sailing on the Cardiff Castle down the River Dart

We disembarked at Dartmouth (14:45), the end of our leg by boat. We could spare a little over an hour in Dartmouth, so we began a leisurely stroll around the town, with a high priority given to getting ice creams. Well! why not? We began our stroll at the Royal Avenue Gardens, and then followed Fairfax Place/Lower Street, the main shopping thoroughfare of the town, until we came upon our desired objective, the ice cream shop. Upon purchasing aforementioned ice creams, we found a bench on the quay to enjoy our indulgence whilst taking in the view, and watching children (and their parents) crabbing.

[Dartmouth]: Bayard's Cove

We had a little time to spare, so we walked down to Bayards Cove before returning to the quay. From the quay we caught the passenger ferry (16:05) that would take us across the River Dart from Dartmouth to Kingswear, which is only a mere five minute trip. We cut it a bit fine, as our train was due to depart at 16:25. I did think the train would be busy, especially with it being a Bank Holiday, but it was easy to find seats on a carriage. There were quite a number of people travelling on this train, but they were comfortably catered for.

Mum and Christine on the steam train that will take us from Kingswear to Paignton

 

Our steam train pulled into the steam railway station at Paignton (17:05) from where we made our way to the adjacent branch line railway station (17:15). Our train to take us back to Exeter arrived punctually (17:26) and we were soon being whisked in the direction of Exeter, arriving punctually back at our local station (18:34).

 

 

It being a Bank Holiday meant the supermarket was closed. So, as on a previous occasion, we settled upon KFC, since it was nearby and extremely convenient. Using the drive-in counter, we were in and out in a matter of just a few minutes, and on our way back to Mum’s for our supper. A fine way to end a most enjoyable day. Just as I hoped, we had found that this Round Robin trip does indeed make for a fine excursion to do with anyone that has limited mobility. We had really enjoyed our trip today, during which we had crammed in visits to a lot of beautiful places. The trip had provided so much variety, and all within a single-day package. As someone once said, ‘What a Diff'rence a Day Made’.

Trip Statistics:

Total Distance: 44.3 km / 27.6 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 50min
Stopped Time: 1hr 59min
Total Ascent: 379 metres
Maximum Elevation: 124 metres

Buses: 100 (open-top bus from Paignton to Totnes, part of the Round Robin ticket)
Trains: Digby & Sowton to Paignton – off-peak day return with Devon & Cornwall Railcard: £4.90
…… Normal ticket price, without railcard discount (33%) would have been: £7.40

Train out: 08:43 – 09:47 (1hr 04mins) – change at Exeter, St David’s
Train return: 17:26 – 18:34 (1hrs 08mins) – no changes

06 August 2016 - Cycle: Exeter, Seven Churches (29.0 Miles)

Synopsis: A cycle ride north of Exeter taking in seven churches. A number of the churches were open which made for a pleasant bonus. One short section walked along footpath. Warm and sunny day.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

Statistics and tracklog overlay on Open Street Map (OSM) and Open Cycle Map (OCM) Runtastic

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

When is a repeat not a repeat? Answer: when it’s almost the same, but not quite. In this case, today’s bicycle ride shares a lot of similarities with the ride 24 April 2014 - Cycle: Exe Valley churches (22.8 Miles) of a little over two years ago. Today’s ride included seven churches (all listed Grade I), whereas the previous cycle ride was a different route and included six churches. Only one of the churches visited today was a repeat visit, that of Netherexe Church, which I just had to visit again, it being so quaint. I also rode this way, stopping briefly at Upton Pyne Church, on cycle ride 6th April 2015 [Runtastic].

This is the water conduit in Broad Clyst

My cycle route to Broadclyst is one I’ve cycled many a time, as a trip to Killerton House (NT) makes a pleasant outing by bike for me. The route is a cycleway that runs along the path for most of the way, making it a safe cycle, even if it does follow a busy road. At Broadclyst the recommended cycle route that I followed detours from the main road onto country lanes that sweep around past Marker’s Cottage (NT) into the centre of the village by the old water conduit.

At one time water conduits like this one would have been relatively commonplace about Devon, but now most have been removed. These, or village pumps, would have been the communal water source for communities. In some instances water from such a conduit would be made available during certain hours of the day. I believe this conduit in Broad Clyst was fed by a pump situated at nearby Clyston Mill (NT) - [National Trust].

Broadclyst Church (Parish Church of St John the Baptist (Listed Grade I))

 

 

 

And so, on to church #1, the Parish Church of St John the Baptist (Listed Grade I), Broadclyst. I should mention at this juncture that this outing of mine is a busy trip and that I don’t do justice to any of these beautiful churches. I manage only a fleeting visit to each. The fact that each church is listed grade I indicates that all are deserving of more time than I give them today.

This parish church in Broadclyst is, in terms of size, architectural quality, and elegance, perhaps the grandest church of those that I visit today. Few parish churches in Devon exceed it in that capacity (Ottery St Mary and Crediton are notable exceptions). I find that even the more modern stained glass has been executed with high craftsmanship and style.

 

Clyston Mill (NT) - [National Trust]

Back pedalling, I passed Clyston Mill (NT), but only paused briefly for a photo before continuing on. I was following the cycle trail that’s been laid between Broadclyst and Killerton House. It’s a great trail, if a little lumpy in places. I made my way along the drive and over to the chapel at Killerton House, my church #2. Feeling peckish (it was now 14:30), I decided to have my lunch before entering the chapel. There was a conveniently placed bench in the shade just outside the chapel, and that I made my lunch stop. It was idyllic.

Killerton (NT) - [National Trust]

My church #2, the Chapel of Holy Evangelists (Listed Grade I), Killerton House, near Broadclyst, is a relatively plain and simple affair, deemed to be in the Norman style. What interior decoration there is, has a certain understated elegance about it. I particularly like the stained glass windows that form a semi-circle high above the altar. As a place of quiet contemplation, the chapel, to my mind, serves its purpose well.

 

There is a path that I was able to pick up near the rear of the chapel. This path (not shown on Ordnance Survey, but visible on Open Cycle Map (OCM) – [Runtastic] leads down to Ellerhayes Bridge. Near the bridge I picked up a footpath that took me across fields and over a railway line (see my note below) to join a lane that led me into Silverton. There was quite a buzz in the village, which I was informed was the noise from a ‘market festival’ taking place in the village square today.

Silverton Church (Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin (Listed Grade I))

And so for church #3, the Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin (Listed Grade I), Silverton. As you enter this church its appearance strikes one as not what is expected. The bright whitewashed wall and open space of the church are not typical village church. One of the most pleasing things to find is the large west gallery still in place, although deemed unsafe to enter by a fellow I chatted with in the church. And one rather unusual item in the church is its hudd, a hooded box in which the priest stood on rainy days whilst conducting a burial service; lucky him!

Rewe Church (The Parish Church of St Mary (Listed Grade I))

 

I had a little bit of cycling to do now, to reach church #4, The Parish Church of St Mary (Listed Grade I), at Rewe. The countryside was looking at its prime this summer’s day, the land around here forming a very typical Devon country scene, although thankfully not so hilly as it can be.

 

I wasn’t expecting this church to be open. It’s tiny and quaint, but I didn’t think many people would care to stop on their hurried way through the village of Rewe. But, I was in luck, their was a lady in the church doing some flower arranging, and she didn’t mind my looking around. Inside, the church is dark and small, much more in keeping with what one might expect of a Devon village church. It felt exceptionally cosy. It has an excellent carved wood ceiling. And the pulpit if also noteworthy.

Netherexe Church (Netherexe Parish Church (Listed Grade I))

Into the lanes again and eventually picking up a dirt track my church ‘'#5, Netherexe Parish Church (Listed Grade I) came into sight across the field. And that’s what makes this church so special: there it sits, all on its own, in the middle of a field. For me it represents the origins of what most churches must have been, places for congregation of worshippers dotted about the countryside. This is the one church that I had visited on my previous cycle ride, mentioned earlier in this post. It was a must visit for me today.

 

Thorveton Church (Church of St Thomas of Canterbury (Listed Grade I))

Next came a certain amount of cycling in the wrong direction, away from Exeter that is, which got me to church #6, the Church of St Thomas of Canterbury (Listed Grade I), at Thorveton. As I entered the village it struck me how picturesque the place is, the quintessential Devon village. A number of the pavements are still cobbled. As I approached the church I could hear quite a commotion. Apparently there had been a singing event organised to commemorate the 40th wedding anniversary of the publican and his wife. That was lucky for me, as I could enter the church and look around.

The church, rather like Silverton, is quite large and bright inside with its whitewashed walls. Even the reredos and the pulpit are made of a light coloured stone, and the ceiling is painted the light blue of a summer sky, most welcome sight I should think on a winter’s day. There is a small west gallery above the central aisle. The church bier was parked here. The church has a greater feeling of opulence than that at Silverton. There are some interestingly carved stone bosses in the vaulting of the porch.

Upton Pyne Church (The Parish Church of Our Lady (Listed Grade I))

I was tiring physically at this point, and yet I had one more church to visit, church #7, The Parish Church of Our Lady (Listed Grade I), at Upton Pyne. Thankfully I was headed in the direction of Exeter. I was particularly keen to visit this church, since I had read an eulogy for the church in a book of Devon churches, and I was interested to see the church for myself. I’ve taken an extract from the book and attached it as part of the description to this photo on Flickr.

 

The first thing that strikes one about this church is how quaintly and unostentatiously the church is situated in the old area of the village, off the village square, a little from the lane through the village, surrounded by picturesque thatched cottages. One is immediately transported to another time long ago.

The church is described as something of a hotch-potch, but a lovely hotch-potch at that. Sometimes one has to see further than the mere architectural value and just perceive a sense of the overall charm and quaintness of a place, and I think that’s what is required here. Dotted all around the church are, not surprisingly, monuments to the Northcote family, the most eminent family of this area. You’ll find a statue to Stafford Henry Northcote in Northernhay Gardens, in Exeter. I always think of this family as those we have to be thankful to for our water. For it was the Northcotes who gave up (presumably at a price) some of their land for the building of Upton Pyne Water Treatment Works, through which all the city’s water supply passes.

There is a nice long downhill ride out of Upton Pyne, which was just what I needed at this stage to get me on my way. I then had to cycle a rather busy road from Cowley into the back of Exwick which I wasn’t looking forward to. But, on entering Exwick, I picked up a path that took me down to the cycle trail that follows the flood relief channel. From here to home it was relatively level pleasant traffic-free cycling, a route I know very well.

It had been a thoroughly enjoyable day’s cycling. Setting an objective of visiting churches gives one a purpose to the ride, and I find that adds to the pleasure of cycling. And its pleasing to find such quiet unspoilt countryside right on the doorstep of my hometown of Exeter. Who needs a car anyway? And only one church was locked (Netherexe); was I just lucky?

For further reading on the churches I visited today, I recommend examining the description from each church’s listing:

1. Broadclyst Church (Parish Church of St John the Baptist (Listed Grade I)) – (Hoskins)
2. Killerton House Chapel (Chapel of Holy Evangelists (Listed Grade I)) – (Hoskins)
3. Silverton Church (Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin (Listed Grade I)) – (Hoskins)
4. Rewe Church (The Parish Church of St Mary (Listed Grade I)) – (Hoskins)
5. Netherexe Church (Netherexe Parish Church (Listed Grade I)) – (Hoskins)
6. Thorveton Church (Church of St Thomas of Canterbury (Listed Grade I)) – (Hoskins)
7. Upton Pyne Church (The Parish Church of Our Lady (Listed Grade I)) – (Hoskins)

Note 1: As mentioned in the blog post heading, there was one section of today’s cycle of about 0.5 km in length that was along a footpath which had to be walked. It is a section of today’s route just north of Killerton. This section involved me humping my bike over three stiles and crossing a railway line. If you are thinking of following my route today but would prefer not to hump bikes over stiles or cross a railway line, there is an easy alternative route into Silverton along the lane that runs by Killerton House.

Note 2: I used the web site Outdoor Active to plot the route of this cycle ride. I’ve only recently become a registered member of this web site, and this is the first time I’ve used the site to plot a cycle route. It uses Open Cycle Maps which are highly detailed, although public rights of way aren’t shown. Once plotted, I ported the route to the GeoMeterPro app recently installed on my Windows smartphone (note: there is a Universal Windows Platform (UWP) version of this app for Windows 10 phones). My smartphone, linked to an auxiliary battery, provided my on-bike GPS navigation for today’s ride.

Cycle Statistics:

Total Distance: 46.7 km / 29.0 miles
Elapsed Time: 7hrs 4min
Total Ascent: 489 metres
Maximum Elevation: 91 metres

Buses: (none)