Synopsis: A minor walk, with a good deal of time spent at Knightshayes (National Trust). Followed the Tiverton Leat out, entering Knighthayes along the Impey Walk. Kitchen garden a treat to see.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo album – use link above to view album)
We were in the middle of a heat wave so if I was going to go for a walk then it would have to be something not too strenuous. I decided upon catching the bus to Tiverton and from there walking out to Knightshayes (NT). I was initially a little baffled about just where to catch the bus from Exeter city centre to Tiverton as the bus station is in the process of being closed down. It dawned on me that buses were now using bus stops in the streets surrounding the bus station. So what I needed to do was find the street in which my bus stop was located; I eventually found my bus stop in Paris Street.
I arrived in Tiverton a little after 11 o'clock. The town centre has some interesting buildings although much of the area was redeveloped in the 1960s. This photo shows the town Hall. Nearby, Coggan's Well [my photo on Flickr], Tiverton's water source for many years, was looking sad and arid in the summer sun. From here I began my walk following the course of the Tiverton Leat from the centre of town.
Tiverton Pannier market is just a short walk from Fore Street, through a narrow arcade. The word pannier is derived from the French, meaning basket. It wasn't a full market day. But there were stalls doing business, such as this one selling groceries. From the pannier market I continued my walk following the Tiverton Leat. It wasn't long before I was out in the countryside. Although I knew I was not far from a Knightshayes it was not visible to me as it is surrounded by mature trees.
As I approached Knightshayes along the country lane I soon came across a path to my left that was labelled the Impey Walk [my photo on Flickr]. The wide path from here led me into a grove which offered some most welcome shade. This path that I followed sweeps around the back of Knightshayes which it then approaches near the stables. The stables now functions as the reception, café, shop and plant sales for Knightshayes.
Entering Knightshayes (I am a member of the National Trust) I headed for the lawn that is situated between the stables and the house. I found some shade under a tree where I sat to eat my picnic lunch. From where I was sat there was a lovely view over the park land [my photo on Flickr] of Knightshayes studded with mature trees. And beyond that, views out over the Devon countryside and the rolling hills in the distance.
After I had eaten my lunch I decided to explore the kitchen garden. For many years this area was laid waste but in 2001 the decision was taken to restore the kitchen garden to its former glory. This was my first opportunity to explore this garden, and I am so glad that I did. The kitchen garden is now a real feature of a visit to Knightshayes. The kitchen garden serves both a practical purpose, that of meeting the needs of the. Stables Café, and also forms a recreational walk area with many interesting plants to be found within it.
Whilst walking around the kitchen garden, on approaching the furthest high corner of this garden, I came across a gate in the wall. Near the gate a sign indicated a Douglas Fir walk. The kitchen garden itself was very hot, offering no respite from the blazing sun. But this sounded like a cool walk in amongst the trees, too good to pass-up on a day like this. It was only a short walk. But really relaxing with not a soul about.
I now approached the house; this photo shows the glaring sunlight that greeted me as I did so. Once again I was eagerly anticipating some shade indoors from the heat of the day. The architectural style of Knightshayes is Victorian Gothic [Wikipedia] (or Gothic Revival or neo-Gothic if you prefer). It is flamboyantly romantic, possibly a reflection of the opium fueled cravings of the architect, William Burges [Wikipedia]. I think it is quite charming.
This bronze bust of 1941, in the main hall of the house, caught my eye (for obvious. perhaps lurid, reasons). As I stood there looking at it a steward came over to explain that it was one of 3 busts on display by the sculptor Jacob Epstein (1880-1959) [Wikipedia]. This bust is named Deirdre [National Trust Image Library]. Apparently the model for it was Kathleen Balfour, a close friend of the family, according to the National Trust steward.
I know this is going to seem rather odd when I say this, but this is one of the prime reasons for my coming to Knightshayes today. It is only a copy, and a low-grade copy at that, but something about this work when first I saw it in April of this year, told me there was something interesting behind it. On returning home I undertook some investigation into the origins of The Lady and the Unicorn (on Wikipedia, where else). This is based on one of a series of 6 medieval tapestries to be found in the Museum of Medieval Art in Paris. The series is considered one of the greatest works of the Middle Ages in Europe. Isn't that interesting? The National Trust steward that spoke to me was at pains to stress that this is needlepoint not tapestry [Wikipedia].
After completing my tour of the house the next stop for me was the formal gardens. It was time for me to once again brave the intense heat of the day. I passed through the conservatory on my way out, which serves as a café. This was an oven, and understandably empty This photo shows well the scorched grass of the front lawn at Knightshayes.
The rigid structure of the formal gardens are a delight, especially the lily pond. Supplementing this structured garden is a less formal planting regime in amongst trees which on a day like this was considerably more comfortable for the shade that it offered. There are some lovely trees in this part of the garden. One of them, a Cornus,[my photo on Flickr] was a stunning mass of white flowers.
It was time for me to be on my way so I headed for the main drive of Knightshayes. I walked down the drive to the lodge from where I followed a lane that led me back into Tiverton. I Walked through Tiverton's People’s Park (1887) [Parks and Gardens]. These grand gates are to be found at one of the entrances to the park.
I didn't have to wait long for a bus from Tiverton back to Exeter. I was soon home again, very tired from the exhausting heat of the day, but having enjoyed a superb day out that was full of interest.
An impression of the weather today from news articles:
• UK weather: First time home nations hit 30C in five years – BBC News 28/06/2018. I’ve no doubting that.
• Heatwave puts pressure on water supplies – BBC News 28/06/2018.
• UK heatwave: Photos show dramatic impact on River Teme – BBC News 05/07/2018.
Follow-up story on event in July in Tiverton’s People’s Park
• Mid Devon remembers the Suffragette movement with tree planting ceremony – Twitter 26/07/2018
Further reading on Knightshayes: (123) Heathcoat-Amory of Knightshayes Court, baronets [Landed Families of Britain and Ireland – Blogger]
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 10.78 km / 6.7 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 36min
Stopped Time: 30min
Total Ascent: 215 metres
Maximum Elevation: 172 metres
Buses: D & 55
Explorer bus ticket: £8.30 (purchased on first bus of the day)
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