Wednesday, 16 April 2014

16 April 2014 – Trip: Hardy’s Cottage (NT) & Kingston Lacy (NT)

Synopsis: A day trip with Mum and sister-in-law Christine to a couple of National Properties in Dorset. Set out reasonably early as some distance to cover. Both visits excellent, and a great day out.

 
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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

The idea I had in mind for this trip out was inspired by the forthcoming launch of a new film version of Far From the Madding Crowd, the story by Thomas Hardy. And also prompted by the news that a new Thomas Hardy Visitor Centre opened by Julian Fellowes. This seemed to me like a nice tie-in, and an excuse for a visit to Dorset. Combined with one other aspect, a wish I’d long had to visit Kingston Lacy (NT). Since there was only a drive of about 30 minutes between Hardy’s Cottage and Kingston Lacy, this seemed like a good combination visit. As it was the Easter school holidays, my sister-in-law Christine, also joined Mum and I for this day trip.

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[Hardy's Cottage (NT)]: Visitor Centre, opened March 2015

It was going to be a fairly long drive from Exeter for us, so we set off quite early, picking up some picnic food at our local Tesco’s en route. We met our objective of arriving at Hardy’s Cottage just as it was about to open at 11:00 am. The car park, by the visitor’s centre, was quite busy even so. We didn’t stop to linger at the centre, merely made use of the facilities it provides, and then set off on the short walk up to Hardy’s Cottage.

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[Hardy's Cottage (NT)]: Garden and cottage

 

 

We bought our ticket from the man in the little garden shed at the bottom of the garden. He seemed very content in his little shed (men love their sheds). And then we caught our first sight of Hardy’s Cottage, as it is known. What immediately struck me was how picturesque it appeared in what was a sublime setting. It’s hard to imagine a more idyllic rustic scene.

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[Hardy's Cottage (NT)]: The main living room of the cottage


We entered the rather cramped confines of the cottage and were greeted by a steward. He told us a little of the history of the cottage and Thomas Hardy’s time there. What struck me was how substantial and forcefully minded Thomas’s mother Jemima was. I suspect she played a significant roll in modelling her son Thomas to become the successful author he was later to be.

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[Hardy's Cottage (NT)]: The kitchen / dining room

 

 

 

The stewards parcelled us into small groups to tread the narrow steps upstairs, as the cottage is very small. It was the fact that the cottage is so small and humble (despite now being two homes knocked into one), and that everything in the house was so plain and simple, that struck me so emphatically. Thomas was definitely a man who inspirationally rose up from very humble beginnings.

 

 

 

After our visit to the cottage, we back-tracked to the car park, and searched out a bench at which we could eat our picnic lunch. Although we did find a bench, this was something I feel the National Trust could have catered (sorry for pun) for a rather better. Still, we were well fed when the time came around for part 2 of our day. There is another National Trust property associated with Hardy, Max Gate (NT), in Dorchester, but we, with limited time, chose to make Kingston Lacy (NT) our next port of call.

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[Kingston Lacy]: Exterior view from the gardens

Having parked our car in the car park at Kingston Lacy we approached the house. The steward at the car park offered to drive us in his electric buggy up to the house, which, since Mum was with us, we decided to take him up on his offer.

 

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[Kingston Lacy]: A room that is lush and elegant

 

 


There are many interesting and beautiful rooms at Kingston Lacy. One has a board of keys, once the keys to Corfe Castle, and have a lovely story to go with them. Another room has a whopping great organ in it. This photo I’ve included here just because it is a fine example of how lush and elegant many of the rooms are.

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[Kingston Lacy]: The main stairway lit by an oculus

The stairway lit by a huge round skylight, a form of oculus (I suppose?), forms an imposing passage to the upper floor, complete with a series of bronze statues. The Tent Room is an amusing oddity, a room that gives the feeling of actually being in a tent. This is very glamorous camping, and probably as close to roughing it as the occupants ever got. 

 

 

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[Kingston Lacy]: Jib door - a hidden secret door

 

 

 

 

I noticed that there was a hidden secret door in one room at Kingston Lacy. I struggled to think of the name for such a door at the time, and then later it came back to me. It’s what is referred to in architectural terms as a Jib door. And yet jib is a complex word with many meanings. And jib can also mean ‘(Of a person) be unwilling to do or accept something’. Whoops, I went off on one there. But truly is a fascinatingly multi-layered word.

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[Kingston Lacy]: "One of Europe's longest avenue of trees at Kingston Lacy"

 

 

After our house visit Christine and I took a brief walk around the grounds. Mum chose to wait for us on a nearby bench.

We then sought out a picnic bench in the grounds where we stopped briefly for a snack prior to our journey home. It had proved a very successful outing, this Hardy inspired day of ours.

Friday, 4 April 2014

04 April 2014 - Walk: Doddiscombsleigh to Chudleigh (8.4 Miles)

Synopsis: A walk in part inspired by the Teign Valley Line railway (that was), of which only a few remnants remain. Followed a stretch of the old track-bed near Lower Ashton. Includes two interesting churches.

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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Short and sweet, I think that’s how I would describe today’s walk. Not that it didn’t include a few steep ascents to get the heart and lungs working. As mentioned in the synopsis for this post, this walk was in part inspired by the Teign Valley Line railway which I came across on my recent walk, 20 January 2014 - Walk: Christow to Dunsford (5.9 Miles). And this walk also came about because I recently discovered my great-grandmother, Sarah Elizabeth Rockett, was born in Doddiscombsleigh, as recorded in various census returns.

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Doddiscombsleigh - St Michael’s Parish Church, Listed Grade I

The day was overcast upon leaving the Exeter bus station punctually at 8:35am, but the forecast predicted a day of sunshine and showers, so I was hopeful for a good day. Doubt was cast on this as the bus approached Doddiscombsleigh which was shrouded in a thick mist. On reaching the village, as I had plenty of time today, I decided to wander down to the parish church to take another look around. I had spent a little time looking around the church on a previous walk of mine, 17 May 2013 - Walk: Haldon, including Doddiscombsleigh & Ashton (14.5 Miles).

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Doddiscombsleigh - St Michael’s Parish Church, Listed Grade I

 

What impresses me about St Michael’s Parish Church, Listed Grade I, at Doddiscombsleigh, and I’ve said this before, is its location. The view from the churchyard is across a valley to the hills of Haldon, and Haldon Belvedere. Whether the incumbents therein appreciate this, I wouldn’t like to say. I took this photo as I was leaving the church, and by this time the mist was beginning to disperse.

 

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May only be a common frog, but interesting colour all the same - Common frog - Wikipedia


I backtracked from the church through the village of Doddiscombsleigh and headed out on my walk route. for a short distance I repeated part of a previous walk, 17 May 2013 - Walk: Haldon, including Doddiscombsleigh & Ashton (14.5 Miles), but it wasn’t long before I diverted from the previous walk. On that occasion I was headed towards Higher Ashton, but today, I was headed for Lower Ashton. Part way along the road I came across this frog, which I believe to be a common frog, but was struck by its bright colour, which I would have thought made it an easy target for predators.

As I walked further along the lane I was able to look down upon the River Teign and beside it, distinctly visible through trees, could be seen the old track bed of the Teign Valley Line railway. It wasn’t possible to drop down to the old line as this is now on private land.

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Lower Ashton - the Teign Valley Railway - a level crossing stanchion

I entered the tiny hamlet of Lower Ashton which has the most picturesque post office. There is also a pub in Lower Ashton, the Manor Inn and Restaurant, but not a lot more than that. At the lower end of Lower Ashton I came across what I should imagine would have been one of the stanchions of the old level crossing tucked almost out of sight in a hedge.

 

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Lower Ashton - the Teign Valley Railway - the remains of a water pump

 

 

 

 

 

I then picked up a lane to the left. A little way down this lane a glance to my left and, visible through a hedge beside a bungalow, I could see the platform of what must once have been Ashton’s railway station. And a little further down this same lane I caught a glimpse of what appeared to be a relic from the time of the railway, which I think might have once been a water pump. There’s a short BBC Archive film of the Teign Valley Line on the BBC web site.

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River Teign – primroses, daffodils and anemones

 

Leaving the lane I entered a path that ran along the banks of the River Teign. I do like walking by rivers. Today there was plenty of colour to be seen along the river banks in the form of primroses, daffodils and anemones.

 

 

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Canonteign Barton and Falls


I then began to ascend the valley side and as I did so the view of the Teign Valley opened up before me in all its splendour. I was treated with a superb view of Canonteign House (Listed Grade II), with the hillside rising steeply behind it. And a little to the left of the house, in a small cleft, I could make out, almost hidden amongst the tree, Canonteign Falls. I’ve never visited the falls but gaining such a good view of them today made me think it is about time I paid them a visit.


 

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Trusham - viewed in its steep sided valley on my approach to the village

Climbing the summit of the hill and beginning to descend on the other side the tiny village of Trusham came into sight. The village has a somewhat unusual setting in that it spans a deep sided valley. The labourers working on the roof of a house on the opposite side of the valley could be heard calling to one another. No longer served by the Teign Valley Line railway, I understand Trusham railway station survives but is now privately owned (photos-station; photos-train; photos-Disused Stations). I descended along a cobbled path beside cottages. A young lady on a horse rode by as I was taking photographs.

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Trusham - parish church of St Michael's

 

I then climbed the opposite hill to that on which I’d entered the village until near the top a sign pointed the way to the church. The parish church of St Michael’s (Listed II*), Trusham, is charming. It’s been recently renovated, and quite significantly so, which took me rather aback at first, as it has new pine pew seating and a marble floor, which was not what I’d expected to see. A man and lady entered the church shortly after me and they explained that money had been left the church by the poet Charles Causley, who once owned a house in the village. The renovation has been undertaken with flair and sympathy for the old fabric of the church which has resulted in a practical and harmonious interior. I instantly felt this was a church with a good spirit.

 

 

 

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Trusham - parish church of St Michael's - monument to John Staplehill 1593 - the dress of those shown reflects the church's pre-Reformation Roman Catholic past

Two rather unusual aspects of the church that caught my eye were the ceiling in the chancel, which has a rather delicate scrollwork patter painted on it. Apparently this had been difficult to restore, and couldn’t be done fully, as in the 1960s it had been coated with a polymer which can’t now be removed. The other thing in the church which I noted was a painted monument on the north wall of the chancel. I made the comment that this looked rather unusual for an Anglican church, and the gentleman I was speaking with explained that it was pre-reformation and would therefore hark back to a time when the church would have been Catholic. Apparently the church was once the property of the monks at Buckfast Abbey, one of whom had recently visited with a cardinal from the Vatican, as evidence in the visitors book affirmed.

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A picnic lunch site with a view, just beyond the village of Trusham

On leaving Trusham parish church of St Michaels I picked up a path, past what appeared to be someone’s caravan home, and out into a steep sided valley. It was quiet, warm and sunny, and so I made this delightful spot my lunch stop. The early morning mist I spoke of had completely burnt off by this time, and the day was gorgeous.

 

 

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A herd of Roe Deer on the hillside

 


After lunch I made out on the last stretch of my walk. This was very quiet and secluded country with not a soul about. I glanced to the hillside to my right and there in the open was a herd of roe deer, perhaps fifty of them. Very unusual and most delightful to see a herd of deer out in the open like this. Of course they saw me as quickly (if not quicker) than I saw them, and were soon scurrying for the cover of a nearby copse.

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Chudleigh - centre of the village with war memorial and Devon flag flying


Oh dear! one more hill to climb. On reaching the summit of the hill the busy traffic on the A38 could be heard. By now I was within about a mile of my final destination, Chudleigh.

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Doddiscombsleigh - St Michael’s Parish Church, Listed Grade I

 

 

 

 

 

And just for a moment, as I conclude this post for what had been a splendid day, I’ll return to the start of my walk, to quote from one of the stained glass windows from the parish church of Doddiscombsleigh. I instantly liked this text on seeing it, and there and then decided to make it my parting words for this post: “Abide with us for it is toward evening and the day is far spent.” Nicely put, and truly a day well spent.

 

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.4 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 25min
Stopped Time: 1hr 49min
Total Ascent: 386 metres
Maximum Elevation: 136 metres

Buses: 360 (Exeter to Doddiscombsleigh: £2.70) & 39 (Chudleigh to Exeter: £6.00)

Wednesday, 19 March 2014

19 March 2014 – Cycle/Walk: Ide (Combined: 14.1 Miles -:- Walk: 4,4 Miles)

Synopsis: A brief walk around my ancestral home village of Ide in the somewhat forlorn hope of finding dwellings named in census but now numbered. A footpath across hills to Alphington and back to Ide.

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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Although the walk time seems lengthy in reality much of this time was spent exploring the village of Ide in the hope of finding various places at which my grandparents might once have lived. I’ll keep my family history element of this post brief, as it is of little general interest.

I started my walk be taking a few photos of The College (see below), specifically No. 2, as this is where my grandfather, William Henry Rockett grew up, in the care of Frances (Fanny) Mitchell (née Hobbs), Laundress. William, born 1892, appears at this address in both the 1901 and 1911 census. Since the eight houses of The College have always been numbered, and that numbering remains to this day, it is relatively easy to place William’s historic residence within today’s Ide. The only difference today from William’s time is that there is no longer a No. 1, as this has been combined with No. 2.

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Ide - The College - No. 2 is furthest on the right partially hidden behind conifers

With my grandmother, Winifred May Madge (later to marry William, 1915, Exminster), things are not quite so simple. There is only the one census return that shows the Madge family in Ide and this was 1911, when they’re to be found in one of four cottages called The Carpenters. The problem is that Ide, presumably like other villages, dropped the extensive naming of houses in favour of house numbering, and today there is no way to establish a relationship between these two methods of house identification. Since this outing today I’ve taken a stab at making a guess as to where the Madge family might have lived, which I’ve explained in the next paragraph.

Examining the 1911 census roll for Ide it’s possible to determine the route of travel of the census taker, who, starting at the Bridge Inn, made his way along Ide Fore Street past Drake’s Farm, then up the left side of High Street, passing Poplars Cottage, past Lock’s Cottages (burnt down in the 1930s) to the school and the Jewel family. There are then four more houses, the last of which being The Laurels, so named today. Then in the census roll appear the 4 residences of The Carpenters, the Madge family being found in the second in the sequence. My mother informs me that her mother’s house was approached through an arch and down a narrow passageway. There is such an access-way visible off High Street today, a passageway that runs down the side of the second house up from The Laurels. Could this be where Winifred May Madge and her parents were living in 1911? I think I am tantalisingly close, but unfortunately access to this passageway appears to be barred by a locked gate.

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Ide - Poplars Cottage

I broke my walk at this point, as nearby were the Coronation Gardens, where a bench in the sun appeared an inviting place to sit and eat my lunch. There were two ladies sat there taking a break from their toils attending to the garden. I got to speaking with them and Jacqui told me she’d lived in Ide for quite some years but didn’t recognise the house name The Carpenters. She said she would introduce me to Charlie Voysey later, an old Ide grandee, as he might recognise the name. The pretty Poplars Cottage is just across the road from the Coronation Gardens.

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Ide - dismantled railway, once the Teign Valley Railway

 

After lunch I walked up the High Street to the top of the village where a car park is to be found, and from here a footpath leads off in an easterly direction, following for a short length the old track bed of the disused railway, once known as The Teign Valley Railway. The path soon diverts off right into fields, follows the contour for a while before a steep climb to the top of a hill from which I discovered a sweeping view over all of Exeter, with the cathedral clearly visible on the distant horizon.

Ide - footbridge over A30
Ide - footbridge over A30

 

 

I then joined a lane which took me in the direction of Alphington. Walking through Alphington I picked up Old Ide Lane which led me to the modern and very busy A30. I followed a path that runs parallel with the A30 which ended at a lane near the Twisted Oak pub, as named today, once the Bridge Inn. I crossed first the old Ide bridge which gave the inn its name, then by way of a modern footbridge I crossed over the busy A30 finding myself arrived back in the village of Ide.

 

As it happens, just as I entered the village, there was Jacqui who I’d met earlier, walking towards me. She offered to introduce me to Charlie who lives in a house near where we stood by the war memorial. Charlie was to be found in his garden. I had to good thirty minute chat with Charlie, who had countless memories of the village, and felt he should be able to place The Carpenters, but was unable to call it to mind. Not altogether surprising, as I was attempting to go back an awful long time. I was grateful to Charlie for being willing to spend time talking with me of his memories of the village.

It was by now time to make my way home, so I returned to my bicycle, parked near the footbridge over the A30. It had been a hot and sunny afternoon, quite a treat for March. And time spent dwelling on aspects of our family’s history and its connection with Ide was rewarding. For me there’s something very satisfying about being in touch with one’s roots.

Cycle/Walk Statistics:

Total Distance (Combined Cycle/Walk): 14.1 miles -:- (Walk): 4.4 miles
Elapsed Time (Combined Cycle/Walk): 4hrs 32min -:- (Walk): 3hrs 06min
Moving Time (Combined Cycle/Walk): 3hrs 02min
Stopped Time (Combined Cycle/Walk): 1hr 30min
Total Ascent (Combined Cycle/Walk): 282 metres
Maximum Elevation (Combined Cycle/Walk): 103 metres

Buses: (none)
Cycled from Home to walk start/finish point in Ide

Saturday, 15 March 2014

15 March 2014 - Walk: Loughwood Meeting House (8.5 Miles)

Synopsis: My first visit to Loughwood Meeting House (NT). Also includes a visit to the village of Dalwood, part of the River Yarty, a stretch of Corry Brook, an old packhorse bridge, and a section of Roman road.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
Walks in Historic Devon
Walks in Historic Devon

This walk is walk 13 (p.81) from Walks in Historic Devon by Michael Bennie: The Secret Chapel - Loughwood Meeting House. This is my first walk from this book, which I borrowed from Exeter Central Library. I believe this book may no longer be in print, therefore the only opportunity to examine this walk will be either to borrow from a local library, or possibly obtain a second-hand copy. Each walk in the book is described in some detail both from an historic perspective and also as a route guide. A rough sketch map is provided for each walk to aid navigation.

Well, after looking at the synopsis for this walk given above one might conclude this has something for everyone, and you wouldn’t be far wrong either. There was plenty of variety, interest and beautiful scenery to be found on this walk. Plus an ulterior motive for me walking this way in that my great-great-grandfather, Eli Rockett, was born in Dalwood, so I was keen to take my first look around this village of my roots.

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Higher Westwater

I was dropped from my bus on schedule at the ‘Kilmington – The Hill’ bus stop at 10:30 am. The sun was shining and the day warming nicely. I walked down a track, through a farmyard and over a footbridge across the Corry Brook. I then picked up a green lane for a short distance which took me down to the River Yarty at Higher Westwater. I crossed the footbridge and walked in front of the attractive farm buildings, picking up my trail which led me up stream along the banks of the river.

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Following the course of the River Yarty

 

Following the course of the River Yarty my way was easy, dry and very pleasant walking. The soil underfoot was very different to the core Devon red clay which is to be found across much of the county. Here it was a dry whitish mix of sand and pebbles, the fast draining qualities of which might well explain why it was so dry.

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Beckford Bridge - early packhorse bridge

 

 

A little further up river I approached Beckford Bridge, Dalwood Lane, which is a fine example of an early packhorse bridge (Grade II listed) and quite sturdy enough to take my weight. Sadly the modern bridge which now carries the majority of traffic that comes this way had none of the charm of this fine old bridge.

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Beckford Bridge - primroses

 

I crossed a lane and then picked up a footpath sign pointing across a field. Unfortunately however I chose to follow the field boundary which skirts a track leading up the hillside, which was a case of stupid indecision on my part. I should have either followed the track or the footpath, but wound up doing neither. Part way up the hill I corrected my navigation by dropping down onto the track from the field I was in. It was a quite considerable climb to get to the top of Danes Hill, my biggest climb of the day.

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Dalwood - bridge over the Corry Brook

The views from the top of Danes Hill were worth the effort of the climb. I looked right across the valley in which the little village of Dalwood, my next destination, was to be found. The village looked wonderfully picturesque with the Corry Brook flowing gently through the centre of the village.

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Dalwood - the perfect picnic spot by the banks of the Corry Brook

 

 

 

The village of Dalwood I found to be a quaint and peaceful place, described as being ‘in the heart of the Blackdown Hills’. I found a lovely bench in the sun under a willow tree, by the banks of the Corry Brook, which is where I sat to eat my picnic lunch.

 

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Dalwood - St Peter's Church

After lunch I made my way along a footpath to the Church of St Peter’s (Grade I listed). The tower with polygonal stair turret has wonderfully grotesque gargoyles on it. I quickly wandered around the churchyard for a while, perusing the gravestones, wondering if I’d come across any Rockett ancestors of mine, but none were to be found. I did however have a little better luck upon entering the church, where I came across a transcription of the parish burial register. A quick perusal of this and, as might be expected in this Rockett hotspot, I discovered 5 Rockett entries, from the neighbouring village of Stockland. Digital versions of the Dalwood Parish Registers are available from Dalwood History.

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Dalwood - St Peter's Church - fragments of medieval glass in east window

I also discovered a little booklet in the church, ‘Dalwood – A Short History of an East Devon Village’, by G. M. Chapman (mentioned on Genuki). Flicking through the (52) pages of this booklet I stumbled upon a brief mention of a Rope Factory. I recalled seeing my great, great, grandfather, Eli Rockett, making mention of being a Rope Maker in the census of 1851. I was delighted to find a reference of the place where he must have worked.

 

 

Later in the evening I traced the location of the rope factory, which is clearly shown on an old map of 1889 as the ‘Corry Factory (Disused)’. Needless to say I popped a copy of this book in my rucksack after appropriate remuneration (£2.50) was placed in the box for offerings by the door.

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Dalwood - The Tucker's Arms

Just prior to leaving the village of Dalwood I took a moment out to pop into The Tucker’s Arms to pick up additional drink in the shape of a bottle of ginger beer. The day was quite warm and I was becoming rather parched. I then left the village by way of Lower Lane, which promised to take me to the Rising Sun (a cul-de-sac one passes on the way out of the village).

 


 

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Loughwood Meeting House (NT) - view from the gallery with the pulpit at the far end - box pews

Loughwood Meeting House (NT), or Loughwood Chapel (Grade II* Listed) was to be found part way up the hill, with expansive views across the valley of the Corry Brook. A tranquil, and perhaps inspirational, site, a short distance from emblems of the modern world, and yet resonant of an older world of peaceful meditation. Baptised members of Loughwood travelled from as far afield as Shebbear, which is 65 miles from the chapel. The dense woodland surrounding the original meeting place has long since been cleared so that the clandestine nature of its setting can only be appreciated in the imagination today.


I was glad I had visited Loughwood Meeting House. To my mind it has the very rare and special quality to still represent the devout beliefs of those people that once, though risking persecution, were prepared to go to extreme lengths to follow their faith. The very sparse and simple interior leaves one in no doubt that the people who came to this chapel needed no ornament to go about their worship. I believe whatever one’s religious inclinations, that to be something one can approach with admiration. The picture of Loughwood Meeting House below is a panorama taken from within the chapel graveyard.

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Loughwood Meeting House (NT) viewed from its graveyard, looking out across the valley of the Corry Brook back towards Dalwood

I climbed up through the woods on Kilmington Hill and picked up the old Roman road that would take me back to my bus stop. This walk on the eastern extremes of Devon proved a delight. And discovering the place at which one of my forefathers once worked was a superb bonus. A splendid way to spend the day.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.5 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 12min
Stopped Time: 49min
Total Ascent: 372 metres
Maximum Elevation: 164 metres

Buses: 4