Synopsis: A relatively light walk,not of any great distance. Time to dawdle in Strete and Stoke Fleming to compare old photos with how these places look today. Blackpool Sands looked glorious.
The weather for today promised to be very good, so my very early alarm call of 5:00 am was not too unwelcome. There’s so much daylight at this time of year, who wants to stay in bed anyway? So I was in good time to catch the 6:30 am bus to Totnes, which connected with the 111 to Dartmouth, which in turn connected with the 93 (First) bus to Strete.
DartmouthI had a little time to spare in Dartmouth, so I wondered around the attractive gardens taking a few photos to pass the time. It was nice and cool and very quiet at this time of day, an ideal time to savour the delights of Dartmouth. I was fortunate in that Mum had leant me her camera as mine had failed me on the previous weekend. I’d be totally lost without a camera, so I was grateful for the loan.
I really don’t think the road from Dartmouth to Strete was meant to take the large double-decker buses of today. Several times we found ourselves in jams and having to wait for cars to back up to let us through. Anyway, our driver seemed to be taking it all in his stride, but rather him than me.
Strete
The Kings Arms in Strete is easily recognizable today, having exactly the same terraces as it has in the photos of old. The ivy has gone, but otherwise it looks just as it did. The same can’t be said of the building further down the road, that is now completely missing, having been hit by a mortar during war time manoeuvres that occurred in this area as part of allied preparations for the D-Day landings.
Looking north east
I picked up a footpath from the road that took me out onto the hills in the direction of the sea from where the sweeping coastline south towards Start Point (last week’s walk) can be seen. There’s something quite satisfying about looking out on the miles of coast covered on a previous outing; I suppose it’s the “done that” feeling. That aside, the sweep of the bay looked stunningly beautiful in the mid morning sun.
Blackpool Sands
The path, after a very steep dip into a valley, cuts across the main road, picks up a dirt track, and then drops sharply into Blackpool sands. This has to be one of the most attractive beaches in Devon. Apparently it was a favourite of Agatha Christie, who lived during summer months just down the road at Greenway on the River Dart.
Blackpool Sands
The beach at Blackpool Sands is made up of a fine shingle, said to consist of fragments sea shells. This is perhaps the perfect material for a beach, as it both provides a comfortable surface to laze out on, and doesn’t cloud the water as sand does. The sea is in fact so clean and translucent it looks like one big swimming pool, although it is said the water can be quite cool.
Blackpool Sands
There seem to be two schools of thought on the origin of the name. One school suggests it has spiritual connotations, derived from the old Devon dialect word ‘blag’, denoting holy or sacred, a word often used to mark the boundary line between the parishes, here that of Blackawton and Stoke Fleming. The other school of thought (somewhat less imaginative) says it is simply a reference to the black pool of water that sits on the beach at the point where a stream runs across the sand. I leave it to you to decide which of these versions you favour.
Stoke FlemmingAfter a brief break on Blackpool Sands to have a snack and re-apply some sun cream, I then set off climbing the steep hill out of the beach in the direction of Stoke Fleming. The path follows the side of the main road before crossing it and picking up a lane that enters the back of Stoke Fleming. I believe walkers are then, because the streets of Stoke Fleming are narrow and busy, directed to continue on along this lane, but I wanted to drop down into Stoke Fleming, which is what I did.
I first stopped briefly to take a quick look around the church, but didn’t see anything that inspirational. I knew that some of the old photos had the church in them, so next I went in search of the location of these. There are a couple of houses that appear in these photos which remain very recognizable to this day. Unfortunately the land in front of these houses has been sold off and a new house has been built on it, somewhat obscuring the view these days.
Stoke FlemmingI get the impression the post office has moved too. I think it used to be in a narrow part of the road, but now it’s just around the corner. Then, taking the course up this ridiculously narrow main road, I eventually look back over my shoulder and recognize the location of more of the old photos. This part of the village is thankfully little altered, despite the traffic, from the days of old. I bet though it was a good deal more quiet and tranquil back then.
Looking south west
On the outskirts of the village the coastal path directs walkers off the main road down a very quiet lane, which comes as something of a relief. I immediately relaxed once away from all that traffic. A fair distance needs to be covered along this lane before a path is picked up at a National Trust car park. About 400 metres along this path and the views along the coast opened up to me once again, so, despite there being no shade, I chose this spot for my lunch.
St Petroc's ChurchAfter lunch my walk took me down to the shoreline which it hugs for some considerable distance before ascending into trees and then descending to the location of Dartmouth Castle. I didn’t go in the castle (English Heritage) but I did go in the nearby church of St Petrock’s. I’ve been in the church before and do find it rather austere. There is reference to a church at this location in a title deed that pre-dates the Norman Conquest, but the present church was virtually completely rebuilt in 1641. The church at one time operated a beacon light for ships, but this practice ceased in the 14th century.
Dartmouth - Bayard's Cove
I swept around Warfleet Creek, site of a substantial mill at which pottery is now produced. My route then followed the road up hill before picking up a path that dropped down into Bayards Cove where this is a small castle and an old quay fronted with attractive houses.
Dartmouth - Ice cream shop? Or is it? (family joke)
By the lower ferry I can’t help myself and have to take a photo of what used to be an ice cream shop that we frequently used when we were young. I, more recently, when out with my family, proudly stepped into here to proclaim to my daughters that this was where we bought our ice creams only to look about me and see nothing but spectacles. Yes, this has now become an opticians, and I am perhaps in need of their wares. Oh, the passing of time.
Dartmouth - Saint Saviour's Church - early doorOn entering Dartmouth I glimpsed sight of a church up a narrow street and decided to investigate, and was glad I did. The church was that of Saint Saviour’s Church. The first thing that I noticed on entering the church was that it has a west gallery, and there aren’t too many churches that do in the south west. The next thing I noticed was the rood screen on which I could detect some very early painting. On checking this later I found that the rood screen dates from 1480. Then I notice a very unusual carved altar table, which subsequently I discover this dates from 1490. And then, as I was about to leave I notice the door that I’d walked past on entering without giving heed to how special it is. I subsequently discover that it is indeed unique, dating from about 1340, but refurbished in 1631. It has wonderfully crude lion braces on it. After finding all these amazing things in this church it was little surprise for me to discover that it is a grade I listed building. What a little treasure.
Dartmouth
By now it was time I gave some thought to getting home, for which I had no real plan. I decided I’d like to travel through Torbay so I crossed to Kingswear on the Lower Ferry and from there caught a bus to Paignton.
This walk took me along some of Devon’s finest coast. The day was glorious and sunny, perhaps a little too hot for walking, but I’m not going to complain. It had been a superb day with so much that was beautiful and interesting.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 9.8 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 46min
Stopped Time: 1hr 39min
Total Ascent: 448 metres
Maximum Elevation: 121 metres
Buses: X64, 111, 93 (£3.55), 120 & X46
Plus: Ferry crossing from Dartmouth to Kingwsear (£1.10)
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