Synopsis: A coastal path walk full of varied and beautiful scenery. The walk takes in the lost village of Hallsands, claimed back by the sea. A lovely summer’s walk on a warm and sunny day.
The day started early at 5:30 once again, as I had to catch the 7:10 bus to Kingsbridge, and then on to Salcombe. There was quite a thick mist in Ludwell Valley Park as I headed on my way to the bus stop. I was hopeful that this might burn off with a bit of sun. I had my shorts and sun cream with me and was fully prepared for whatever the day threw at me, weather-wise at least. The bus was punctual, depositing me in Kingsbridge in plenty of time to catch my connecting bus to take me on to Salcombe. By now the sun was out and the day looked promising.
East Portlemouth - ferry landingIt was a short walk up the main street of Salcombe to the passenger ferry landing. As I began to descend the steps to the ferry I could see passengers coming up, so I knew the ferry had just docked. I hurried down the steps to see the ferry just setting off, but I hailed the ferry hoping he might pick me up, which he kindly did, pulling forward so that I could jump from the landing onto the boat. A passenger on the ferry said he saw me get on the bus at Kingsbridge. We chatted for a while. He was from Dorset and was down here for a week’s walking on the South West Long Distance Coast Path.
East Portlemouth - Mill Bay
It was only a little hop across the river and by a just after 9:30 I was on my way, initially walking through woodland until out on the headland. There are some nice beaches along this side of the river, so very accessible from Salcombe; it’s easy to see why this is such a popular holiday destination.
Looking across the water to South Sands
Looking over my shoulder I could see the beaches on the opposite shore, particularly that of South Sands. And just a little to the left, set back on the hill, the grey granite building of Overbecks (National Trust) was clearly visible on the hillside.
Gara Rock
The light was very hazy but it’s already very hot and humid making the walking hard work and tiring. There aren’t many people about on this stretch of the walk. I mostly come across fellow walkers, with just a small number of people on the various beaches down in the coves. As this stretch is not very accessible by car, I suppose the beaches don’t make very attractive family destinations, which is a shame, as the beaches are lovely.
Prawle Point
I was approaching Prawle Point and its coast guard lookout by just before noon, a little too early for lunch. I stop briefly for a drink and surveyed the next stretch of coast which I recognize as being relatively level and easy going, so I decide on clocking up some more miles.
The land north east of Prawle Point forms a kind of plateau, which is rather unusual for Devon coast line. I’m afraid I am unable to explain why it is like it is. There is a row of houses near Prawle Point which I presume to be accommodation for coast guard staff. Some people near here have obviously seen something special and are trying to photograph it. I ask them what it is they’ve seen, and they tell me it’s a curl bunting. I couldn’t see it, but I think I probably did hear it. Later on in the walk I did think I saw other curl buntings along the way.
Woodcombe SandsI passed a small secluded cove named Woodcombe Sands which seemed to be a pleasant place, the map suggesting there was parking near by, but just where I do not know. I see from the map there is a place named Lannacombe Beach just a little further on, and I decide to make that my lunch stop.
Lannacombe Beach
Lannacombe Beach, in its own small way is quite a thriving little resort, for those in the know. That is to say there’s obviously a select group of people who have made this there seaside of choice. It’s easy to see why, as it’s very much how you’d imagine a beach would appear in a Ladybird book. For those of you too young to know what I mean by that, please ask your parents for an explanation. The beach is quiet, calm, picturesque, and completely without a single amenity (i.e., perfect).
I couldn’t afford to dally here, so as soon as I’d eaten my lunch, including some part melted chocolate, I set off on my way. This was a good plan as it happens, because on checking the bus timetable I see that the best bus for me to catch at Torcross is the 15:53, which will need me to stretch out if I’m going to make it.
Start PointBy now Start Point with its lighthouse is well in sight. There is a high and rugged ridge that runs out to Start Point that makes this a very dramatic stretch of coast. In places the path hugs a very steep cliff along which it wouldn’t do to loose your footing, as you’d make a very quick exit from the scene. On the final leg approaching Start Point the path begins a gradual (thankfully!) climb towards the ridge top.
Hallsands, Beesands and Slapton Sands
I stop only briefly at this point to take a look at the view opening out before me. From here I can see a string of beaches panning out across a bay of deep blue sea; quite a picture. The beaches that I can make out are Hallsands, Beesandss, and Slapton Sands. Unfortunately I don’t have time to walk out to Start Point but have to follow the lighthouse road back up to the car park from where I am able to pick up the coast path again.
Looking south towards Start PointSince Lannacombe the sun has been quite strong making the beaches that lie ahead gleam white in the distance. The sea, dark blue where deep, azure blue-green in the shallow near shore, and the vegetation a lush green, makes for a wonderful range of contrast. When Devon gets to be this good, there’s nowhere better.
Hallsands - ruined village
The ruined old village of Hallsands is clearly visible from the path as I walk in that direction. There’s a viewing point that I drop down to, which is the closest you can get to the old village, as the way is blocked with signs warning of dangerous cliffs. I feel Hallsands is a haunting reminder of how the forces of nature are not to be messed with. It’s thought that the disaster was brought about by over dredging for pebbles needed to build Plymouth docks around 1907.
Hallsands - beachToday, in Hallsands, there has been some considerable investment culminating in a prestigious New England Style development on the hill top. I do think this is a pleasingly designed complex, not too large, and in keeping with local styles. There was a terrace of very dilapidated fishermen’s cottages just down from here, and I was curious to discover what had been made of these. Even these small dwellings had been given a makeover and were now looking very smart. An amazing change from their former incarnation.
Beesands
I descended to the Hallsands Beach from here and walked along the short shingle beach before climbing the next hill that separated me from Beesands. Beesands is larger in size than Hallsands, and a good deal busier. Today this may have been in part due to the fact there appeared to be a wedding taking place. Rather out of the ordinary, it is boats that have been decorated with white ribbons, not cars. Now, that has a certain style about it. Beesands is now protected, as Torcross is, with a substantial sea defence.
There’s a stiff climb out of Beesands along a narrow enclosed path. I find a family of ducks headed straight for me, obviously having to flee walkers coming in the opposite direction. Mother duck decided to fly, an option not open to the ducklings, who were frantically darting here and there. I’m quite confident once we had passed by mother duck would be back looking for them.
Torcross - Slapton Sands
Finally I make Torcross with just 15 minutes to spare before my bus was due. I did have to push quite hard to cover the distance in the time and was therefore looking forward to a little rest on the bus. I stopped to jot down my walk statistics as I always do after a walk, and found that my total ascent was quite high, another factor that would account for my tiredness. Although I’d not achieved an altitude greater than 117 metres, I’d climbed the equivalent of one of the Lake District’s highest peaks.
A great, if tiring day’s walking. This is a fabulous stretch of coast. It had been a lot of walking to do on a hot and muggy day, but it was well worth the effort. How lucky I am to live in Devon.
Ah! Camera failure! You will notice that some of my photos on this trip, particularly those from Beesands on, are marred by lines sweeping across the length of them. My camera of these last 6 years appears to be failing me. This feel like a sad loss, but I guess I’ll get over it.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 13.6 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 00min
Stopped Time: 43min
Total Ascent: 716 metres
Maximum Elevation: 117 metres
Buses: X64, 606 (Tally Ho from Kingsbridge £2.30) & 93 (First from Torcross £3.40)
Ferry: Salcombe to East Portlemouth (£1.40)
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