Thursday, 10 September 2015

10 September 2015 – Trip: Lunch at Lydford Gorge, afternoon in Bude

Synopsis: A trip out with Mum. Stopped at the National Trust car park at Lydford Gorge to have a picnic lunch. Then drove on to Bude, where we took a leisurely stroll. Sun was out and the surf up. Delightful.

 
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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

The weather was set fair for the day so I suggested to Mum we go on a little outing. Whilst Mum waited at home for her Tesco grocery shop to be delivered, I popped over to this same store to pick up provisions for a trip out. We drove out of Exeter heading towards Okehampton, not quite sure where we’d end up. I contemplated driving up to Dartmoor later. In the meantime, we needed a picnic stop. I recalled the car park at the upper end of Lydford Gorge (NT) had picnic tables, and headed there for lunch.

This picnic site at Lydford Gorge car park was a perfect setting for us to eat lunch. I put the kettle on and we were soon tucking into sandwiches and tea. I’d noticed, as we drove up, a road sign indicating the way to Bude, a place I’d contemplated making an excursion to some time back. It was enough to sway us; we decided to make Bude our destination after lunch.

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[Bude]: Saturday's Pit (Swimming Pool - sea water)

On arriving in Bude, we found it looking lovely in the sun. We parked up in the car park, which is virtually down on the beach. It was evidently a popular spot with beach goers and surfers. Mum and I followed a path which took us up a slight incline to the cliffs just above the sea water swimming pool. The surf was up and waves were crashing against rocks at the outer wall of the pool. Youngsters were running the gauntlet along this wall, dodging between the breaking waves, and then jumping from the wall into the pool. It looked like great fun.

Bude, 1933 © Francis Frith
Bude, 1933 © Francis Frith

 

These sea water pools, like this one at Bude, seem to be having something of a renaissance. It was as popular with swimmers today, as it had been in 1933, as can be seen in this photo from the Francis Frith collection. The only significant difference being the lack of changing facilities today, which I presume is what can be seen on the right of this photo. Today, you simply have to maintain a firm grasp on your towel.


From the hilltop we looked out across Summerleaze Beach, which is the main beach at Bude. It’s a picturesque beach location, especially on a beautiful day like today. In the panoramic photo below the entire beach can be seen, with the breakwater visible in the distance. To the right, there is a small café and beach shop providing all the essentials of the seaside, such as buckets, spades, rubber dinghies, etc.

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[Bude]: Panoramic view across Summerleaze Beach to The Storm Tower (Grade II Listed), at Compass Point

If you look very closely at the headland in the distance, you will note a small tower can just be seen. This is known as the Storm Tower at Compass Point. It also has the nickname Temple of Winds, after the temple to be found in Athens, Greece. We didn’t walk out to the headland today, because Mum struggles to walk far. For that reason, I’ve nabbed this historic image from the Francis Frith collection, which is a fine close-up photo of this tower.

It’s my guess that the tower experiences more than its fair share of winds where it is situated.


From Summleaze Beach, we walked back towards town. The walk up the main street looked rather steep, so we settled on just taking the merest glimpse at Blanchminster Square. I’ve compared my photograph below with one from the Francis Frith collection. My view is actually in the opposite direction. To view Blanchminster Square from the direction of the Francis Frith Photo, take a look at this view from Google Street View. The road looks to be in somewhat better condition today.

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[Bude]: Blanchminster Square, a small park in the centre of town
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[Bude]: Bude Canal - Sea Lock, Lock Gates and Hand Winches (Grade II* Listed) - English Heritage List

We then backtracked from Blanchminster Square, crossed The River Neet or Strat (seems to be some confusion here), and walked towards Bude Canal. Mum found a quiet place to sit and watch people feeding the ducks on the canal. I, in the meantime, wandered off along the canal banks in the direction of the sea lock.

The Sea Lock, Lock Gates and Hand Winches are Grade II* Listed.

 


It can be difficult to imagine these places in their old, as originally intentioned, working days. That is why I think this is an excellent historic photo, since it shows ships waiting at the sea dock, for the next high tide.

Not very much of the Bude Canal exists today, but it’s good to see that this section has been preserved, as it makes it possible to reimagine the old working life of Bude, in the town’s pre-resort days.

That only left one final thing to be done, obtain an ice cream for Mum and myself. Well, one can hardly visit the seaside and not have an ice cream, can one? We sat on the canal-side, eating our ice creams, watching people in paddle boats messing about on the water. I then left Mum where she sat whilst I returned to the car park to collect our car for the journey home.

I was so pleased we had come to Bude. We both enjoyed our visit, and came away thinking how nice Bude is. I can’t think why it has taken me so long to return to this place. Admittedly, it’s a bit of a trek from Exeter, but it has a lot to offer, making the effort well worthwhile.

Read more about Bude on WikiWand.

A photographic history of Bude can be viewed at Bude Past and Present.

Saturday, 5 September 2015

05 September 2015 - Walk: Restormel Castle (EH) & Lanhydrock (NT) (8.2 Miles)

Synopsis: A busy day, visiting Restormel Castle and Lanhydrock. With a bit of a walk to, from and in between. Travelled by train from Exeter. An enjoyable, interesting and quietly relaxing day.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
 
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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I’d recently become a member of English Heritage and was browsing their guide book when I stumbled upon Restormel Castle, and also noted that it was close to Lostwithiel railway station. I also noted it wasn’t far from Lanhydrock. It didn’t take a lot of mental effort to fathom a joint visit was possible, travelling by train, and hence today’s outing. I wrote this blog post on the go, therefore its style reflects this and is a little different to my normal style.

[07:34]: My train departed from Digby & Sowton railway station. I call it a station, but it is really more a 'platform', as is the way with railways these days. I'm afraid no one was serving cups of tea in the canteen in best historic tradition. Still, comfortably seated and chugging, of a fashion, along.

Up at 05:30 this morning. That's dedication for you. It was just becoming light as I got up. I have a lot to cram in today, which will include a good deal of time spent on trains. At least time on a train isn't wasted time, like time in a car, since I can catch up on news and emails as I travel. And, of course, in common with so many train passengers, I spent time looking out of the window. And today, one of the things I noted was the number of groups of men out cycling. Great to see so many getting fresh air and exercise in such an eco-friendly fashion. Where the women are, I'll leave you to surmise. I suspect half of my readers will say, slaving in the kitchen, and the other half will say, watching TV and gossiping.

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[Plymouth]: Crossing the River Tamar on the Royal Albert Bridge built by Brunel

[09:30]: Here I am crossing the River Tamar over Brunel's the Royal Albert Bridge, with the Tamar Bridge (road bridge) visible from my train window. Saltash is visible far below.


 

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[Lostwithiel]: Lostwithiel Bridge (Grade I Listed) - English Heritage List - Medieval bridge that was once the main road between Launceston and Liskeard

 

 

[10:08]: Arrived in Lostwithiel. Walking into the village I crossed over the medieval Lostwithiel Bridge (Grade I Listed). Popped down to the Church of St Bartholomew (Grade I Listed). I didn't have a lot of time to spare, but as I was passing by so close I thought I'd take a quick peek. I discovered the church was closed. The museum and the toilets were also closed. I must be in Cornwall.

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[Restormel Castle (EH)] - (scheduled ancient monument) - the castle and its ditch (one-time moat)

 

[11:02]: What an impressive ruin I discovered Restormel Castle (EH) to be. I now understand that it is considered to be the best preserved example of a Norman Motte and Bailey castle in the country. On approaching the castle, I saw that the ditch, the original castle moat, encircles the castle as it always has.

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[Restormel Castle (EH)] - (scheduled ancient monument) - interior view of the castle motte with well

 

 

 

[11:15]: The ruins are a lot more substantial than I had expected from the various images I had seen. Many of the walls of the interior rooms are still standing. In conjunction with the useful interpretation panels dotted about the castle, it was very easy to imagine life for those living in the castle.

 

[11:36]: Around the rear of the castle one can see the walls of the chapel, which juts out on the right of the image below. By now, the clouds had begun to part, and the sun put in a showing. The castle looked splendid. To capture something of the majesty of this venerable old ruin, I took this panoramic photo.

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[Restormel Castle (EH)] - (scheduled ancient monument) - iA view of the castle from the back, showing the chapel extension jutting out into the ditch on the right.

[12:24]: As I came close to Lanhydrock, I entered Great Wood, which stretches all the way to Lanhydrock. I noticed that the trails in the woods are wide and waymarked, although I didn't discover information on the day. Subsequently I found that there is information available at Cycle Lanhydrock. But this refers to trails north of Lanhydrock, in various 'plantations' (Lodge, Bazley, Walter, Cotislost, Roundhill, Hart and Timber). See: 'Trails map'. I cannot, at this time confirm the relevance of the trail markers I came upon in Great Wood as information on the National Trust's Lanhydrock's web pages doesn't seem to make reference to them. Cycle hire is available at Lanhydrock.

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My walk route between Restormel Castle (EH) and Lanhydrock (NT) - my way through Great Wood - walk/cycle trails (green/blue/red) are marked
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[Lanhydrock (NT)]: The imposing main entrance to Lanhydrock

[12:49]: Arrived at Lanhydrock (NT). And feeling hungry. First stop, find a bench in the garden and have something to eat. I was able to find a nice wrought iron bench that looked out over the formal gardens to the side of Lanhydrock House.

 

 

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[Lanhydrock (NT)]: Parterre garden

 

 

[12:50]: Whilst eating my lunch, I was suddenly greeted with a loud peal of bells. A wedding party was flowing out of the church and onto the lawn in front of me (I was to discover later, the second of the day). Just as the photographer was getting into full swing, the skies opened. It was such a shame. I made a quick dash for cover into the house.

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[Lanhydrock (NT)]: Master's bathroom

 

[15:06]: Ok, it's my old preoccupation with bathrooms that's come to the surface yet again. I'm afraid, because my bathroom is quite ancient, I take a delight in finding bathrooms that are actually older than mine. But, whatever my reasons for taking this photo, I do think it merits a place in my album. This is my kind of bathroom.

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[Lanhydrock (NT)]: The Drawing Room with barrel vaulted plasterwork ceiling

 

 

[15:12]: What I find very appealing about Lanhydrock is the completeness of the interior furnishings. Whether it is the rooms in which the family lived, or the rooms in which the 'staff' (the family declined to use the word servant, indicative of their liberal leanings) worked, every corner of the house is very fully furnished. I did like this room, which is particularly sumptuous.

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[Lanhydrock (NT)]: Gardens

[16:04]: I had a little bit of time to spare before setting off for the railway station. I used this time to have a little stroll around the garden. Although the garden season for this year was coming to an end, there was still a good deal of beautiful colour to be found. I particularly liked this patch where the light illuminating the plants is made dappled by the backdrop of trees.

 

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[Lanhydrock (NT)]: Laundry Trailer, in use until 1969

 

[16:34]: This is described as: 'Laundry Trailer, in use until 1969'. I overheard a conversation in which it was said Lanhydrock put their laundry out to widows in the community, which they deemed a worthy thing to do. This is interesting, since my own grandfather, abandoned to a workhouse, was brought up by a widow, who described herself as 'laundress'. Possible parallels?

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[Lanhydrock (NT)]: The lodge at the end of the main drive

 

[16:52]: Time for me to be headed home, as I've a train to catch. At the end of the very long drive of Lanhydrock I came upon this lodge. Past the lodge I crossed a road, passed by what looked like another lodge, and then picked up a tarmacked lane. Specimen trees are to be found along the entire length of this lane, which I take to be a Lanhydrock connection.

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My route from Lanhydrock to Bodmin Parkway railway station

 

 

[17:07]: This tarmacked lane, which follows the course of the River Fowey, I mistakenly thought might have been a dismantled railway. I now think it’s merely an extension of the main drive to the house. Whatever it was, I followed it all the way to Bodmin Parkway, from where I was due to catch my train home at 17:41.

 

The route I walked today can be viewed from: ':- Lostwithiel to Bodmin' (Bing Maps) The discrepancy in distance (8.2 miles walked today, 5.6 miles on route map) is because of distance involved in strolling around Lostwithiel, Restormel Castle and Lanhydrock gardens all added to the total mileage that I clocked. The distance from Lanhydrock to Bodmin Parkway was 1.8 miles, a distance I walked at a very casual pace in 48 minutes.

And one final note, a bit of an aside, although it could lay claim to being a cultural aside, is that a film adaptation of Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night or What You Will was filmed at Lanhydrock in 1996. If you can turn out a copy of this film, it might be just the ticket when it comes to setting the scene for a visit to Lanhydrock.

Previous visits of mine to Lanhydrock:

  * 22-29 June 2008 Treyarnon Bay Camping Holiday, Cornwall (Blog post)
  * 23 July to 16 August 2008 - Summer Holidays (Blog post)
  * 26 June 2010 Lanhydrock (Flickr photos)

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 13.25 km / 8.2 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 18min
Stopped Time: 1hr 01min
Total Ascent: 275 metres
Maximum Elevation: 124 metres

Buses: (none)
Trains: Digby & Sowton to Lostwithiel – off-peak day return with Devon & Cornwall Railcard: £11:50
…… Normal ticket price, without railcard discount (33%) would have been: £17.40

Train out: 07:34 – 10:08 (2hrs 34mins) – one change
Train return: 17:41 – 19:44 (2hrs 03mins) – one change (from Bodmin Parkway)

Tuesday, 1 September 2015

01 September 2015 – Trip: Torbay with Mum, including ferry across the bay

Synopsis: A late summer’s day trip to Torbay. The Western Lady Ferry took us to Torquay from Brixham. Fish and chips and ice cream to make our day at the seaside complete.

 
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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

It may seem like a long way to go for fish and chips, but it was worth it. Mum and I drove down to Paignton, and out to Paignton Harbour, towards Roundham Head, where we bought fish and chips to eat on the harbourside. The sun was strong and sheltered from the wind by the harbour wall, it was just perfect. And the fish and chips were pretty good too.

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[Brixham]: Western Lady Ferry docked and ready to take us, and quite a few others, across the bay to Torquay

I drove us on to Brixham and parked in the Harbour car park. We walked down to the quay where we bought return ferry tickets on the Western Lady Ferry. She was due to sail in 10 minutes, so we hadn’t long to wait. The ferry service was running on a 30-minute service interval today. It provides an efficient and cost effective means of getting between Brixham and Torquay, and has apparently been running since 1947.

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[Torquay]: Torre Abbey Gardens, looking splendid. This viewing platform on the pond is new.

 

 

On arriving in Torquay, the first thing we noticed was how far out the tide was. This meant quite a climb up steps from our ferry to the quayside. We then set off on a circular walk along the seafront which took in Torre Abbey Gardens. We then had an ice cream and a pot of tea by Torquay Harbour before catching the return ferry to Brixham.

The day had been warm and sunny, the sea calm, and the fish and chips and ice cream delicious. Now, that, to my mind, was an excellent way to spend a day.

Trip Statistics:

Western Lady Ferry return ticket Brixham/Torquay: £3.00/person

Saturday, 29 August 2015

29 August 2015 - Cycle: Marker’s Cottage and Clyston Mill, Broadclyst (10.5 Miles)

Synopsis: A visit by bicycle to Marker’s Cottage and Clyston Mill, in the village of Broadclyst, both National Trust properties. A picnic lunch in the churchyard, which also served as a bike park.

Cycle route on sports activity tracker Runtastic
 
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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I’ve visited Killerton House and Gardens (NT) on many occasions. And I’ve known that there are three ‘satellite’ properties owned by the National Trust (see Killerton’s ‘places nearby’), which I’ve long intended to visit, but time has always always thwarted me. Today I intended to visit all three, but once again the clock was against me, and I got to just the two, Marker’s Cottage (NT) and Clyston Mill (NT). The third, Budlake Old Post Office (NT), will have to wait until a future date.

If it’s my intention to visit Killerton, I nearly always cycle, as it’s such an easy and safe cycle route. Today was no exception. On reaching Broadclyst I had thought I might picnic in one of the nearby fields, but the grass was wet, so I thought better of it. I made my way to the local churchyard where, as I’d expected, there were to be found a number of benches. I picked one by a wall facing into the sun and sat in the peace and tranquillity of the churchyard to eat my lunch.

With no particular plan in mind, I opted to secure my bike to one of the benches in the churchyard. I then chose to walk to Marker’s Cottage (Grade II* Listed), which I’d noted as I passed it earlier on my way into Broadclyst. It was only a five minute walk from the church.

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Marker's Cottage (NT) – in Killerton estate colours

 

The cob cottage is painted in the Killerton estate colour of yellowish orange. It is a building of some considerable size suggesting this had been the property of a family of wealth. It is thought that the money came from the woollen trade, and the nautical references within the house, situated far from the sea as it is, are considered possible indicators of the international trade in goods that was once taking place.

 

On approaching the entrance to the house a notice requests that you ring the bell to gain access. A tug on the quaint bell pull soon resulted in a warm welcome into the house. I entered via a small vestibule, with the main hall being to the left, with a small living room to the right, to which I was led. The steward told me a little of the history of the house. Apparently the reason it is referred to as Marker’s, is that the earliest existing record of an inhabitant is one Sarah Marker in the early 18th century, although the house is thought to be a good deal older than that time.

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Marker's Cottage (NT) - Inglenook The hall, showing the fireplace and stair tower

The house originally had only one floor, the ground floor. The entrance passageway leads into the main living quarters, the main hall where the fire would originally have been in an open hearth in the middle of the room. This fire provided heat for the house and was also where food would have been prepared. The inglenook chimney was added at a later date.

 

 

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Marker's Cottage (NT) - oak panel partition wall

 

One of the main attractions of the cottage is the oak panelled wall that divides the hall from the parlour. Four of the original oak panels survive, with two having been replaced. The main reason for their survival was the fact that this wall had been covered in lathe and plaster which protected it. The oak panels and columns had been painted, paintings which survive. Those in the hall are somewhat darkened by the smoke from the fire, but those in the parlour are very well preserved.

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Marker's Cottage (NT) - country house furniture

 

The downstairs rooms have been simply furnished with a substantial amount of old country furniture. The furniture includes a settle, chairs, oak chests and tables. The house had been divided into two, to form two worker’s cottages, which was how it was when it became part of the Acland estate. During Victorian times minor improvements were made such as the addition of a chimney in the parlour, and an extension added to the rear of the cottage.

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Marker's Cottage (NT) - main bedroom

 

The first semblance of an upper floor that was added to the house was a single and simple bedroom space, possibly with a simple ladder to reach it. Subsequently the upper floor was extended across the whole house, subdivided into rooms, and a proper staircase introduced. The old stair tower has been rebuilt, up which I walked to the upper floor, at the top of which I entered the main bedroom. The bedroom has been furnished with furniture from the Victorian age.

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Marker's Cottage (NT) - the attic, showing smoke stained rafters and rye thatch from the time before a chimney and fireplace was inserted into the building

 

Windows at the rear of the house are mid-floor, belying the fact there was no floor division originally. From the upper floor it is possible to look through a hatchway to the attic space and see the original beams and rye thatch blackened from the time when there was no chimney in the house.

 

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Clyston Mill (NT) - entrance to mill with miller's cottage to the right

 

 

As interesting as Marker’s is, I needed to moving on if I was to spend time at Clyston Mill and attached Miller’s Cottage (Grade II Listed), so I said farewell to the very friendly steward and made my way back across Broadclyst. Clyston Mill can be reached via a path from the rear of the churchyard, a route that is signposted. Crossing a field that once contained the old mill pond, now only sheep, I reached the mill.

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Clyston Mill (NT) - the mill sluice gate damaged during recent storm

 

Clyston Mill is well preserved, complete with all its internal milling machinery, which is working order. Although milling wasn’t taking place today, the mill wheel was turning, apparently with the help of an unseen electric motor. I was informed that the problem today was the fact that there had been a storm a few days previous, which caused the level of the River Clyst to rise dramatically, and this caused damage to the sluice gate, thus making it impossible to maintain the water level at sufficient height to drive the waterwheel.

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Broadclyst - water conduit

 

Clyston Mill has always suffered with waterpower problems. During Victorian times a steam engine was installed such that the mill might continue to operate when there was insufficient water from the River Clyst to drive the mill. The housing for this old steam engine still exists, and today houses the electric motor, but the original steam engine has long gone. An interesting fact from the National Trust steward: the steam engine, in addition to driving the milling wheel, was also used to power a pump that supplied water to the village centre along lead pipes (see photo: ‘Broadclyst to Cowley via Killerton 001’).

 

 

 

On the upper floor can be seen all the milling machinery, including three mill wheels. Two are operational, one is held open so that it can be inspected. The tenant works as miller, and there are days when the milling can be seen in action. The flour that is ground is made available to the kitchen at Killerton. And the organic Real Food shop in Paris Street, Exeter, is also a customer for the flour.

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Clyston Mill (NT) - milk bottles from various local dairies, in various shapes, sizes and colours

Climbing one more floor, I entered the main storage area for the flour produced at the mill. There is a mechanical sack hoist that is capable of lifting the sacks of flour to this floor. There is a lovely set of old milk bottles in a series of display cabinets along the walls. I’d forgotten the fact that each dairy, and there were many of them, had their own shape of milk bottle, and their own branding. It harks of a world far removed from the standardised plastic milk containers of today.

 

 

 

There is also a quern, a hand propelled milling wheel, the oldest form of milling, used throughout the world for thousands of years. I’ve a feeling a feminist passed this way, as someone has objected to the wording on the information panel (look closely and you’ll see what I mean).

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Clyston Mill (NT) - milk making and delivery was 'a cut throat business' - it would seem some things never change

 

 

 

 

One thing that made me smile, was that I read on one of the information panels that the milk trade was a ‘cut throat business’. Recent reports in the press of disputes between farmers and the supermarkets over the price they were offered for their milk caused me to think some things haven’t changed so very much.

I’d thoroughly enjoyed my visit to these two National Trust properties. Small they might be, but they’re packed full of interesting history, and are simply charming. And Budlake Old Post Office remains to be seen another day.


Cycle Statistics:

Total Distance: 17.0 km / 10.5 miles
Elapsed Time: 5hrs 32min
Moving Time: 2hrs 19min

Buses: (none)