Synopsis: I was in Totnes the previous week, but on the opposite side of the River Dart. Today’s walk was a short trek to Ashprington. A brief visit to Totnes Castle (EH) prior to setting out from Totnes.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
As mentioned in the synopsis for this blog post, I was in Totnes one week previous to today, and at that time looked at a map and noticed that there was part of path the on the western side of the River Dart that I had not walked. I also noted that it formed part of the John Musgrave Heritage Trail, parts of which I’ve walked on numerous occasions. I decided then and there that I’d like to make a repeat visit to Totnes to this walk.
Whereas last week’s walk was done by bus, today’s walk I decided to do by train. Since my start and end point would be Totnes, that would be easy to achieve. It only takes me about an hour to get to Totnes by train (exact times are shown below). This is a really convenient destination for me.
On arriving at Totnes station I made my way across Totnes to Totnes Castle (EH). Since I am an English Heritage member (having subscribed last year), I thought it worth making a brief return visit to the castle prior to my setting off on my walk. It’s a great little castle with a tremendous view over Totnes and the surrounding landscape. I chatted for a while with the very friendly EH steward in the visitor’s kiosk. This image (left) I grabbed from an information board. The aerial view shows the castle in relation to the town and river.
After having visited Totnes Castle, I continued up the hill out of the back of Totnes. It was a bit more of a climb than I’d at first anticipated, so I took it steady. I was at least aware that this would be my one and only climb of the day, therefore it made sense to not rush at it. The narrow winding street soon gave way to become a dirt track from which the whole of Totnes could be seen.
Mud? Yes, there was some considerable mud in places. At this time of year I expect that. Nothing obstructed my progress. Eventually I joined a lane and at that point my climbing was largely behind me. I followed this quiet lane along the hill ridge lined with Monterey Pines, heading in the direction of the village of Ashprington. The sound of whistles from the steam trains on the South Devon Railway accompanied as I went on my way.
Approaching the village, I diverted from the lane to pick up a track that followed the contours of the hill. This was the most direct route for a pedestrian into Ashprington, but, once again, there was considerable levels of mud to be waded through. I did wonder if I’d arrive in Ashprington in a fit state to be able to visit the church.
Ashprington is a very pretty village. I’d last visited it on a walk way back in 2008, and recalled it’s appearance from that time. I was snapping a few photos when a girl on a bicycle whizzed by, coming out of nowhere. She reminded me of my youth, along with my brother and a friend, spent in a small village, never without our bicycles.
There were benches in the village centre, but I caught sight of a bench up on the hill by the entrance to the church, which I took a fancy to. I supposed it would offer a fine view down the village and far beyond to the hills in the distance. I was absolutely right in this supposition. The bench made a perfect lunch stop.
The girl on a bicycle, mentioned above, rode by, and stopped to chat for a while. She told me she’d lived in the village all her life, all eleven years of it. She told me she liked living there. It wasn’t hard to see why.
After having eaten my lunch I walked into the church cemetery and attempted to scrape what mud I could from my boots. I concluded I was just about presentable enough to enter the church. I wouldn’t class the church as vastly interesting, since it had obviously had a heavy-handed restoration done to it. I think I liked the carved reredos best of all.
From Ashprington Church, I had to climb a little further up the hill in the direction of Sharpham. I passed the gates which I supposed to be the entrance to Sharpham House. I discovered at this point that a cycle trail has been laid between Totnes and Ashprington. Although not quite the route that I had originally plotted, I decided that I would follow the cycle trail as much as was practical, since this was a good surface to walk, was not too steep, and afforded good views out over the River Dart.
It was interesting to watch the various craft sailing up and down the river as I walked. It’s a very pretty stretch of river. Some parts of the River Dart are not very accessible to the public. It’s nice that this stretch of the river is easily reached from Totnes and that it affords such lovely views.
As I approached Totnes I could make out the path I had walked the previous weekend. Today, there was some form of rowing event taking place on the river, and various row boat crews were rowing in the Totnes direction. I heard one young boy on the far bank shouting, ‘Come on Grandpa,’ evidently proud of his antecedent’s exploits.
I arrived back in Totnes with plenty of time to spare before needing to catch a train home. I decided to walk up the main street of the town as far as the market that I had briefly seen in the morning. There was a real bustle of activity in the town. Totnes has a certain unique ‘folky’ character. It’s quite unlike any other Devon town, and non the worse for that.
Just time for me to pick up a yoghurt in Morrison’s for the train journey home, before picking up a path to Totnes railway station. This, and all the trains today, were very punctual. I was soon being whished along at great speed in the direction of home.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 15.48 km / 8.8 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 41min
Stopped Time: 43min
Total Ascent: 372 metres
Maximum Elevation: 152 metres
Buses: (none)
Trains: Digby & Sowton to Totnes – off-peak day return with Devon & Cornwall Railcard: £4.90
…… Normal ticket price, without railcard discount (33%) would have been: £7.40
Train out: 09:12 – 10:12 (1hr 00mins) – one change at St David’s Station, Exeter
Train return: 15:31 – 16:28 (0hrs 57mins) – one change at St David’s Station, Exeter
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