30 November 2013 - Walk: Chulmleigh, from King’s Nympton (6.7 Miles)

Synopsis: With it being a late autumn, there was plenty of lingering autumn colours to be seen. So unbelievably quiet in this part of Devon. Utter peace, with not a soul to be seen, except in Chulmleigh.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

More Tarka Line Walks

This walk is derived from walk ‘King’s Nympton’ (p.32) in the book More Tarka Line Walks by Peter Craske. This book followed upon an earlier publication, not surprisingly titled Tarka Line Walks. I believe that both of these books are now superseded by one bumper book called Tarka Line Walks. I don’t have a copy of this new book, but it’s likely that my walk today will be found in this new edition. The walks from this book are intended to be accessed from the Tarka Line that connects Barnstaple and Exeter. To see other walks from this book that I have completed, use the link under Tags to the right.

The walks described in More Tarka Line Walks are well written up, with an interesting narrative describing what will be seen during the walk, and adequate walking directions to navigate the route. An Ordnance Survey 1/25k map showing the walk route is printed for each of the walks, making it possible to navigate the route without a separate map, although having one’s own map is always advisable.

King's Nympton railway station

I arrived at King’s Nympton railway station punctually and was walking by 9:20am. King’s Nympton railway station is in the valley of the River Taw, quite some distance from King’s Nympton itself, which I wouldn’t in fact be visiting today. My guide book described today’s walk as ‘along the high ridge lying east of the River Taw’. Not long after setting out I turned onto a track, and just as expected, I was soon beginning a long steady ascent out of the Taw Valley.

View of the Taw Valley

 

I glanced back over my shoulder at the Taw Valley stretching into the distance. What with it having been a late autumn this year, there was still considerable autumn colour to be seen. The sun was low, never to attain any real height on this winter’s day, casting a glow rather than a light on the scene before me.

Sheep may safely graze

 

What struck me most of all was the peace and tranquillity in which I was immersed. I suppose that shows just what a city boy (euphemistic?) I am. Living in Exeter, one gets accustomed to the constant background noise all about, and it’s only on escaping to the country, particularly that of mid-Devon, that one really appreciates the joy of silence.

Chulmleigh - thatched cottages and cobbled pavements

 

The first thing I noticed on entering Chulmleigh was a line of quaint cottages with a cobbled path out front, complete with water pump. Chulmleigh, although hacked about a bit over time, has quite a number of really picturesque corners like this, that make it very endearing.

I thought the Post Office looked quaint, and quite unmistakable in its bright red colours. Would the large doors to the right have been where horses would once have been led through to be stabled?

 

 

 

Chulmleigh - the old market hall

 

My guidebook mentions the ‘market house’ which it describes as conceived ‘in an effort to boost the town’s declining fortunes, never saw the activity for which it was intended.’ Today it was housing a coffee morning (‘50p a cup, but very noisy, as it’s full of women’, a local gentleman told me). I said, ‘It’s the old market hall, isn’t it?’. He replied, ‘Is it?’ I suppose, who really cares but me? It quite obviously sees more trade today in coffee, biscuits and a good natter than it ever did as a centre for the wool trade. Hey ho!

Chulmleigh - Church of St Mary Magdalene

The parish church of St Mary Magdalene is of some distinction (Listed Grade I), so I poked my nose in for a peak around. On a previous visit I noted how nice it was to be looked down on by the angels that adorn the wagon roof. Other things caught my notice on this repeat visit. There’s a marvellous brass chandelier hanging in the nave. And then I noticed this wonderful carving in the porch. Described in the church’s listing as ‘Above the inner doorway is a probably Norman square stone with a figure of the Crucifixus in a roundel.’ Delightful!

Chulmleigh - Church of St Mary Magdalene

On a previous visit to Chulmleigh (23 June 2012 – Walk: Chawleigh and Chulmleigh (14.5 Miles)) I had noticed how fine the railings are, and subsequently discovered that these are Listed Grade II, but failed to get a photograph on that occasion. This omission now rectified.

 

 

A bit of sheep herding

As I left Chulmleigh I descended steeply down Rock Lane on Rock Hill, the start of an ancient track that once led all the way to Copplestone, until I reached a footbridge over the Little Dart River. Sheep that had escaped their field greeted me on the far side, and for a while I became a shepherd driving his flock along the track. There was after all little else I could do in this situation. Luckily they climbed the bank and fled back into their field part way along the track.

Upcott Woods - my lunch stop in the sun

 

Making my way through Upcott Wood I noticed that it was approaching noon and I was by now well into my walk, so I planned to break for lunch. Luckily I found a south facing bank of grass in the sun that made for the perfect picnic spot. A curious robin put in an appearance, perhaps hoping for crumbs (and there are always crumbs with me), my only company over lunch.

Eggesford railway station

 

I actually got back to Eggesford railway station a whole hour earlier than I anticipated as my quickest time. I caught the 13:07 train in the direction home. I mulled over the fact that I was early and the day quite glorious, and chose to disembark from the train early at Exeter Central, and opted to walk along the towpath of the Exeter Canal back to my home.

 

Nice to be able to travel by train to my walk today. The Tarka Line makes for a lovely journey, to be especially recommended at this time of year, when it passes through swathes of warm autumn colour.

Note: Although I’ve only clocked two walks from the book More Tarka Line Walks, I’ve become aware that the walk 23 June 2012 – Walk: Chawleigh and Chulmleigh (14.5 Miles) which was derived from the book Walk! Devon covers a lot of the route Eggesford from More Tarka Line Walks (p.28). Combined with the route that I’ve walked today, I shall consider this walk as described in More Tarka Line Walks also one that I’ve clocked.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 6.7 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 37min
Stopped Time: 32min
Total Ascent: 393 metres
Maximum Elevation: 182 metres

Buses: (none)
Train: Digby & Sowton to King’s Nympton (Off-peak return: £8.70)

22 November 2013 - Cycle/Walk: Exeter, Exmouth, along Exe Estuary Trail (23.2 Miles)

Synopsis: A chance to inspect the new cycle/foot bridge that spans the River Clyst near Topsham. A glorious fresh and sunny winter’s day was ideal to blow away the cobwebs.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Inspiration for this cycle ride was my catching sight about a week prior to today the news article that announced that the new cycle/foot bridge over the River Clyst had been opened (Devon Exe Trail nearer with bridge opening). I’d been watching with keen interest the progress on construction of this bridge throughout the summer. With a clear sunny day forecast, and a semi-new bicycle in my garage, today seemed the perfect opportunity to get cycling.

To explain the ‘semi-new bicycle’ phrase above. Yesterday I took my rather lame bicycle along to my friendly local cycle shop, Richard’s Bikes, and asked for a diagnosis. Apparently, after 5.5 years of cycling the transmission was shot through excessive wear to chainset, cassette and chain. The only thing for it was completely new replacement of these parts, and so I left my bike in their capable hands for treatment. Upon recovering my bicycle I discovered that such a major overhaul as it had undergone made my bicycle feel semi-new. I was keen to give it a trial outing.

Topsham - duck and geese landing jetty

Today’s route was, apart from the new bridge section, completely familiar to me, as this is an exercise route of mine that I’ll use simply to get heart and lungs pumping. The route is largely level with only a small number of inclines (chance to try out my new lower gear ratios). I took my time passing through Topsham simply to take in the ambience of this lovely village.

Topsham - Cycle Route 2 out of Topsham, with Route 2 café on the left

 

 

The route to the new bridge is signposted from Topsham Quay, not far from The Lighter pub, passing the Route 2 café up Monmouth Hill. A little way along this road the route enters Monmouth Street on the left. There are lovely cottages and elegant town houses dotted all along these roads.

Topsham - Route 2, take left - under railway bridge for start of new cycleway section

 

Climbing steadily out of Topsham into a country lane at the top of which I took a right at a T-junction descending to where the new section of the trail is entered on the left of the lane. It’s easy to spot, as there’s a substantial gate just ahead of a bridge carrying the railway overhead.

New Route 2 cycleway section and bridge

 

 

I was now on the newly constructed section of the Exe Estuary trail. I started on a compounded gravel track soon moving onto a planked carriage supported above the estuary marshes. Interestingly I noted that little viewing bays along the route with slits through which it’s possible to look out onto the marshes. This I felt was a nice detail.

New Route 2 cycleway section and bridge

 

I think the new bridge is a great success. It cuts the distance for this section down considerably, and avoids what was an unpleasant stretch along a narrow path adjacent to a very busy road. This new section is so much more pleasant and a good deal safer than the previous route. I can see it becoming very popular with cyclists and pedestrians alike.

 

Exmouth - shelter on the promenade, my lunch stop

 

I permitted myself no more stops for photos on my route from here to Exmouth. Well, time was marching on and I was getting hungry. I parked my bicycle up on on railings (oddly, there’s very little cycle parking in Exmouth) and perched myself comfortable and warm in the sun of one of the shelters along the promenade. The protection from the wind was welcome, as this carried quite a chill with it. Once in the shelter the sun was more than strong enough to keep me warm and cosy.

In my mind was the question has Exmouth changed much over the years? Well, I suppose the answer depends on where in Exmouth you are when you ask that question. But on the whole, I would say that much of Exmouth has changed very little through the years. The Francis Frith photographic collection has quite a few old photos of Exmouth and is worth browsing, of which the photo below on the left is one such example, with my shot from the roughly similar location on the right.

The Harbour View Cafe c1955, Exmouth - © Francis Frith

Exmouth - promenade

Exmouth - Orcombe Point - Geoneedle

After my lunch I embarked on a little walk across the grassy hillocks of The Maer, where once we used to play rounders and have barbecues as an extended family. I then picked up the cliff path out to the Geoneedle at Orcombe Point. They’ve added some seating and landscaped the surrounding area in recent years. It offers superb views.

Exmouth - Orcombe Point

 

 

I then took some wooden steps on Orcombe Point dropping down to the beach and walked along the sand till I picked up the path along Queen’s Drive.

 

Exmouth - winter storms shifting the sand dunes - little pyramids of replaced sand

 

Walking swiftly along here I hesitated only momentarily to look at the sand dunes which have already taken quite a pounding this winter, with much of the sand skimmed from the top of the dunes and deposited on the path and road. A digger and truck were valiantly battling to redeposit this sand back on the beach, forming what looked like a line of little pyramids in front of the dunes. I suspect this maybe a futile endeavour.

 

A most enjoyable day’s cycling. Bike was in good shape after it’s remedial treatment of the day before. And I wasn’t in too bad a condition myself, for an oldie.

Cycle/Walk Statistics:

Total Distance (Combined Cycle/Walk): 23.2 miles -:- (Walk): 3.0 miles
Elapsed Time (Combined Cycle/Walk): 4hrs 29min -:- (Walk): 1hrs 25min
Moving Time (Combined Cycle/Walk): 3hrs 37min
Stopped Time (Combined Cycle/Walk): 0hr 52min
Total Ascent (Combined Cycle/Walk): 395 metres
Maximum Elevation (Combined Cycle/Walk): 51 metres

Buses: (none)
Cycled from Exeter to walk start/finish point in Exmouth

24 October 2013 - Exhibition on Heavitree, Exeter, Devon

Synopsis: I noticed this poster pinned to a lamppost advertising an exhibition to commemorate the annexing of Heavitree by Exeter in 1913. Posted here for information.

 

DSC00716 – My poster photo on Flickr

Text from this poster

(seen on 24th October 2013):

 

"This photograph was taken in Heavitree before 1913. Do you know where?

 

To find out where, and to see more of Heavitree before 1913, then come to our exhibition in St. Michael's School, South Lawn Terrace on either Friday 1st November or Saturday 2nd November 10am to 4pm.

 

Heavitree was annexed to Exeter in November 1913 and this year sees the centenary of this momentous event.

 

This is an exhibition of photographs and artefacts gathered and collected over the years by sentimental residents.

 

There will be a slide show on Saturday 2nd.

 

Light refreshments will be available."

 

05 October 2013 - Walk: Par to Fowey (8.3 Miles)

Synopsis: My homage to Daphne du Maurier. After having recently read several of Daphne’s books I decided I should revisit her old stomping ground. A gorgeous hot October day.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Dawlish (from the train)

I was up at 5am for today’s walk. It’s been sometime since I last acted quite so recklessly. Perhaps it was time I put myself out and made more of an effort. I boarded the 6:56 train out of Exeter St David’s just as daylight was emerging. It’s actually quite lovely to be out and about as the day dawns. The light is marvellous, and it gives one a real sense of readiness to make the most of the new day.

Par Sands

 

 

I arrived punctually at Par station at 9:10am. Within just 20 minutes I was walking, along with numerous dog walkers, through the sand dunes of Par Sands. It was nice to discover wild flower colour at this time of year, in the form of Evening Primrose (completely unaware it was morning) and Dog Rose, growing amidst the Marram Grass of the dunes.

Par Sands

There is quite a large car park at the eastern end of Par Sands from which there is a footbridge over a little stream and steps that took me up onto the coast path. I was soon walking past Little Hell (you’ve probably just come from Big Hell) with the long straight run (euphemistic?) to The Gribbin clearly visible ahead of me. Daphne du Maurier spent her final years at Kilmarth House just a short walk inland from here.

Polkerris

 

 

The tiny village of Polkerris crept up on me rather unexpectedly, in that it lies tucked away in a steep sided valley and is not visible until you’re nearly upon the village. A steep descent down a zig-zag path dropped me amongst the few houses, from where I strolled out onto the beach. A small wind-surfing class was receiving tuition on the beach (there was no wind).

Approaching The Gribbin

My walk along the cliff edge hugging coastal path was damp underfoot from the early morning dew that gave the fields a silvery sheen. The air, initially fresh, was already beginning to warm. Wispy clouds drifted across the sky providing little shade from the sun. Footpath diversions guided me safely around a number of landslips, the previous winter having taken its toll on the cliffs of the south west.

The Gribbin (Gribbin Head) - the daymark

 

 

At The Gribbin there stands a 26 metre tall tower named the Daymark, built in 1832 by Trinity House (the lighthouse and lightship authority) to enable sailors to distinguish The Gribbin from other South Cornish headlands. Today it probably does greater service to the walking community, the sight of which instilling little doubt about one’s location.

 

 

 

The Gribbin (Gribbin Head) – view of Polridmouth Cove

 

 

From The Gribbin I looked down on Polridmouth Cove and decided to make that my lunch stop. I arrived at the cove at 11:50am feeling hungry after my long morning. I chose a spot to sit on the rocks amongst the Samphire from where I looked out to sea as I ate my lunch, wondering whether Daphne might not have once sat here mulling over the plot to Rebecca. It would be hard to imagine a more idyllic setting.

The mouth of the River Fowey

 

It was actually very hot picnicking at Polridmouth Cove and so I decided to be on my way as soon as I’d eaten my fill, in the hope that there might be more of a breeze up on the cliffs. A sizeable ship, possibly loaded with china clay, sailed seaward from the mouth of the River Fowey as I walked along the cliff top.

Bright red berries, but of what?

 

 

 

 

My guide book mentioned Sea Buckthorn which it described as ‘a prickly shrub with orange berries in autumn’. I was keeping an eye out for this when I thought I had spotted this specimen in the hedgerow as I approached Readymoney Cove (I like that name). In retrospect, I suspect this isn’t Sea Buckthorn, but quite what it is, I can’t say.

 

 

I had just begun my descent towards Readymoney Cove when I caught sight of a sign indicating St Catherine’s Castle off to my right. St Catherine’s was built as a small artillery fort by Henry VIII in the 1530s. It’s easily accessible from the coast path and there’s no charge to visit. Worth a little detour in particular to appreciate its vantage point.

Fowey to the left, Polruan to the right, with St Catherine's Castle in the foreground

 

Readymoney Cove

Readymoney Cove is a pretty place dominated by an Italianesque building on its northern corner. This is probably Fowey’s best beach, small though it is. I suspect it is a good deal busier during peak-season summer days, whereas today it was quiet and tranquil.

 

Fowey

 

 

 

But little time to linger. Onwards I trekked, the short distance up and around the bluff and down into Fowey itself. I arrived at 13:40, which was earlier than I had expected. This allowed me plenty of time to explore Fowey at my leisure.

Fowey - Church of St Fimbarrus or St Nicholas - Rashleigh memorial

 

 

 

One last visit I made today, and that was to the Church of St Fimbarrus or St Nicholas (Listed Grade I). If there was ever any doubt about the significance of the Rashleigh family in this area, a visit to this church would soon dispel such a notion. The large Menabilly house and estate, where Daphne du Maurier and her family once lived, has been in the Rashleigh family for many centuries, and remains in their ownership to this day. Another interesting aspect of this church is the fact that it has a clerestory, very unusual in a Cornish church. And I found the porch interesting too, as it’s a double storey porch, which aren’t very common.

 

It was a long day, but as I was travelling by train I was able to use much of my journeying time for reading, which is a good deal more profitable than being sat behind the wheel of a car. All journeys today, by train and bus, were punctual and efficient. The walking was brilliant, and I returned home feeling well exercised, but very relaxed. It had been a great way to spend the day.

Footnote (1): My guide book mentioned the following: “In 1469 John Wilcock, a local captain, captured fifteen ships off the Brittany coast in a fortnight. This lawlessness embarrassed Edward IV as he had just made peace with the French, so he sent a messenger to Fowey to tell the inhabitants to desist. The hapless emissary was sent back minus an ear.” The Cornish always were a belligerent and unruly lot, and I’ve a sneaking feeling that would have been something that Daphne du Maurier would have readily associated with.

The real ghost of Manderley -
© The Telegraph

Footnote (2): So, how did I come to be reading so much du Maurier? Well, it all started with this photo of Daphne standing on the stairs of her one-time home, Menabilly. I found it an arresting picture, so I read the story The Real Ghost of Manderley, which is a piece written by the author Justine Picardie who has written a fictionalised account of Daphne’s later life simply entitled Daphne. I was intrigued enough to attempt to search out the book, which I could only find in audiobook form at a nearby library. I gave it a spin. It made me realise what a complex person Daphne was, someone not at all easy to pigeonhole. I then read Myself When Young, followed by The Loving Spirit (her first book, written at Ferryside, Fowey). And followed that up with My Cousin Rachel. So, as you see, I’ve taken a fair old sampling of Daphne just recently, and thought I’d conclude this little du Maurier chapter of mine with a visit to Fowey, in many respects her heartland. Daphne’s ashes are scattered on the cliffs nearby. To my mind Daphne was a consummate story teller, perhaps something that stemmed from her theatrical upbringing. (Daphne)

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.3 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 11min
Stopped Time: 59min
Total Ascent: 417 metres
Maximum Elevation: 78 metres

Buses: Western Greyhound 525 (Fowey to Par: £3.30)
Trains: Digby & Sowton to Par (Off-peak day return: £17.50)