Synopsis: Walk started with a swim. i.e. I walked to Topsham for a swim, and then caught a train to Teignmouth. Walked a loop inland from Teignmouth before joining coastal path into Shaldon.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
I’d been at Topsham Swimming Pool the day previous to this, in the afternoon, when there was a ‘float’ session taking place. The pool was full, and I obviously wasn’t going to get a good swim. I was told mornings were better, particularly if it was raining, as that deterred the young. So, I came up with this alternative plan, a combination swim and walk. Well, with the station being right on the doorstep of Topsham Pool, it seemed an obvious choice. It would make really good use of my time. And, put into action, this plan worked out really well, as I’ll outline below.
As I wasn’t due to reach Teignmouth until 12:32 I decided to have some of my picnic lunch on the train, as that way I could clock some distance before breaking for further sustenance. The odd shower was forecast, but on arriving at Teignmouth station, all was set fair. I aimed to take the shortest route from here to Shaldon. Once across the Shaldon Bridge (Grade II Listed), that spans the River Teign, I branched right following the estuary upstream.
As I made my way, I had a good view of Ringmore (Grade II Listed), the rather eccentric looking house that stands right on the waterfront. It has always struck me as something of a folly, what with it’s castellated roof line and tower, and that I believe sums it up. I discovered the building is in fact listed, and on reading the details from its entry, found that it is described as ‘Scottish Baronial style’. What with The Ness being nearby, there would appear to be a strong Scottish influence in this neighbourhood.
On reaching the village of Ringmore the path I was following deviated left along the banks of the River Teign, I suddenly realised the next stretch, although relatively short, was tidal. Luckily the tide seemed to be far enough out for me to have a chance at this. It was comforting to find I wasn’t the only one on the river bank. There were people, I think from the camp site that runs right down to the banks of the river, who were strolling about, skimming stones, and generally milling around.
I was looking for a way out of here. I had plotted a route that picked up a track. I was rather alarmed when I deduced that my way was up a really precarious looking set of steps. I was careful how I went, and didn’t feel particularly at risk, but was surprised by just what a poor shape these steps were in. I’m fairly agile and have reasonable strength, but many would not find this route at all easy.
Once up the steps the going became a lot easier. I was following a rough track which took me back to the road, which I crossed to pick up a track heading up the hill. I was walking the rather euphemistically named Dagra Lane. The track was very rough and rutted in places, which was manageable, my being on foot, but I couldn’t perceive any vehicle coming this way, other than perhaps a tractor. However, it is rather an interesting name, and I feel rather unusual for Devon. I don’t know the origins of its name.
I was making good steady progress as I gradually climbed the hillside. I thought it would be good to achieve the majority of the height gain before breaking to eat what was left of my lunch. I was within a very short distance of the lane Forches Hill when I was confronted with this large pool of water. I couldn’t see how to get past, short of taking my boots off, which today I wasn’t keen to do. I’d noted that there was an alternative, not too much longer, route that I could take, if this way became a problem. I backtracked and picked up this alternative route
My deviation was easy going, if a little overgrown. The route followed the contours of the hill, only dropping in height very slightly. I was soon on the lane named Forches Hill, from where I returned to the course of my intended route. I was now headed out on a track rather quaintly named Butterfly Lane. The views from this hill ridge down to Teignmouth and Shaldon are superb. I chose a field with unobstructed views down to the river to break for something to eat and drink.
After lunch, I proceeded along Butterfly Lane from which, to the right, there was this wonderful view out over Babbacombe Bay. I eventually reached a T-junction, from where I branched right dropping steeply towards the busy Teignmouth Road. This was always going to be rather unpleasant. I had to carefully pick my way along this traffic laden section of coastal road until I could once again pick up the coast path.
At the stile leading into a field a group of ladies were pondering a small heard of cows. They weren’t sure if it was safe to proceed. I could instantly tell they were young heifers resting in the sun and they weren’t going to cause harm to anyone. This I informed the ladies, to which they said they’d watch me go through first. Whether they ever did follow me into that field, I really can’t say.
Once I’d gained the hill ridge the view, a view I’d experienced on several occasions, never fails to take my breath away. I reckon it’s one of the finest views in Devon. The Ness stands prominent in the foreground, masking Shaldon, with Teignmouth visible just beyond. And the whole sweep of coast past Exmouth and on eastwards towards Charmouth, can be seen from this point.
It’s quite a steep drop from this point, following the hedge that runs along the cliff edge. The path then levels before rising to a viewpoint on the Ness, from where one looks out on Teignmouth, across the mouth of the River Teign. This is another amazing view, one that I never tire of.
I dropped from here, heading in the direction of Shaldon, but rather than continue into the village, I cut across the car park and up the hill. My purpose being to enter the old garden of the Homeyard’s. It’s a tranquil garden and one I’ve only recently discovered. It is quite simply planted, but it has some nice corners. I particularly like this area around a small pond. I wonder if it wasn’t used at one time by the Homeyards as a paddling pool, as there are steps down into the water.
Today, the park contained sculptures made from recycled materials. They’d been made by people from such groups as the Women’s Institute and Shaldon’s Over 60s Club. They were imaginative and well done, and added colour to my walk.
I didn’t stay long in Shaldon, as pleasant though it is. Instead, I chose to dart across the road bridge back into Teignmouth, and pick my way out to the seafront. Here I discovered there were more sculptures made, once again, from recycled materials. I found a bench next to this giant snail to stop for a snack and a drink.
That concluded my walk. It was now simply a matter of my strolling across town to the railway station to catch my train home. My rather impromptu plan of a swim and a walk had worked out really well. However, by the time I reached home, I was rather tired, for some reason. But it was the best kind of feeling tired.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 15.61 km / 9.7 miles
Moving Time: 3 hrs 51 min
Stopped Time: 0 hr 33 min
Total Ascent: 412 metres
Maximum Elevation: 166 metres
Buses: (none)
Trains: Topsham / Teignmouth off-peak day return with Devon and Cornwall railcard £3.10
… Normal ticket price without railcard discount (33%) would have been: £4.70
Train out: 11:36 – 12:32 (0hrs 56mins) – no changes
Train return: 17:51 – 18:34 (0hrs 43mins) – no changes (to Digby & Sowton)
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