Synopsis: A walk along the perimeter of Dartmoor. Tavistock is a lovely place, that I’m only now beginning to discover. Double Waters, the confluence of the River Walkham and the River Tavy, is idyllic.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
I was looking at the bus map for Devon on the previous day to this walk, just scanning it for interesting destinations. In doing so, I noticed the 82 bus served Tavistock, a place I’d cycled through a few weeks previously, and thought an interesting place I’d like to explore more. In thinking about how to make a walk out of this, I realised the rail route between Plymouth and Gunnislake wasn’t far away. I toyed with the idea of taking in one of the National Trust properties (Buckland Abbey and Cotehele) nearby, but this would have been difficult, so in the end settled on this walk from Tavistock to Bere Alston.
Bus services to Tavistock are few and far between. There was only one bus I could catch for this walk, the 82 leaving Exeter at 10:25. It’s a mighty journey for a bus, lasting just over two hours, but I was happy to sit back and enjoy the scenery of the journey. There were only five passengers on this bus. The view seems to be that this service is doomed to be deleted, so it was just as well I was making this trip today.
On alighting from the bus in Tavistock (12:35 arrival), I immediately caught sight of a small kiosk selling pasties. Just the ticket, as that way I could keep my sandwiches for supper later in the day. I cut down Canal Street where I saw an information notice board with information about the Tavistock Canal. Not surprisingly, the canal is to be seen running under Canal Street. Despite having been nearby on several occasions, this was the first time I’d taken note of the canal. It isn’t large, being, I imagine, just the width of a canal barge.
I followed a path along the banks of the River Tavy, eating my pasty as I went, up to Abbey Bridge, where I crossed the river. It’s very picturesque and serene by the river, and I noticed a number of benches set under trees, which would have made, had I the time, a cool place to rest and relax. Instead, I continued on my way, crossing over the river once again, this time on a footbridge, which led me into Meadow Lands park.
I could see what looked to me like the bank of the canal, so I made a slight detour to take a closer look. That was indeed what it was. Nice to see that the old canal, at least in part, still exists today, long after its working life had expired. This is the Tavistock Canal, which provided a valuable service for the industry of Tavistock and its environs for more than forty years. Now, it is just a haven for ducks, and of course the children who feed them.
At the furthest reach of the park, I walked out onto the busy Plymouth Road whereupon I came across quite a number of old cottages. I should imagine they’re either old workers cottages, or alms houses. They’re very picturesque, and, once again, it’s lovely that they survive to this day. In fact one was for sale. I was sorely tempted to enquire. There is talk of the old rail link with Plymouth being re-instigated, which would make Tavistock a very attractive commuter place to live (‘David Cameron says Okehampton railway line is 'most resilient'’ – BBC News 30/01/2015).
On my way out of Tavistock, I passed near to Morrison’s, so I popped in for a couple of yoghurts for later. Then, it was a matter of following a lane, which forms part of West Devon Way, described as a ‘waymarked walking route’, but I have to confess, I didn’t see any waymarks as I walked part of this route today. I passed the grand old Walreddon Manor (Listed Grade I) (snapped) on my way along the lane.
Since my way out of Tavistock was along this lane, the latter part of which is clearly marked as a dead-end, I was surprised by the amount of traffic on the road. All became clear when I reached the end of the lane, at the point at which a gate leads onto West Down, where, parked on the sides of the lane, were numerous cars, the owners obviously taking a stroll on West Down. Considering how popular a location this evidently is, I was a little surprised no proper parking arrangements were in place at this spot. But, anyway, many people were obviously making the best of things.
Just a little way onto West Down the view suddenly opened up to me. I was looking across a fern covered hilltop into a valley lined with trees. It seemed the perfect place to break for a snack and a drink, and, luckily, there were some granite boulders conveniently positioned for me to select one on which to perch. I had plenty of company, as ponies were grazing nearby, and would wander by me.
After lunch I continued along a very distinct track that led me down the hillside towards a point named Double Waters, the confluence of the River Tavy and the River Walkham. I’d known of this place from a visit of mine many, many years ago, and came tantalizingly close to it on a recent walk. It is an extremely beautiful spot, and it alone was sufficient to make my walk today worthwhile. I lingered a while, taking photographs as I soaked up the tranquil beauty of the spot.
I crossed over the River Walkham by way of a footbridge and continued on along the banks of the River Tavy. This led me to another lovely spot, a sharp bend in the river at a steep cliff, where, to my surprise, there was a bench complete with a ramshackle shelter. I spotted a kingfisher dart by me, its electric blue colour glinting in the dappled sunlight. I hardly need say, I failed to capture a photo of it. I did however capture this panoramic view of this pebble beach.
The track passed Tavy Cottage and began to ascend the hillside through trees before opening out onto open moorland. The high ferns somewhat obscured my way forward, but I managed to pick my way down a somewhat overgrown path just below Berra Tor.
A short stretch down a dirt track soon connected me with a lane down which I continued along on my descent to once again rejoin the River Tavy near Hatch Mill. The weir that once fed the mill leat, now dry, is still shown on the map, and a path on the opposite bank leads down to it. There was some old rusting ancient farm machinery just outside the mill, standing next to a disused millstone.
This is a lovely spot, as the path hugs quite closely the course of the River Tavy at this point. On a summer’s day like today, with the sun glinting off the water, this was the perfect place to be. I passed another, somewhat ruined, weir, with waterwheel chute, but no buildings remained at the site.
Following a lane for a short distance, I was soon at Denham Bridge. I’d been here before, but approached along the opposite lane, from Buckland Abbey, on a recent walk. Like then, I knew I would now have to climb the quite steep hill up the lane from here. The lane is a little busier than one might expect, but walked with care, this is not a problem.
A little further along the lane I branched off right onto a footpath across fields. I then picked up a lane, passing by Mount Tamar house, and over a bridge over the dismantled railway that once connected the railway at Bere Alston to Tavistock.
Much of the losses arising from the Beeching Cuts are to be lamented, but I feel the loss of this connection with Tavistock is such a shame. The fact that it would connect Tavistock with Plymouth, and that much of the track-bed still exists, must surely be worth a rethink. But then, what do I know? (Further reading: Bid to reopen old train line – BBC News Friday 19th September 2008.) This is a superb view of Calstock Viaduct, I do know that much.
My way then took me along a track under a bridge that once carried this now lost railway. I was by now only a short distance from the end of my walk, the railway station at Bere Alston. How lovely it always is, I feel, to come across a railway station in the country with a service still operating. The railway buildings look, if not quite pristine, in remarkably good order considering the more than one hundred years service that they have given. The Victorians sure knew how to build to last.
It had been a reasonably demanding walk, with three quite steep hills to be climbed, giving a rather high Total Ascent (see Walk Statistics below), and the day had been rather warm and humid. I arrived about 40 minutes early for my train to Plymouth (17:49 departure), and in fact saw it come and go, as it had to run to Gunnislake prior to returning to Bere Alston. I was glad of the time to rest, relax and eat my picnic supper on the platform, which I had to myself for the majority of the time.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 12.59 km / 9.5 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 19min
Stopped Time: 45min
Total Ascent: 411 metres
Maximum Elevation: 164 metres
Buses: 82 Exeter to Tavistock £6.30
Trains: Bere Alston to Digby & Sowton off-peak single £9.90
