Monday 29 April 2013

29 April 2013 - Walk: Exeter to Exmouth, via Woodbury Salterton (22.8 Miles)

Synopsis: The Longest Day. Well, not quite, but the longest walk for quite some time, as part of training for Sarsen Trail walk this Sunday. Although ostensibly a training exercise, this proved a very nice walk.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
Exeter to Exmouth 019Exeter to Exmouth 026Exeter to Exmouth 050Exeter to Exmouth 084Exeter to Exmouth 085Exeter to Exmouth 093(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

This was another of my ‘training’ walks, in that it formed part of my preparations for the Sarsen Trail walk I’m undertaking on Sunday. And yes, that explains the distance, which is somewhat more than I’ve done in a long while. Although it might seem a daunting walk, today was really very enjoyable, and I came through it with nothing more than a small blister on my little toe. Just goes to show, there’s life in the old dog yet.

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Picturesque cottage with Monkey Puzzle tree

My plan was to get to Exmouth by walking over Woodbury Common. From Exmouth my intention was to catch the train home. From home I was walking along busy traffic filled streets until I passed under the M5 motorway when I picked up a lane taking me in the direction of Sowton village. Once in this lane there was only the distant hum of the motorway to disturb the quiet and beauty of the countryside.

 

 

 

The calm of the countryside descended on me as I walked the lanes in the sunshine. I glimpsed through the hedgerow Bishop's Court, not an easy place to photograph as it's not possible to get close to it. Bishop's Court is Grade I Listed and from the listing I read that it's "... now serving in part as a company HQ." It's such an impressive and important building and it's well situated so close to Exeter, I've always been surprised that it's virtually unknown since it's not open to the public. Take a look at its listing entry and it's easy to see just how important a building it is.


After crossing a number of fields I joined a lane and followed this all the way to the main road near Crealy Great Adventure Park. I had to walk a short stretch of this road which wasn’t at all pleasant as it is so busy. There’s a grass verge for most of the way, but it’s not a lot of fun. There could be another way through the Hill Barton Business Park that would bring you out opposite Crealy, but I haven’t verified that.

I followed a lane that passed by the entrance to Crealy Great Adventure Park. Seeing the place again after a number of years absence brought back memories of times spent here with my two daughters. They’re a little too old for such things these days. The lane passed Crealy Meadows caravan park and took me down to a stream, or is that brook?

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Footbridge over Grindle Brook

On the OS map a footbridge over Grindle Brook is shown, which is quite correct, but the problem is that what I think was once a step up to it has collapsed, presumably eroded by the rains. A bit of effort was required to climb onto the bridge, but the bridge itself seemed sound enough.

 

 

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Des res - well, with a bit of work

 

 

A path meanders beside the stream a short distance, and then led me past some farm buildings. There I saw this delightful old cottage, in need of some renovation. I’m quite sure it must have been a lovely picture to behold at one time, but now, as you can see, it’s been left to rack and ruin. The next house I passed, just a little way up the hill, was in a different state altogether.

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Woodbury Common

 

 

Following lanes once again I was soon passing through the delightful village of Woodbury Salterton and beginning my ascent to Woodbury Common. This was to be my one reasonably significant climb of the day. Once on the common the vista changed completely. It was by now a little after 1pm, so I found a spot to sit and eat a quick lunch, with the emphasis on quick.

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Woodbury Common - view to the coast

 

 

After lunch I followed a track across the common that took me to a firing notice. I had seen the ‘danger area’ markings on the map but had decided to ignore them in in my planning in the hope there wouldn’t be any firing today, which as the flags weren’t flying, there evidently wasn’t. What I would have done if there had been, I suppose could have been either: (1) keep my head down, or (2) detour around the firing range.

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Colaton Raleigh parish church

 

Descending gradually I approached Colaton Raleigh. It has a lovely church in a very picturesque setting. Under normal walking conditions I’d pause to look around, but today I merely took a snap and headed on my way.

 

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River Otter - landslip

 

 

 

It wasn’t long before I picked up the course of the River Otter. A scene of numerous floods this winter just gone by. Today the water babbled gently and looked very tranquil. I did see evidence of the winter storms in this large landslide fallen into the river.

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Budleigh Salterton - beach

 

 

Easy walking along the banks of the River Otter saw me swiftly into Budleigh Salterton. Everyone looked to be taking their leisurely pleasure in the sun, eating ice creams and basking in the sun. I marched through on my mission, and was soon climbing steadily up the cliffs to the west of the town.

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Sandy Bay - Devon Cliffs - Beach Comber

 

 

I passed the Devon Cliffs caravan park where I once worked for a while. They’ve replaced the old Beach Comber café with a smart new modern facility, a vast improvement on what went before. Here the coastal path rather oddly follows a course through the tables of the café, but I guess a right-of-way is a right-of-way, whichever way you look at it.

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Exmouth - tulips

 


I was up on the cliffs I knew so well from the days I worked at Devon Cliffs, for I had trudged them morning and night whilst doing my stint as a lifeguard on one of the swimming pools. I felt I was on my homeward straight by now. I stuck to the high path at Orcombe Point, coming down to beach level near the new RNLI lifeboat station. Exmouth seafront was looking quite pretty at this time, decked out in tulips of various colours.

Well, there you have it, all 22.8 miles of it. I was reasonably pleased with my timing on this walk, which I think is just about quick enough for the Sarsen Trail. And as previously said, the day was a lot more enjoyable than I thought it was going to be. Plus the fact that I was feeling quite chuffed with myself, having proven that after all these years, I’m still up to it, just.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 22.8 miles
Moving Time: 7hrs 07min
Stopped Time: 40min
Total Ascent: 607 metres
Maximum Elevation: 177 metres

Buses: (none)
Train: Exmouth to Digby & Sowton (Off peak single - £3.30)

Saturday 27 April 2013

27 April 2013 - Walk: Buckland Beacon, Dartmoor (7.1 Miles)

Synopsis: A welcome return to Dartmoor after some time away. A pause for reflection whilst viewing the Ten Commandments on Buckland Beacon. Expansive views on the approach to Bonehill Rocks.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
Buckland Beacon, Dartmoor 011Buckland Beacon, Dartmoor 014Buckland Beacon, Dartmoor 039Buckland Beacon, Dartmoor 052Buckland Beacon, Dartmoor 060Buckland Beacon, Dartmoor 066(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

A day for beautiful clouds, that’s how today seemed. A good deal of sunshine and yet a wafts of candy floss floating across the sky, which is actually what makes the perfect sky for taking photographs. The wind was very chill with temperatures not exceeding a cool 11°C all day, with the added pleasure of a hail shower whilst lunching at Bonehill Rocks.

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Parked at Hemsworthy Gate - Rippon Tor in the background

Inspiration for this walk is derived from the walk Buckland Beacon from the excellent Divine Dartmoor Walks by Gillian Adams. Gillian’s described walk is however only a distance of 2 miles and I hoped to do a little more than that. I used the theme of Gillian’s walk to Buckland Beacon to start my walk, and from there I plotted a loop back to Bonehill Rocks, resulting in a total distance of 7.1 miles. Combined with a travel time by car from home of only 30 minutes, this was the perfect walk for today. I parked at Hemsworthy Gate, just below Rippon Tor, and set out across level moorland from there.

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Buckland Beacon - expansive view across Dartmoor


On reaching Buckland Beacon what first struck me was the spectacular sweeping views of Dartmoor there are to be had from this high vantage point. What makes the views rather unusual is the diversity of what can be seen, in that open moorland, forest and fields are all visible from this one location. The views have a grandeur that the small outcrop of granite which caps the summit does not prepare you for.


 

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Buckland Beacon - Ten Commandments

I sought out the Ten Commandments granite tablets just to the south of the beacon. The engraved words I found to be of the same colour as the surrounding granite so it was a little difficult to make out what was inscribed. I haven’t been able to make an exact transcription of what I saw but after a little Internet research I have attached to my photos in Flickr what I believe to be the approximate content of these stones. Quite who (or what) the intended audience of these words was I do not know. I felt the intended consumption to be ‘civilisation’, and yet out here amidst the wild Dartmoor hills, it is nature and not the supernatural that dominates.

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Track descending to Ruddycleave Water

From the summit of Buckland Beacon I meandered my way through heather and gorse till I came upon the gateway to a track that would take me off the open moorland. The track was rather boulder strewn and hard going. The leafless trees that line the track a harsh reminder that winter is not long gone from here on Dartmoor.

 

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Bowden

 


At the end of the track I crossed Ruddycleave Water, a small babbling brook of crystal clear water. Just up from the brook is the wonderfully rustic Bowden cluster of buildings. Built from granite they have the substantial look necessary to survive in the often bleak and desolate moorland landscape. Today it just looked rustic and picturesque bathed in sunshine.

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Tunhill Rocks - natural cave in the rocks

 

From here I began a gentle ascent first along a track and then out onto open moorland once again. I was now headed for Tunhill Rocks. I came upon a small natural cave created from slabs of granite. If one had to hunker down in a storm, this would make as good a shelter as any one is likely to find here on Dartmoor.

 

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Pil Tor

 

 

The upwards trudge continued, now in the direction of the rather unusual looking Pil Tor. I say unusual because it appears to have had a slice cut out of the middle of it.

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Top Tor - a very young foal, quite unsteady on its legs

 

 

 

My next tor, visible a short distance away from Pil Tor, was Top Tor. I was most distracted by the tiniest of foals that could hardly walk. I think it had only just come into the world as it was most unsteady on its feet, and I think residue of the afterbirth was still visible on its coat. It blinked as if accustoming itself to the light. I was wary of alarming baby or mother, but I hung around for a bit and quietly snapped a few photos. I have to say this had more meaning for me than the Ten Commandments.

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Bonehill Rocks

 

 

My final tor was just a short walk from Pil Tor and took me only a matter of minutes to reach it, if for no other reason than I was very hungry by now. With a stiff chill wind blowing I nestled down in the lee of Bonehill Rocks to eat my lunch. This is one of the tors that I’d occasionally bring my daughters to when they were young, as there are a lot of easy fun climbs on it.


That just about concluded my walk. From Bonehill Rocks I belted along a strip of moor following a road back to where I’d parked my car. The walk had served its purpose in giving me some exercise to keep me in trim for my upcoming big walk. Read all about that in a later post.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 7.1 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 41min
Stopped Time: 18min
Total Ascent: 412 metres
Maximum Elevation: 432 metres

Buses: (none)

Friday 12 April 2013

12 April 2013 – Trip: Montacute House (NT), Somerset

Synopsis: A trip out to Montacute House (NT) for Mum, sister-in-law Christine and myself. We arrived in time for lunch in the café at Montacute House. A fascinating house that contains much of interest.

 
Montacute House 009Montacute House 019Montacute House 025Montacute House 048Montacute House 070Montacute House 093(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

So, what do the Roaring Twenties, silent movies, and It girls have to do with Montacute House? As it’s an Elizabethan manor house one might easily suppose very little, but there is a connection, which if you haven’t fathomed it, you’ll find the answer revealed later in this post.

The plan was to arrive at Montacute House (NT) at around midday and have lunch in the café at the property, and this is what we did. We approached along the streets of the incredibly attractive village of Montacute. After passing through reception we immediately sought out the café which we found to be almost over brimming with people. It isn’t very large and there were no takers for the picnic tables in the courtyard on this cool damp lunchtime. We did find a table and the food served we found to be first rate. By 13:00 we were primed and ready to begin our tour of the house.

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Great Hall - husband gets the Skimmington Ride

The visit started in the great hall of the house. This oak panelled room has an upper frieze on which is hung numerous portraits of members of the Phelips family who built and owned the house for about 300 years. On one of the side walls is a huge plaster frieze which purports to be the story of a husband having a drink whilst he should have been minding the baby. His wife has him demanded be be given the Skimmington Ride which is a treatment designed to humiliate him by having him paraded around the the village sat rather uncomfortably on a pole.

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The Parlour - chest made out of Cyrpess, 1570-1600

 

In the next room we visited there is a carved chest that was crafted out of Cypress 1570 - 1600. Hands have worn smooth the carvings on the lid of the chest, testimony to its use through the years. On the front of the chest however the carvings remain very distinct, appearing much as when originally carved.

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Tapestry: Gobelins tapestry "The Hunter" by Neilson, dated 1788

 

 

In this same room is this sumptuous tapestry. The subject matter and the colours are quite different to what is typical for tapestries. It’s an ethereal composition created in vivid colours.

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The Library (or previously "The Great Chamber")

 

 


The next room we visited was the library. As is so often the case with libraries, this is a room of quietness suggestive of relaxed repose over a good book. A number of the windowpanes (centre of photo) have been engraved with poetry.

 

The fireplace in the library amused me. It has two nooks on either side which I was fairly sure would have held sculptures at one time, and lo and behold there is a picture that confirmed my suspicions. The picture, to be found on the left of the fireplace, shows two nudes in the niches which obviously were too explicit for Victorian tastes, and unfortunately have been removed. I determined to put them back. Well, at least in my photo, with the aid of a little help from Photoshop Elements. Below you’ll find to the left the original photo showing how the fireplace looks today, and to the right how it would appear if the ‘offending’ sculptures were placed back in their place as originally intended. I leave it for you to decide which of these you find most satisfying.

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The fireplace censored by the Victorians
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The fireplace uncensored by the Victorians
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Bath concealed in a Jacobean-style cupboard in Lord Curzon's bedroom

I just loved this. An early take on the concept of en-suite. In Lord Curzon’s bedroom we came across this bath that has been inserted into a ‘Jacobean-style’ cupboard. Obviously a man who liked his creature comforts. We came upon no other bathroom, so how guests managed I leave to your imagination.

 

 

 

 

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Bedroom - Portrait: Elinor Glyn (author, interior decorator, and mistress)

In one of the bedrooms is a painting of a lady by the name of Elinor Glyn. She was apparently the mistress of Lord Curzon, one time tenant at Montacute House. She assisted with some aspects of the interior design of the house which Lord Curzon was modernising with a view to making the house a more comfortable place to live. Elinor Glyn was an author of ‘racy’ novels and worked in Hollywood as a ‘scriptwriter for silent movies’. I know, that takes some figuring. If you’re interested in exploring the novels of Elinor Glyn, follow the links on the novel list attached to this photo of her books at Montacute House. A brief history of Montacute’s Tigress is available on the BBC web site.

I had previously come across mention of Elinor Glyn the authoress in a series of television programmes about the 20s and 30s entitled the Glamour’s Golden Age. Glyn authored a book called ‘It’ in 1927. From that novel: “To have ‘It’, the fortunate possessor must have that strange magnetism which attracts both sexes… In the animal world ‘It’ demonstrates in tigers and cats — both animals being fascinating and mysterious, and quite unbiddable.”  I do think the phrase It Girl has been rather misappropriated in our time as today it seems to be an appellation for anyone that evokes a modicum of media attention by their wayward antics. I suppose that’s the problem with ‘mass media’. A biography of Elinor Glyn, The Woman Who Wore Her Cat as a Collar: The Adventures of Elinor Glyn, has been written by Marleen Hacquoil. There is a lovely story of a wild party at Hillersdon House, Devon, attended by Elinor Glyn, where young men who’d swum in the lake, were subsequently bathed down in tubs of champagne.

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The film It staring Clara Bow, a production by Elinor Glyn & Clarence Badger

In 1927 Glyn helped to make a star of Hollywood actress Clara Bow for whom she coined the sobriquet “the It girl”. This was the beginnings of the phrase It Girl that we use today. She effectively popularised the concept of It. I first came across the origins of the It Girl whilst watching the excellent “Glamour’s Golden Age” documentary series from the BBC. The programmes explore how the concept of glamour, as something other than beauty, entered the public consciousness during the 20s and 30s.

So, there you have it: Montacute House’s connection with the Roaring Twenties.

 

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The Long Gallery

After the bedrooms on the first floor there was one more floor to climb whereupon we found ourselves in the Long Gallery. This gallery, that runs the full width of the house, and is the longest of its kind in England, was apparently the place to come to exercise on days when the weather was inclement. At one time large oak beams spanned the breadth of the gallery but those were removed by Lord Curzon during his modernising programme, and are now replaced with slim metal poles painted white. The walls do bow slightly outward from the force of the roof, but hopefully this has been stabilised.

The gallery space is used to display painting in a collaboration between the National Portrait Gallery and the National Trust. It’s a splendid partnership, since the paintings are very well displayed and made accessible to so many more people than might otherwise see them. There are numerous important people from history portrayed in the paintings, for example Queen Elizabeth I and Sir Walter Raleigh.

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An 18th century silver epergne - Montacute House blog

We descended the stone staircase and made our way to the dining room. There on the table an item caught my attention, sitting right at its centre. I asked the steward about it, and she happily explained that the 18th century silver epergne, which was the correct name for it, was one of the few items in the house that although once lost, happened to be recovered from an auction by someone who recognised it as representing the ‘hearth’ of the Phelips family crest. Their family motto being: Pro Aris et Focis (Hearth and Home). And indeed, the silver epergne displays the flame arising from the hearth as can be seen in the family crest above the fireplace. I do like such connections.

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One of two summer houses

From the dining room we exited the house via the rear door into the formal gardens at the back of the house. The weather had picked up and the sun was shining brightly, which was perfect timing for our stroll around the garden. We headed first for the summer houses at the two furthest corners of the formal garden. Apparently the gentlemen would congregate here after dinner to smoke cigars and drink port.

 

 

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Montacute House. It’s both a wonderful Elizabethan manor without, and a wide ranging collection of rooms and furnishings within. The display of portraits from the National Portrait Gallery collection added considerable interest to our visit. A highly recommended place to visit.

For further information on this property I recommend the Montacute House Blog which contains various little snippets that expand upon the scant information about the house provided on the main National Trust web site.

We rounded off the day with Tesco ready meals and wine at Mum’s. And then we watched the new Great Expectations film streamed on Mum’s television. The wonders of technology.

If you’re sat there pondering whether you’ve got that all important and ephemeral ‘It’, perhaps you should take a closer look at the film It.

To the right is the Paramount film poster for the film It released in 1927. Note the accreditation to Elinor Glyn.

A YouTube video named "Clara Bow - She's Got It" that shows excerpts from the film can be found below. The whole film is available in 7-parts on YouTube, and I do feel it has a very worthy quality. What I find particularly amusing is that Elinor Glyn makes a cameo appearance in the film (part 3/7) as herself, explaining what ‘It’ is.


http://youtu.be/Dxo_99eaEEA

And if you still can’t get enough of It, perhaps you’d like to watch “Hollywood’s Lost Screen Goddess Clara Bow”, from the BBC, 2012, available from YouTube. About 2 minutes into this documentary It pops up in the guise of Elinor Glyn, once again.

Margot Asquith: Britain's most colourful 'first lady'
Margot Asquith: Britain's most colourful 'first lady' (subtitled: The It Girl in No 10) © BBC

And one final word to add reality to the subject: thought by some to have been a real life It Girl of her time, this is a picture of Margot Asquith, wife of Herbert Henry Asquith, Home Secretary at the time of their marriage in 1894, later to become prime minister. Margot was described as a celebrity by at least one contemporary magazine, she has been compared to our present day Pippa Middleton, maid of honour at her sister's wedding to Prince William.

I have to say, looking at her rather dour countenance in this picture, she hardly conjures to mind the fun loving exuberance of the party girl. But I suspect this was a pose, perhaps put on to douse the vilifications of her critics who questioned her morality. A case of the public and private images not quite being in alignment, and with public opinion often so fickle, who would deign find fault with that?

I have a feeling the private Margot might have been rather an amusing and interesting person to meet. The public Margot, I might have chosen to give a wide berth.

Drive Statistics (Exeter to Montacute House):

Total Distance: 43 miles
Moving Time: 58min