Synopsis: Part of walk followed River Taw. Walk stretched as far north as Cobbaton. Southern loop stretched to Brightley Barton. A section of the walk followed a hollow lane. A hot day’s walking.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
More Tarka Line Walks
This walk is derived from two walks (p.40 & p.42) in the book More Tarka Line Walks by Peter Craske. This book followed upon an earlier publication, not surprisingly titled Tarka Line Walks. I believe that both of these books are now superseded by one bumper book called Tarka Line Walks. I don’t have a copy of this new book, but I would presume that the walks I’ve done today are to be found in it. The walks from these books are intended to be accessed from the Tarka Line. To see other walks from this book that I have completed, use the link under Tags to the right.
In the book that I have there are two walks described from Umberleigh, one of 4.5 miles, the other of 3 miles. I combined both of these walks to form the walk I did today. This is the first time that I have used this book. To see other walks from this book that I complete over time, use the link under Tags to the right.
With temperatures in the high twenties, this may not have been a long walk, but it proved hard going. I was constantly buzzed by insects that seemed to be having a field day. The guidebook mentions ‘mud’, but I can’t think what that was about. I discovered nothing but caked-hard dusty tracks.
Umberleigh Railway Station
After having mapped the walk route and checking train times, and finding the best train for my walk today departed in thirty minutes, I whipped everything I needed into my rucksack and flew out the door. I arrived in time for my train to St Davids, but then found that trains to Barnstaple weren’t running. A replacement coach had been laid on. I actually made Umberleigh in pretty good time, arriving only 20 minutes later than the scheduled train arrival time.
River Taw
Out from Umberleigh my walk followed the River Taw which could be glimpsed between the trees. There was little water running in the shallow river. The path then diverted right and then began a steady climb, quite demanding in today’s heat. For a moment I questioned what it was that I was doing out in this heat.
One of the things that I like about this part of Devon is that it is so quiet. I often get the feeling no one ever comes here. As it happens, that suits me just fine. Even the few houses I passed showed no signs of life.
Looking across the valley of the River Taw
There’s a certain quiet calm about walking in this region. The only downside of this is that, as paths are not so frequently walked, sometimes one can be battling along overgrown tracks, but today all the walking was unhindered and progress straightforward. Having climbed steadily for a while I looked back down the Taw Valley, through the heat haze (yes, heat haze), in the direction I'd just come from Umberleigh.
I’m trying to keep my eyes open on my walks for wildflowers that I don’t recognise, since I wish to expand my recognition of these. Today’s key flower is one that I love very much, the Musk Mallow, of which the hedgerows today contained many specimens. Perhaps it’s the Mallow season. These bright pink flowers radiate their colour from the hedges in which they grow.
The way ahead clear down this green lane
It was a relief to get to the top of the track. I knew from here there would be no more steep climbs on this section of the walk. There wasn’t a lot of respite from the sun but at least the walking was level and easy along wide grass covered green lanes.
Cobbaton Combat Collection
It wasn’t long before I found myself passing Cobbaton Combat Collection. I understand this place, open to the public, contains quite an extensive collection of military vehicles, guns and other combat items, some of which were visible from the lane as I passed by.
Quaint upper-storey cottage
My next problem was going to be where to stop for lunch. I wanted somewhere open so that I might feel a cool breeze on me, but at the same time sheltered from the sun’s rays. Was this a tall order? Obviously not, since I found just the spot over a fence at the corner of a field under the shade of a tree.
At this point I stripped off my trousers and exchanged these for shorts. I needed to walk cooler than I had been. Thank goodness I brought sun cream with me, for my ever so delicate legs. Even the animals in the fields were feeling the heat, all seeking out what shade they could, whether it be under a solitary tree or in the shade of the boundary hedge. It made me realise that our fields today provide very little in the way of shade for our animals.
Path climbs through Pitt Woods
Heading in the direction back towards Umberleigh and making good time I decided that I might well be able to do both walks intended for today and still catch the early train at 15:31 if I was sharp. One way to clip a little time from these walks was to reverse the direction of the second walk, since that would negate the need to drop down into Umberleigh between each walk. This proved a really good plan, since the climb uphill of the second walk was now done in the very welcome shade of Pitt Wood.
Ancient stone cross by the wayside
Not far from Eastcott I passed a stone cross, mentioned in my guide book. Apparently these stone crosses sometimes marked a place of communal meeting for celebration in pre-church days, and rarely signify a grave. Certainly this cross stands proud and lonely beside the road with little around but fields and hedges.
Holloway (or sunken lane) 'an ancient way between earth banks'
Further into my walk I descended what I believe is a holloway, or sunken lane. I’d not come across this term until reading an article Pinnock, Gloucestershire in the English Buildings blog. Although my guide book doesn’t use the term holloway, but instead refers to this as ‘an ancient way between high earth banks’, I’m pretty sure that’s what it must be.
Wheat crop ripening in the sun
Following a level lane, with Umberleigh Railway Station in sight, I passed a field of corn which was just beginning to metamorphose from green to yellow as the crop ripened in the sun. A sure sign that we are now in high summer.
A hot and demanding day’s walking, but very enjoyable all the same. The beaches of Devon may have been packed, the queues for ice creams long, but my day was full of quiet solitude spent in what is perhaps, though rarely seen, the best of Devon. And if lacking in sufficient mud for your liking, I suggest you undertake this walk in winter when I’m quite certain a plentiful supply can be assured.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 8.1 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 57min
Stopped Time: 38min
Total Ascent: 363 metres
Maximum Elevation: 135 metres
Buses: (none)
Trains: Digby & Sowton to St Davids; St Davids to Umberleigh by coach; Umberleigh to St Davids; St Davids to Digby & Sowton
(off-peak day return: £9.50)
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