09 June 2008 - Walk: Totnes to Buckfastleigh (7.21 miles)

Synopsis: A mishap starting out means I’m on the wrong bus, but the day works out, as I do my intended walk in reverse. A hot and humid mid-summer’s day.

Photo Set – Flickr

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Even when I'm wearing glasses I still manage to get on the wrong bus! Ah well, just another mystery tour. I'd intended to catch the express service to Plymouth, number 38, with my planned drop-off point being Buckfastleigh. I get suspicious when I do a tour of Bovey Tracey and Ashburton, whereupon I realise I'm on a number 39 bus. Ok, all is not lost, as I'm headed for Newton Abbot. There's a slim chance I can connect with a bus to Totnes, and walk from here to Buckfastleigh (so, ok, it's the reverse of what I had intended, but hey!). And yes, I did finally get to Totnes.

I had hoped to walk along the River Dart but the nice people in the Tourist Information Centre tell me that's only possible for a short stretch out of Totnes. On the fly I work out an alternative route that looks to take me through some nice countryside. A quick weather report: this turned out to be a hot and humid day with little breeze. This may not have been a long walk, but it proved very tiring.

Week - thatched cottages

My first stopping off place was Dartington, where I took a break and spent a little time browsing the glassware shop, careful all the time of my rucksac!

From Dartington I headed towards the small hamlet of Week, about 0.5km beyond Dartington. I instantly found myself in chocolate box Devon, with lovely thatched cottages lining the lanes.

 

Looking towards the River Dart

 

 

The fields are lovely this time of year, with the corn well grown and ripe, swaying in what little breeze there is. Much of the walk is in lanes, but these are very quiet. There appear to be the odd little gypsy like communities dotted here and there.

On approaching Buckfastleigh I noted a small grove by the river. I dropped down to the river bank to eat my lunch. Steam trains passed me by. Time for a cuppa.

Buckfastleigh Railway Station - train about to pull out of the station for trip to Totnes which takes about thirty minutes.

 

 

 

After lunch it was a short hop into Buckfastleigh, under the grotesque main road bridge which carves it's way through the town. I made my way to the station, where I noticed some cars of a vintage not too dissimilar to mine! I wiled away some time around the quaint old station. The station controller (fat or otherwise) was having fun on the Tannoy, probably bored. I doubt he would get away with that at Paddington!

I caught the 16.10 express (yes, number 38 this time!) out of Buckfastleigh for a quick journey back to Exeter. Doing the walk in reverse from what was intended was no bad thing, as I was able to wile away time pleasantly at Buckfastleigh Railway Station, and the bus out of here was faster than those that depart from Totnes.

07 June 2008 Walk: Malborough to Salcombe (10.56 miles)

Synopsis: This is a lovely stretch of coast that is relatively easy to do by bus. Inner and Outer Hope are just what a Devon seaside should be. A race against time, as the rains were on their way.

Photo Set – Flickr

 

Track and Photos - Google My Map

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Another early start - 5.30am to catch bus at 7.10. As I'm making breakfast to the sounds of the dawn chorus I hear the radio announcer say today's weather isn't going to be as good as it has been. Just for a minute I'm thinking this intended walk doesn't seem such a good idea. But hey, I'm up, so I’m thinking lets get on with it!

My first bus showed 15 minutes late, which was a concern, as I had to make a connection in Kingsbridge. As the connecting bus is scheduled to depart 12 minute after my bus arrives, my bus only has to make up 3 minutes and we get to connect, and that's what happened. I alight out of Kingsbridge at Malborough.

Interior of the church of All Saints, Malborough

The church All Saints Malborough (Listed Grade I) doesn't look very inspiring from the outside, but I entered anyway, to find the interior equally un-noteworthy. Having said that, it is Listed Grade I.

 

Sculptures in alabaster from the 14th century font of the now ruined Huish church

 

 

 

 

 

Further down the lane I picked up a footpath to Inner Hope. I notice from this footpath that the church in Galmpton looks more interesting than that of Malborough, and decide on a detour to inspect more closely. This church is quite modern, built in the 1860s, and somewhat arts-and-crafts in style. The treasure is to be found on entering, as there are some medieval alabaster carvings rescued from the old church of St Huish which this church replaced. The sculptures are exquisite.

Thurlestone and beyond, looking west

 

I picked up lane out the back of Galmpton that affords me amazing views towards Thurlestone, Bantham, Bigbury and Burgh Island. Lovely!

Outer Hope

 

 

 

 

The lane then dropped down into Outer Hope which in turn led to Inner Hope, both lovely places. Time for a quick snack before picking up the path that took me up on the cliffs, heading south towards Salcombe.

Soar Cove - beyond civilisation

 

I passed through Bolberry Down, the car park here was quite busy. This is a lovely spot. The path followed the cliff top for a while before dropping into Soar Mill Cove. There's a small beach here, in a beautiful setting. Completely without facilities, as there is no road to it. A stiff climb out of here took me to a rocky bluff where I stopped to have lunch.

Starehole Bay - rain clouds approaching

 

 

After lunch, as I set off, I could hear rumbles of thunder in the distance and soon saw dark clouds rolling in. I reached Bolt Head in the dry. The dramatic lighting makes Starehole Bay look really stunning. As I'm rounding the corner of this bay for the final stage of my walk into Salcombe it begins to rain and hail. Luckily I had an umbrella with me.

Salcombe - after the rains

 

I arrived in Salcombe with 45 minutes to spare before the 16.10 bus that will take me back to Kingsbridge. Salcombe was typically busy, but it's always a nice place to visit. I arrived back in Exeter at 18.40, having had the best weather of the day for my walk, thanks to my alarm clock!

18 May 2008 - Cycle Ride: Minehead to Dunkery Beacon (21.09 miles)

Synopsis: A hard day in the saddle. Making use of the many tracks that criss-cross Exmoor I cycled from sea level to Exmoor’s highest point, Dunkery Beacon. A day of fresh winds but plenty of sunshine.

Photo Set – Flickr

Track and Photos - Google My Map

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Am I getting too old for mountain biking? Probably! Well, lets just put it this way, as each year goes by the recovery period just gets longer. But this was an excellent ride, even though the stony tracks were tough going on certain parts of my anatomy.

The village of Dunster was first settled on the present site around 700AD and was first referenced in the Doomsday Book

I parked the car in Minehead, and made out for Dunster along a back lane. I probably dawdled too much in Dunster, enthralled by the quaintness of the place, which cost me a lot of time. Eventually I set out for Wootton Courtney, my first rest stop.

 

Gateway to the church

 

 

 

 

Wootton Courtney is a sleepy village of picturesque cottages. The setting is glorious, looking out towards Exmoor and Dunkery Beacon, my destination. I stop for a drink on a bench near the gate of the charming, and seemingly quite old, church.

Approaching the summit

Next I headed south from Wootton Courtney, picking up Spangate Lane. This rubble strewn lane is really hard going at first, but got easier as I progressed along it. Eventually, after crossing a field, I picked up a track that took me in the Direction of Dunkery Beacon, joining the lane near Kit Barrow Cairns. From here is another track up to Dunkery Beacon.

The cairn and horse riders

 

 

 

The wind was brisk and cold here at the summit of Dunkery Beacon. As I was taking photos a group of horse riders appeared, silhouetted against the early afternoon sun. I dropped a little off the peak to find shelter and have some rather late lunch.

It's the season!

 

 

 

 

From Dunkery Beacon I dropped via a bridleway to a lane, following which took me into bluebell woods by a stream. This would make a lovely location for a picnic, with a few parking spaces dotted along the lane. As I climbed out of the valley I picked up another bridleway, this time signposted Brockwells. This swooped around the hillside eventually dropping once again to Wootton Courtney.

Looking over Minehead

 

From Wootton Courtney I took a bridleway named Roadway Lane. This was a very steep climb, with little respite till I reached the top of Wootton Common. On the descent from here I was afforded a nice view between the trees out over Minehead.

St Andrew's Church and Queen Anne Statue

 

 

 

I entered Minehead at a district named Periton. Picking up Periton Lane, I followed this to the main road, then descended to the top end of Minehead High Street, dropping down to the sea front. Here I rested for a while and had a snack before returning to my car, parked behind Tesco.

10 May 2008 - Walk: Salcombe to Kingsbridge (11.15 miles)

Synopsis: A walk in a quiet, out of the way little corner of the South Hams. Buses and a ferry used to get me to my walk start point, then I’m on foot with the aim of finding my way back to Kingsbridge.

Photo Set – Flickr

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

An early start needed for this walk. I had to catch the 7:10 bus to Salcombe, so that meant getting up at 5:30. There were questions of 'Will it be worth it?' passing through my mind. But of course it was, and always is. It was a day of wall-to-wall sunshine, warm temperatures and beautiful scenery.

Kingsbridge, early in the morning, tide in

I arrived in Kingsbridge at 8:50, which allowed 15 minutes before the arrival of the connecting bus to take me on to Salcombe. Just time to purchase a drink (ok, I admit I left mine in the fridge at home), and a few photos by Kingsbridge Quay.

 

Looking across Kingsbridge estuary out to sea

 

 

 

I arrived in Salcombe by 9:20. A little ferry boat runs a shuttle service between Salcombe and East Portlemouth, which seemed to come into service at around 9:30. Once in East Portlemouth I was on my way.

Waterhead: a creek just south of Southpool Creek

 

The lanes were very quiet at that time of the morning. The lanes being as narrow as they were meant this was no bad thing. I had hoped to pick up a track at Waterhead, but I failed to spot it's origins and chose to follow the lanes instead. Just short of South Pool was a signpost indicating the route of the track (maybe next time!).

At head of Southpool Creek

 

 

I had lunch in South Pool, on the bench by the bridge that can be seen in the photos (just behind the geese). A little idyl. Then across the stepping stones and on my way to Frogmore. The views across the expanse of the Kingsbridge Estuary were glorious from the hilltops.

 

Early Flowering Purple Orchid

 

The hedgerows from Frogmore were full of wild flowers in bloom. They may be commonplace, but I couldn't resist the odd photo. I think that's an Early Flowering Purple Orchid, but if not, I'm sure someone will soon let me know of my mistake.

 

Kingsbridge: early evenng and the tide is now out.

 

 

 

 

I was back in Kingsbridge by 16:25, plenty of time for a drink and a snack before catching the 17.05 bus back to Exeter. A good day's walking! And yes, well worth getting up at 5:30 in the morning.