Synopsis: Part familiar, part new, this walk in the South Hams. Brief visit at Berry Pomeroy Castle (EH). Lunch not far from Fleet Mill. A short stretch along the banks of the River Dart at Totnes. Mud galore.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
As stated in my synopsis, elements of today’s walk I know quite well. These were mixed in with some untrodden elements, to make for a really enjoyable walk. There was the occasional shower, some of which were hail showers, and plenty of mud. It’s the time of year for mud.
There’s a short stretch of dangerous main road to walk from the bus drop-off at Littlehempston Cross, which has to be negotiated very carefully. It’s worth the trouble, since the walking from that point on is peaceful and quiet. It was overcast and rain was threatening, but I could see the odd glimmer of blue sky which gave me hope for the day ahead.
There was one point early in my walk my planned route led me to a lane swamped in muddy water which was impossible to negotiate. I could see there was an alternative route, so I back tracked a little and took that. I was soon approaching the tiny village of Berry Pomeroy. I knew the church was notable, so I detoured slightly to spend some time there.
On entering the church porch I came upon Marianne Dashwood and Colonel Brandon lingering there. Well, not quite in person, but in the guise of a poster image showing their marriage in the church, as portrayed by Kate Winslet and Alan Rickman. I had known that a number of the filming locations for the film Sense and Sensibility were in Devon, but hadn’t realised until today that Berry Pomeroy was the location of the wedding scene. Seemingly to cash in on this fact, the church now offers ‘matching’ romantic weddings for those with such an inclination. Lacking one bride, I continued on into the church.
Berry Pomeroy Church is delightful, and its setting very pleasing to the eye. It has a mix of old and new. Some of the old of significant historic interest, due to the Pomeroy family connection and its links to royalty. The church has had something of late makeover, as many have. Today, I chose to focus my interest on a couple of the late stained glass windows. Although Victorian and later stained glass often has its detractors, there are the occasional fine examples, and two such I feel exist in this church. These are stained glass designs created with flare. A little gaudy? perhaps. But breaking from tradition and unashamedly modern. Quite beautiful, to my eyes at least.
My next objective was Berry Pomeroy Castle (EH). A track led me into a field through which I slowly climbed until my way led me across a road and into a lane running in the direction of the castle. Descending along the lane amongst trees I soon reached the castle. It’s quite a popular tourist destination, and there were numerous other visitors at the castle. The café was open. I only wished to stay a short while since my primary objective today was a country walk.
Berry Pomeroy Castle has a two-phase history. Initially a fortification, and then, almost, a country house. I say ‘almost’, since this second phase was never fully completed, although it did reach a height of some grandeur in this guise. It is an atmospheric ruin, and well worth a visit. English Heritage have done a fine job in interpreting the castle’s history with useful information panels and an audio guide.
From the castle I descended to the lake. The Lady of the Lake was nowhere to be seen, nor the entrapped Merlin. Not wishing to be entombed in a tree myself, I noted the spring flowers under a tree, the castle in the background, and then walked swiftly on.
It was rather a steep climb up a lane from the lake. Eventually I reached the crossroads on the brow of the hill. A tree stands majestically in the centre of the road, silhouetted in the sun. The road sign proclaims this junctions as Hangman’s Cross. Presumably this majestic tree once played a role in the activity so described, but I think it might be forgiven for that.
By now the sun was putting in a more consistent appearance. The contrasting light of cloud and sun made for dramatic scenes that flitted by as I walked. I was attacked by the odd hail shower, but, hood up, I survived these unscathed. I passed Fleet Mill, which seems to exist in the middle of nowhere. I saw a grass bank in the sun, looking out on the brook that feeds Fleet Mill, and decided to make that my lunch stop.
Setting out again after lunch, I followed the brook for a while, then began to ascend a boulder strewn track that joined a lane at the top of the hill. I was approaching the outskirts of Totnes by this time. My aim was to walk a stretch of the River Dart, but I was a little uncertain how best to reach the river. This was further confounded by the fact that a new housing estate is under development. My first mistake was to pick up what I believe was once a connecting green lane, which I found to my cost was barricaded at the far end. Luckily, evidently along with others before me, it was possible to pick my way through the blockage.
Further down into the development I could see where I was approaching the continuing works. The road was barricaded at this point. I saw a resident in her front garden and asked if there was a way to the river. She explained that there wasn’t at this time, but eventually it was intended that a way would be provided. This wasn’t a major obstacle for me today, as I’d spotted a path leading further down the valley a short way back, so I headed for that. Continuing down beyond the new development, I was able to trace a path that led me down to behind quayside buildings. From here, turning left, I approached a car park, at which point I joined the path that runs along the river bank.
As is often the case, being by the river was an enjoyable place to be, and there were many others taking the same pleasure. The River Dart and its setting here in Totnes looked a treat in the bright rays of the afternoon sun. Although I’d visited Totnes on various occasions in the past, I’d not explored this side of the river before today.
I asked a young lady walking down a trail towards me where it led. She said she was probably the worst person to ask, but added that the trail led only to a water sluice gate. She explained that she was from France. We chatted for a while. She asked about walking to Dartmouth, and I explained it was possible, and that she’d see the route on Bing Maps. She explained that she would be attending a ‘gastronomique’ lecture at Darting Hall. I couldn’t resist replying, ‘That’s interesting, a person from France comes to England to learn how to cook.’ She smiled, and said, ‘You have your foods, fish and chips, and your puddings.’ I’m pretty sure the French are not so taken with our style of traditional cooking. As charming as the young lady was, we went our separate ways.
The sluice gate I mentioned in the paragraph above controls the water in and out of a small lagoon beside the river. This manages the salt levels in this lagoon, thus creating a controlled wildlife zone. The path beside the river ends at this point. I therefore turned about and began my walk back along the River Dart towards Totnes. It’s a pleasant walk, well used by the local dog walking community and families with young children on bikes.
On reaching the bridge over the River Dart at Totnes I checked the time and noted that a bus was due within fifteen minutes. As the next bus after that would mean a wait of 2 hours, it made sense to catch this earlier bus. In fact this bus pulled up just as I reached the bus stop, which was pretty convenient. It’s only a journey of about an hour on the bus back to Exeter, and so it wasn’t long before I was home once again. It had been a lovely walk.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 19.6 km / 12.2 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 30min
Stopped Time: 1hr 02min
Total Ascent: 441 metres
Maximum Elevation: 157 metres
Buses: X64 & D
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