16 November 2010 – Cycle: Exeter to Haldon (31.6 Miles)

Synopsis: A route climbing Haldon Hill through the tracks and lanes eventually reaching Haldon Forest and Haldon Belveder. A section along the Raptor cycle trail before dropping to Cockwood.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

A last minute decision to go cycling meant hurriedly putting the route together during the morning ahead of this ride. Luckily I had the route pretty much in my head, partly due to my have made a reconnoitre of some possible options on recent walks. I decided to include a section of what is described as a ‘family cycle trail’ to discover a little of what this is like, as Haldon now hosts quite a network of trails suiting various degrees of cycling skills, mine being ‘basic’.

Bridge (foot/cycle) crossing the A30

The good thing about this route is that it is relatively level and quiet on the early stage, and that would take me to the foot of Haldon Hill, therefore I would be saving my energy for the ascent. This was lucky, as it would be quite a climb to the top, and I should need every ounce of energy I could muster. On the way out I first had to cross the A30, and this is done over a walk/cycle bridge that spans the not inconsiderable width of road.

 

View of Haldon Hill on the approach

 

 

I then followed some reasonable easy, if somewhat muddy, tracks and lanes until I reached a point where there was a splendid view of what I had to do to reach the top of Haldon Hill. It’s a funny thing about hills, but they don’t look as challenging from a distance as the feel when you’re on them.

Haldon Gate - picnic spot

 

 

At Haldon Forest I entered the wood along a connecting track that joins a family cycle trail. This was rather a rough, pitted and muddy track, but quite navigable. The cycle track itself was solid and level, and I was soon at my lunch stop, a picnic site wonderful situated at Haldon Gate, just below Haldon Belvedere.

Haldon Gate - Haldon Belvedere (or Lawrence Tower)

 

 

After lunch I took a little time out to stroll up to Haldon Belvedere. This is a building that can be seen for miles around, but this is the first time I’ve seen it close up. It’s a rather charming and elegant building, if rather strange, particularly the fact that it has three sides. The building was constructed by Sir Robert Palk in 1788 in honour of his Anglo-Indian friend Stringer Lawrence, who’d donated a fortune to him. The views from here, both out across the Exe Estuary and over the city of Exeter are quite fantastic, and luckily the day was bright and clear and I could see for miles.

Haldon cycle track - Raptor

 

 

From the picnic spot I cycled back about 50 metres to pick up the Raptor Trail once again. After a brief climb I was enjoying level easy cycling through the pine trees of Haldon forest. The air was fresh and the colours beautiful making this a most enjoyable ride, and I had it all to myself. I suspect at the weekends these trails are likely to be quite busy.

Haldon Obelisk - view over Exe Estuary

 

By now the day was well advanced, being November, and I needed to make reasonably quick progress to maximise the remaining available light of the day. The cycling was mostly quite level that took me to my next vantage point, which was The Obelisk. Here there are some of the finest views over the Exe Estuary that there are to be found anywhere. I stopped briefly to take in the view and grab a drink before once again continuing my journey.

Cockwood

 

Then ensued several miles along Devon lanes, until finally reaching a rather steep descent into the back of Cockwood, along a road I hadn’t known existed. The cold blue light over the harbour at Cockwood was lovely, but fading fast.

From Cockwood I cycled the Exe Estuary Trail, at Powderham Church picking up the track that took me to the seemingly abandoned Turf Lodge. Here I followed the towpath along the canal to Countess Wear before beginning the final climb back up the hill to home.

I thoroughly enjoyed this day’s cycling, this having been the most extensive cycle ride I’d done in some time. I was tired come the end, as the climb to Haldon Hill is quite demanding, and I suffered a little cramp in my leg muscles when the air cooled as evening came on. I may be getting too old for this sort of thing, but somehow I survived my day.

Cycle Statistics:

Total Distance: 31.6 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 38min
Stopped Time: 55min
Total Ascent: 688 metres
Maximum Elevation: 258 metres

Buses: (none)

13 November 2010 – Walk: Exeter to Starcross (12.7 Miles)

Synopsis: Walk to include churches of Kenn and Kenton. In part, a trial of a potential cycle circuit. Set out from St Thomas Railway Station to shorten walk. The churches of Kenn and Kenton are most interesting!

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I had a potential cycle ride planned ‘on paper’ but decided to check it out on foot instead. The planned route was to take in Kenn and Kenton, and their respective churches, both of which are said to be of considerable interest. I had visited Kenn’s St Andrews Church quite recently, but had never visited Kenton’s All Saints Church. To make this a one way walk, I planned to catch the train home from Starcross, buying a return ticket to get me to St Thomas, to kick-start my walk. There was sun forecast for the day, but it started dull, and although the sun often ‘threatened’ to come out, it never quite made it.

Old Exeter City Corporation sign pointing the way to Pinces Gardens

I ploughed my way through the busy traffic-filled streets of Alphington glad to leave these behind me as I crossed the A379 that took me away from the congested city streets. I still had the sound from the busy M5 to contend with, but at least there was countryside all around me. My walk route, although ostensibly in the direction of Kennford, detoured slightly to investigate a potential cycle route (for another day), hence a the kink you see on the map (link above).

I rather liked this old council sign on the side of a building I passed on the streets of Exeter.

Kenn - old school

 

There was quite a bit of mud around, so I made an effort to clean my boots on the grass verge before entering Kennford. I was keen to take another look at what is now named the ‘Old School’ building, as this was my first school, some fifty years ago. It’s now been converted into a residence.

Kenn - old school - pump house

 

 

 

I’d not previously recollected that the school had the village water pump housed just outside of it. Peering in through the iron gating I could make out the sign that reads: “St Thomas R.D. (Rural District) Council – Please keep the pump house clean”. Rather quaint to see that another old sign has survived the passing years.

 

 

Kenn - St Andrews Church - ancient yew tree

 

I then Followed the lane past the school in the direction of Kenn, a route I would have once walked as a young school boy. The church of St Andrews is the first I saw of Kenn, as the village is slightly offset to the south, and today I wouldn’t be walking through the village centre. I was keen to take a look at the old yew in the churchyard, reported to be at least 1,500 years old. The tree certainly looks old, with its huge hollowed out trunk, rather reminiscent of the Ashbrittle Yew in Somerset I’d visited on a previous trip out with family.

Kenn - St Andrews Church

 

Inside St Andrews, it is the art work on the rood screen and Norman font that are most noteworthy, due to their antiquity. I also love the old pews that are ancient and knarred. A gentleman from a meeting taking place in the church came out and spoke to me, saying the pews are most uncomfortable to sit on. The thought occurred to me, although I didn’t say it, people don’t come to church to be comfortable. I’m sure the pews are extremely good for the soul, if not the bottom. He also spoke to me of a lily cross in the church, although I couldn’t make out where this was.

Kenn - St Andrews Church - old wood carved pews

Another gentleman from the meeting came and spoke to me. He pointed out a strip of timber wood carving behind the back pew that he described as being Elizabethan. It looked similar to the carving underlining the images on the rood screen. He said that a hospital in Starcross was for Cretins, who were people born without a thyroid gland, from the French for Christian, Chretien, something I’d not previously known. He explained that Starcross Church was built in Exmouth, dismantled, and shipped across to Starcross where it was reassembled. There are apparently numerous plaques in the church with dedications on them from this time. I must check this out sometime, as it sounds interesting.

Pointing the way forward

 

 

 

I’d spent rather a lot of time at St Andrews, because it was so interesting, and decided I needed to make up some time, so stepped out a bit, in the direction of Kenton. A road sign pointed my way forward.

 

 

Kenton - All Saints Church

 

 

The church of All Saints loomed up at the end of a long road of pretty coloured cottages as I entered Kenton. It was just after one o’clock so I first stopped and sat on a bench in the churchyard and had some lunch. I then entered the church by one of it’s main features, a large double-storey porch on the south side of the church, with ornate carvings. The faces on either side of the porch entrance are said to be of Henry IV and Joan of Navarre.

Kenton - All Saints Church - pulpit and rood screen

 

In the church interior it is once again the rood screen that is of most interest. A large and ornate wooden beam supported on slender perpendicular columns. Also very interesting is the intricately carved pulpit, saved from obscurity by the Rev S. Baring-Gould during Victorian times. There are paintings inlaid in the pulpit, of saints connected with Devon.

 

 

Powderham Castle - Fallow deer

 

 

 

My path then took me into the centre of Kenton, then on to the entrance to Powderham Castle, from where I was able to pick up a permissive walk/cycle track that runs through the grounds of the castle. I had a wonderful view of the fallow deer as I walked along this track down to the estuary road.

 

Starcross - railway station

It was only a short hop along the estuary road that was needed to take me into Starcross. The water of the River Exe estuary was calm, still and very peaceful. My 3pm train was due in 15 minutes, which was excellent timing. I briefly stopped in St Thomas to do some shopping before continuing my journey on the next train that followed one hour later.

 

 

 

A lot crammed into a short winter’s day. Country walking, interesting churches, and even a little shopping. For freely available further information on interesting churches of Devon, I recommend the ‘Some Old Devon Churches’ by John Stabb.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 12.7 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 26min
Stopped Time: 52min
Total Ascent: 273 metres
Maximum Elevation: 97 metres

Buses: None

Trains: Return ticket, Digby to Starcross (£4.00):

-  outward: disembark at St Thomas railway station.
-  return: disembark to shop in St Thomas before re-embarking from this station

08 November 2010 – Walk: Exeter to Ebford (12.2 Miles)

Synopsis: A walk from home cobbled together at the last moment. Included Clyst St Mary. Winslade Park, Clyst St George, Ebford and Topsham. Mostly lane walking. Exercise required after lazy Sunday.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

As mentioned in the synopsis, this walk was hurriedly devised during the morning of the walk. I set off from home at around 11am. Primarily intended as a chance to get some fresh air and exercise after a lazy Sunday celebrating my niece Sarah’s eighteenth birthday. Two previously ruined churches visited on walk.

Clyst St Mary - Half Moon pub

I rather liked this sign, perhaps hopeful, that is to be found on a wall of the Half Moon pub at Clyst St Mary. Now, just where are well behaved children to be found? You’ll note that it’s in the aptly named Frog Lane; being so close to the River Clyst, it’s easy to see why it would be named thus.

 

 

 

 

Wiinslade Park

 

 

First of the so named ‘previously ruined’ churches that I visited was that at Winslade Park. I was told by a woman arranging flowers in the church that there had been a ruinous fire in the church eighteen years ago that gutted the interior of the church completely. I commented on the rather unusual layout of the church, and the woman told me that the church had originally been the chapel of the nearby manor house. The organ is rather peculiarly situated over the access door to the church on the north side.

 

 

Clyst St George Church

Second of the ‘previously ruined’ churches I visited was that of the church of Clyst St George. There was an incendiary bomb from World War Two in a case mounted in the porch of the church. Under the bomb was the explanation that Germans had bombed Clyst St George with these devices in 1940 destroying a number of houses and setting alight to the church. The photographs on display show that the entire interior of the church was gutted. Quite why Clyst St George should have become a target for German bombing raids I really don’t know.

There is also a monument to the Gibbe’s family. I believe these are the Gibbs of Tyntesfield fame.

Topsham - Salutation Inn

From Clyst St George I attempted a route down a lane that took me past Marianne Pool, but this petered out leaving me stranded, so I returned to Clyst St George. From here I followed the road into Ebford and then took the lanes around the village, which I found to be fairly uninspiring, consisting mostly of bungalows.

I walked on to Topsham, taking a route down Fore Street, past the grand old Salutation Inn. This is an ancient hostelry that still has its old door through which carriages would once have once passed.

 

A local and familiar territory for this walk, but enjoyable all the same.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 12.2 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 25min
Stopped Time: 44min
Total Ascent: 245 metres
Maximum Elevation: 469 metres

Buses: None

04 November 2010 – Walk: Exeter to Dawlish (15 Miles)

Synopsis: A walk from home, picking up the tow path along the Exeter Ship Canal, and following this to Turf Lodge. Then on into Starcross, Dawlish Warren and finally Dawlish. A train hop home from Dawlish.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I set off on this walk without any definite intentions as to where I was going to walk. I lacked the mental stamina the night before to do the planning for a walk, but having spent the previous day indoors, I was desperate for fresh air and exercise. The forecast was good, so I thought I’d make the most of it.

Initially I started with the intention of walking to Kenn, but then decided I’d like to see the sea, so changed my plans to a walk along canal and river down to Dawlish. This is a route I’ve cycled on various occasions, but today I’d do it on foot. This does at least have the advantage that the footpath along the canal follows the old tow-path, affording good views of the Exeter Ship Canal along its entire length, whereas part of the cycle route runs along a track below the height of the canal. The plan was to make this a one way walk, in that I’d use public transport to get me home.

Exeter Ship Canal at Countess Wear

I always feel the Exe Estuary has a special light all its own. I can’t explain why that should be, it just appears to me to have a certain light quality, on a good day, that is not to be found elsewhere in Devon. The light constantly changes and can vary from the highly dramatic to the soft and diffuse. These varying light characteristics are of course very good for taking photographs.

Exeter Ship Canal

 

 

 

The day was warm, and the sun was putting in the occasional appearance, so I was soon in shirt sleeves. There were few people about, just the occasional walker, cyclist and fisherman. The hills all around were clad in trees of various autumn colours, the reeds along the canal fading into their winter colours.

Exeter Ship Canal - Turf Lodge

 

The Turf Lodge was looking stark in the acute rays of the autumn sun, and also looked pretty shut up for the winter period. Later I came upon a notice that suggested the Turf Lodge was open for weekend lunches only at this time of year.

 

 

Powderham Parish Church - St Clement

 

I made the church of St Clement, Powderham, my stop for lunch, finding a wall in the cemetery on which to purchase a seat. A beautiful spot to sit looking out across fields and the estuary bathed in the warmth of the sun. It would have been nice to also have had a look around the church, but unfortunately it was locked with a notice suggesting it was only open for services of a Sunday. I feel it’s always a shame when a church is unable to keep its doors open; most do.

Powderham Castle - Grounds - Fallow Deer

 

Setting out along the road after lunch, I was greeted with some lovely views of the fallow deer that graze in the grounds of Powderham Castle. They were quite close to the road, and tame enough, knowing I was looking on, not to be spooked by me. There was a superb stag in the herd, but he generally kept his head down, replenishing his energies for the current rutting season. There was a lovely doe that looked the perfect Bambi, so cute and pert in its spots.

 

At Starcross I discover that the ferry that plies its trade between here and Exmouth ceased operating at the end of October, and doesn’t start up again till Easter of next year. The idea had crossed my mind that one option would have been to catch a ride across to Exmouth, but that was not available to me.

Cockwood - The Anchor Inn

As I walked on towards Cockwood the skies darkened a little and I thought the weather might be on the turn. Children were playing in a nearby field and were certainly making themselves heard. The Anchor Inn was looking very picturesque and I could see a number of people inside sat around barely lit tables, looking very cosy whilst partaking of their victuals.

 

Dawlish Warren

 

 

Dawlish Warren was looking very bleak on arrival. All the shops were shut up and there were very few people about. There was a harsh cold wind blowing in off the sea, and the sun had become shy, failing to lessen the harsh effect of the wind. I contemplated catching the train out from here (this is a ‘buy ticket on train’ station), but thought better of it, choosing to walk on into Dawlish. I did after all have all the time in the world.

 

I was perhaps a little surprised to find that the little Red Rock cafe (shed) was open this late in the season. I love walking this stretch of coast path along the sandy red cliffs, because its delightful to see the sculptured shapes the wind and rain has made in the soft Devon red sandstone cliffs. Some workmen are doing some remedial work to protect the rail track from landslip.

Dawlish

I looked ahead to see if the coastal path into Dawlish could be fully walked, as there is a section that dips down close to the sea. The tide had been coming in during my walk, and by this time waves were crashing over this low section, and although I could see some walkers walking in my direction had evidently made it, just, I decided that the wiser course for me would be the high path.

 

 

Dawlish - railway station

 

I walked up to the train station to check train times and purchase my ticket. I then walked along the seawall down to Coryton Beach and back, and also did a quick circuit of the Dawlish park before heading back to the railway station to catch my train. I had a pleasant journey home in a modern and comfortable carriage, and arrived at my halt, Digby and Sowton, within about 50 minutes, which was quick and efficient.

 

I enjoyed this walk, despite it’s familiarity to me. I suppose it re-enforces just what beautiful countryside I have access to right on my doorstep. I’m just such a lucky guy!

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 15 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 36min
Stopped Time: 1hr 05min
Total Ascent: 209 metres
Maximum Elevation: 70 metres

Buses: None
Train: Dawlish to Digby,Sowton (16:43) £3.90 off-peak (after 8:44) single