Synopsis: A popular destination, Wistman’s Wood, as evidenced by the number of walkers headed that way. Having said that, Dartmoor generally was having a very busy day. Good walk though!
I woke up this morning with no particular walk in mind so needed to hastily come up with a walk plan. I’d recently come across a web site named Divine Dartmoor Walks that a lady by the name Gillian Adams authors. I’ve not tried a walk from this blog, but thought I’d give one a go, and settled on Wistman’s Wood and Longaford Tor, a medium distance walk of about 5 miles.
Parked up and ready for walk
I couldn’t park in the quarry car park by Two Bridges that Gillian recommends, there were just too many cars, indicative of just how busy Dartmoor has become these days, and that’s before Spielberg has had his opportunity to put it on the map. I settled for a lay-by at the top of the hill, merely a couple hundred metres away.
West Dart River - Wistman's Wood
There are said to be three primeval oak groves on Dartmoor, of which Wistman’s Wood is probably the best known. The other two are Black Tor Copse and Piles Copse, both of which are also worth seeking out. “Their history has been the subject of much ecological speculation. The most likely explanation is that these woods are remnants of the original forest cover which have survived in modified form for various reasons in sites on granite soils which can be better tolerated by pendunculate oak than by sessile oak. Today, they are heavily grazed but full of epiphytic lichens and ferns, mosses, gnarled trees and a mysterious, wild atmosphere.” (from: Dartmoor National Park by John Weir - ISBN: 0863501397).
West Dart River - Wistman's Wood
This is definitely the best approach to Wistman’s Wood. Initially it is seen as a patch of silver against the side of the hill, and on approaching the feathery branches come into relief against the ever changing sky, one moment brooding, the next shooting shafts of bright sunlight across the landscape.
West Dart River - Wistman's Wood - Druid's Stone
There is a large erect stone at the northern tip of Wistman’s Wood that Gillian describes as the Druid’s Stone. I sought this out and believe this is the stone (see photo). I should have sought out the inscription to Buller that Gillian speaks of, but neglected to do that. It’s a fairly substantial stone, which I’ve attempted to illustrate by photographing against one of the oak trees. I presume it has been upended by the Druids for some ritualistic reason.
The OS map shows a number of Pillow Mounds markings in this area. These are artificially built mounds of earth and stone which provided shelter for rabbits which were once reared commercially on Dartmoor’s warren farms.
West Dart River - Weir at head of Devonport Leat – Longaford Tor to the left, Littaford Tor to the right
The ground was very wet underfoot as I approached the weir which was to be my furthest most point on this walk. The weir is at the start of the Devonport Leat, built in the 1790s to convey drinking water to Devonport, Plymouth. I had intended to lunch at this point but there was a brisk chill wind blowing up the valley which was not at all comfortable, so I turned and headed for Longaford Tor, where I hoped to find shelter from the wind.
Views from Longaford Tor - my lunch stop
This was my chosen lunch venue, in the lee of Longaford Tor, and with wide ranging views all around, and the place entirely to myself. A sandwich, yoghurt and a cup of tea was on the menu. What more could a man wish for?
Approaching Littaford Tor
From Longaford Tor I followed a straight-line course along the ridge towards Littaford Tor. This too was pretty squelchy underfoot, but this is typical for Dartmoor at this time of year. As long as you have decent footwear it’s no problem whatsoever.
Comparing my walk retrospectively with the walk that Gillian Adams had done, it was obvious we’d walked at two completely different times of year. Whereas there is a warmth of summer green in Gillian’s photographs, mine were the russet and fawn browns of winter. All I can suggest is whichever it is you prefer, choose your walk date appropriately. I think it is lovely to see the difference the seasons make to the landscape of Dartmoor. On this occasion I do think the winter setting, a time when it is possible to see the gnarled branches of the ancient oaks of Wistman’s Wood, unencumbered with leaves, is a time when the devilry of the place is at its height. A walk in the mist is also good for atmosphere.
I always enjoy escaping to Dartmoor. Because of my recent lack of a car, it’s a place I haven’t got to as often as I’d have liked these last couple of years, but now I have wheels again, … Thankfully no sighting of black hounds or the Old Crockern, just me, the old crock, roaming the hills. My tacit thanks to Gillian for the suggestion of this walk.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 5.2 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 18min
Stopped Time: 26min
Total Ascent: 282 metres
Maximum Elevation: 505 metres
Buses: (none)
