Synopsis: A walk along Revelstoke Drive, the coastal path from Noss Mayo towards Mothecombe. No luck with the tide, and have to back track to Yealmpton to catch bus home.
As Basil would say, “What’s the bleedin’ point?” That’s to say, what is the point in spending time planning a walk and then not using it? Well, it’s like this: I planned a walk that would include a visit to Antony, a National Trust property, only to discover (thankfully) at the last moment that it’s not open on a Saturday. As I had no time to plan another walk I decided I would get on the intended bus to Plymouth anyway, and see what ideas came up. This walk is what came up, and jolly nice it was too.
This summer I’m trying to walk the whole of the South Devon coast path, plugging sections with each walk I do. I have a couple of western sections to plug, of which this was one. It’s not all that accessible, but there are buses that travel in the required direction. As I’d made an early start, catching the 6:55am bus out of Exeter, I could make an early connection with a bus in Plymouth to take me to Noss Mayo. I arrived at my walk start by about 9:30 am.
Noss Mayo is an idyllic place, and it was looking gorgeous in the early morning sun. The tide seemed to be in, as a tidal path I’ve used recently was submerged. I did hope that the tide might be out by the time I got to Mothecombe, as I had a route planned out from there if only I could cross the Erme Estuary, but this proved a forlorn hope.
The coastal path took me out along a creek with views back to Noss Mayo church on top of the hill, which struck 10am as I looked across the water to it. From here the coastal path took me down a lane through trees following along the course of the water. I passed the passenger ferry landing that I’d used on a previous walk in April, when walking in the opposite direction to that planned for today.
The path then snaked and climbed taking me out onto the headland from where there were sweeping views along the coast in both directions. I could make out the beach and church at nearby Wembury.
Here on the headland I joined the Revelstoke Drive. This is perhaps an odd place to find a drive. It is a wide track that follows the contour of the coast with very little in the way of gradients along it’s length. I suppose horse drawn carriages would not have dealt well with any significant slopes. Anyway, it makes for easy walking which was pleasing.
At one point I pass Bloody Cove. I’m intrigued to know how it came by this name. I did Google later that night, but didn’t find any trace of information. And there I was hoping for stories of pirate intrigue, or smuggling at the very least. I posted a picture to Flickr as I thought that it would amuse Helen and Laura.
The path cuts inland at Stokes Beach where there is a holiday park. From the coastal path I looked down on the caravans which are on a shelf close to the beach. There’s a row of dead trees, possibly Monterey Pines, close to the coastal path. I’m not sure what is more of a landmark, the dead trees or the caravan site. The dead tree trunks have been under-planted with some saplings, presumably the same tree type as those that have died. It’s nice to discover that someone has thought to replenish them.
Just a little further along from here the coastal path can be seen to swoop down and up again. Before considering how to tackle this I decide to stop high on the bank and gaze out on this view as I eat my lunch.
Not long after setting out on my walk again after lunch I came across this large rock in the landscape. The first impression I get is that this should be named Sheep Rock, as there are numerous woolly creatures dotted all about it. On closer inspection I find that this is named St Anchorite’s Rock. Once again, a subject for Google later that night, with a little more luck than Bloody Cove. The term Anchorite refers to a religious hermit in medieval times, and although I found no direct reference, I can only suppose this was once the site of a hermitage at sone time. Nice location for one. By now the clouds looked quite heavy and ominous, but I was hopeful they’d not come to much.
Approaching the Erme Estuary near Mothecombe I see that I’m not going to have any luck with the tide, as there is a lot of water in the estuary. Still the sun shone and the water was a terrific colour. There weren’t many people about which rather surprised me. I suppose the weather forecast wasn’t brilliant, and people stayed away. There were a group of youngsters swimming off Meadowfoot Beach (possibly braver than me), and a couple of families, but otherwise the place was very quiet.
Seeing that there was no way forward (I had planned to cross the estuary and walk to Modbury, but that wasn’t possible), I had to come up with an exit route. I walked up to Battisborough where I considered my options. Actually there weren’t many. I decided that Yealmpton was my best bet, as I could catch a 94 bus out from there, and this would connect reasonably well with a bus for Exeter from Plymouth.
One final word before I conclude this blog post. Not far from Dunstone, at the Bull and Bear Cross Roads, I passed these bull and bear gate piers. At the time I didn’t know what the significance of them was but whilst browsing the excellent book Curious Devon by Derrick Warren I came across their story, and quite intriguing it is too.
They are the gate piers to what was the Bull and Bear Lodge as built by the banker Edward Barings in 1877. That makes these the original bull and bear icons from which all others are derived, including that to be found on Wall Street. I think that’s pretty impressive. The bull represents speculation on a rise in the market, the bear on a fall.
Apparently the Bull and Bear Lodge was demolished in the 1950s. I’ve recorded some further details about the story against the photo in Flickr (simply click on the photo right).
What with adding in the distance to get back to a bus, this walk was longer than I had imagined it would be. I was glad of the opportunity to rest on the bus and write my blog. Another lovely day’s walking, and another section of the coastal path plugged.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 14.5 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 08min
Stopped Time: 40min
Total Ascent: 503 metres
Maximum Elevation: 112 metres
Buses: X38, & 94
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