Synopsis: After numerous failed attempts I finally cross the Erme Estuary by arriving at low tide. Several steep ascents on way to Bigbury. Superb views of Burgh Island as I approach along the coast.
Another section of the South Devon coast path plugged this year, meaning I’ve now walked the entirety of the path west of Torquay. After setting out I had second thoughts about whether I’d chosen the best bus route. I could have cut down on the preliminary lane walking if I’d caught the bus to Plymouth (X38) and then the bus in the direction of Noss Mayo (94), and got off at Battisborough. That’s just a note for me, should I be repeating this walk and wishing to cut down on the leg work.
Mothecombe - Erme Estuary - Tide OutLow tide was set to be at 11:55 am for today, and I arrived at Mothecombe about an hour before then. I could see the tide was well out and therefore crossing the Erme Estuary was going to be no trouble whatsoever. As I stood on the approach to the beach a gentleman heavily laden with a large rucksack spoke to me. He asked if I was crossing, and I said yes, I was, and it looks like I’ve got the tide time right this time. He asked if I was also walking the South West Coast Path, to which I explained I had done that, but these days just go out and do a stretch once in a while. He told me about someone he’d met who was doing the walk in the opposite direction, as he’d done it anti-clockwise already. Apparently he told this chap he should do the walk from Lands End to John O’Groats, because it’s easier, even though it’s 300 miles longer. I sympathized with the chap telling me this story, who was finding the going hard. He was carrying a tent which I never did. He said that he was now retired and thought that as he had the time, this would be something to do, and he said he was enjoying it.
Looking across the Avon EstuarySo, I took my boots and socks off and waded out into the estuary. It was actually rather nice and refreshing, to dip my feet in the cool water on this hot and sunny summer’s day. Being a Friday it was relatively quiet, just a few beach goers here and there. I hadn’t realised that Mothecombe Beach itself is only open to the public on Saturdays, Sundays and Wednesdays. Anyway, little time to waste, so I hurriedly put my socks and boots on and seek out the coast path. I wended my way through some stunted trees which now and again afforded me lovely views out across the estuary.
A beautiful azure blue seaAt first the walking was light and easy but looking ahead I could see that there were some steep climbs ahead. Undaunted I ploughed on, blasted by the full heat of the sun. There is rarely any shade on the coast path, and certainly none afforded me along this stretch of the path. I’d set out this morning without packing any sun screen, but thankfully had the good sense to buy some in Totnes earlier in the morning. I wouldn’t have lasted long out in the sun today without protection.
Looking across the mouth of the River Erme in the direction of last week's walk.
Looking back west of where I was I could make out the walk I had done last week. I could see the wide dip of land on the skirt of which I’d parked myself to have lunch last week. I always gain a certain satisfaction from looking out over my previous feats.
Lunch spot, in the blazing sunChoice of lunch stop this week was going to be tough, because as mentioned, there was going to be no respite from the sun. Ahead of me, on the top of a cliff ridge, I could make out a bench, and decided that that might at least afford me a bit of a cool breeze. The spot did offer me a fantastic view which distracted my thoughts quite nicely. The best thing to do was going to be to eat my lunch as quick as possible and set out once again on my way. As I was packing my rucksack to go I could make out the gentleman I had been speaking to earlier, descending the hill slope opposite my perch.
Challaborough
Just before Bigbury is a beach resort named Challaborough. It has a pleasant beach, but few facilities. Behind it lies a very large holiday campsite. This provided the prelude to Bigbury, which was quite busy with tourists. I took some time out to wander across the spit of sand to Burgh Island to briefly take a closer look at the hotel opposite, named Burgh Island Hotel, funnily enough, and made famous by Agatha Christie.
Bigbury, nature reserve on the River Avon Estuary
Picking up the coastal path once again, this begins to drop down to a nature reserve at the mouth of the River Avon. There were splendid views across the mouth of the river over to the beach at Bantham, an old family favourite.
Tidal road approaching Aveton Gifford
After that there was yet more climbing to do, up through a golf course, before yet again dropping down to the tidal road that sweeps into Aveton Gifford. At high tide this road is lost to the sea. There are guide posts dotted along it should an intrepid motorist wish to try to navigate it at high tide. This stretch of the walk, from Bigbury to Aveton Gifford is part of a walk designated the Avon Estuary Walk, the other half of which I walked on 22nd May 2010, Kingsbridge to Aveton Gifford, when I was on the other bank of the River Avon.
A hard day’s walk with some steep hill climbing involved, all the more tiring on a hot June’s day, but I’m not complaining, honest. This was a walk through some of Devon’s finest coastal scenery, which is breathtakingly beautiful. And finally I got the better of the tide!
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 15.1 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 32 min
Stopped Time: 51 min
Total Ascent: 769 metres
Maximum Elevation: 110 metres
Buses: X64, 91 & 93 (First, £3.35)
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