Synopsis: Superb coastal path walking, but stamina required for the very steep climbs. Worth the effort. Includes the beautiful gardens of Colleton Fishacre (NT) accessed from coast path.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
This is a repeat of a walk that I did with family members, including my two daughters Helen and Laura, many years ago. No dip in the sea this time, although the water did look very inviting on this hot and humid day. Just as before, this day out was done on public transport, but this time I used a combination of train and bus. For the very first time, I made use of a Plusbus ticket. A Plusbus ticket is a supplement to the normal train ticket, and provides unlimited bus travel for the day at either the originating or destination vicinity of your journey (prices given below). Although information on the Internet suggested it was possible to purchase such a ticket at the ticket vending machine at the railway station, this didn’t appear possible, so I purchased my Plusbus ticket from the conductor on the train.
A fairly early start to the day, with a 6:00 am wake-up, catching the 8:40 train to Paignton, whereupon I arrived punctually at 10:00 am. It was a lovely warm and sunny start to the day, and I enjoyed the journey down by train, as it is such a scenic route. The train wasn’t excessively busy, just a few family’s making a day out of it.
I had a little time to spare in Paignton before my bus for Hillhead was due at 10:30 am, so I dallied around the adjacent station of the Paignton Steam Railway company. A carriage was beginning to fill with passengers, and there was quite a long queue for tickets, so most obviously a popular attraction on this summer’s day.
Back to the bus station for me, to catch the 10:30 am bus from Paignton to Hillhead. Hillhead is little more than its name suggests. There are a few scattered houses and a camping site. I had to be careful not to overshoot my bus stop, for which my handheld GPS is most useful, as there’s little warning that you’re approaching Hillhead. Once away from the busy main road, a little way down a lane, the path picks up a track, and I was on my merry way.
Although my walking distances today were not long, I was keen to make good progress. The reason for haste on this, my first leg, was to reach the gardens of Coleton Fishacre (NT) where I hoped to eat my picnic lunch. From Hillhead, as one might surmise, my way was down, following a track through trees for most of the way, before entering fields just above Scabbacombe Beach. A bit of a trek for those with deckchairs, parasols, buckets and spades, but a great place for quiet relaxation, if only one had the time.
I noticed that ponies were grazing on the not inconsiderable slope of the hill I was about to climb. I believe the ponies are used as part of the land management programme for this area. It did appear to me that much of the turf had been grazed away, which I found a little startling, but I presume this is all part of the ‘strategy’.
Once I had climbed to the cliff top and out on the headland, the views really opened up. And it is that which makes walking this stretch of the coast path such a pleasure. The far reaching views are simply stunning. I was also appreciative of the strong cooling breeze that I was now exposed to.
This panoramic photo gives a good impression of the views along this strech of coast.
I had a couple more quite steep hill climbs to the tops of cliffs before I was finally on the approach to Pudcombe Cove, which is where the lower entrance to Coleton Fishacre is to be found. On my final approach, about a 100 metres from the entrance gate, I was able to look down into the cove, and there, far below, I could make out the ruined remains of what was once a seawater bathing pool used by the family living at Coleton Fishacre.
I took a little time out to appreciate the coastal views from Pudcombe Cove before entering the gate to Coleton Fishacre. The entrance prices are shown on this gate (although I’m a member anyway), but fees aren’t collected at the gate. One is expected, on trust, to pay at the main entrance, just above the house.
The first thing that immediately struck me on entering the gardens was how marvellous the tree ferns were looking. There are also areas of swamp garden near the stream that trickles down the centre of the garden, these areas containing such plants as gunnera and skunk cabbage.
The benches I came across on meandering through the delightful gardens were all in the sun, so instead, I settled (literally) on a spot on the lawn under the shade of a tree to eat my lunch. What was immediately evident to me was that, despite a significant breeze on the coast path, here, in the shelter of this valley, the garden sits in a sheltered suntrap which was very warm. It’s easy to see why the plants love this garden.
After lunch, I strolled around the gardens closest to Coleton Fishacre house. I walked out to a viewpoint that looks down the length of the garden and out to sea. Stunning! The most striking plant in the garden at this time was probably the patches of lampranthus, which were very vivid in colour, almost electric.
Oh! and I discovered they also have a Beschorneria Yuccoides. This is me showing off newly acquired knowledge. The best example I’ve seen of this plant is that to be found at nearby Greenway (NT) (see: Greenway, Torquay 014), seen a few years ago, but it has taken until now to discover the name of this plant.
I duly had myself accounted for at the main property entrance kiosk, for, despite being a member of the National Trust, the property claims an amount for my visit today. I then climbed the lane to the brow of the hill, and headed along an adjoining lane in a south-westerly direction. Part of the reason for my choosing this route was that I wished to take a close look at the daymark to be found along the way. This is clearly visible from the coastal path, from which I’d seen it on numerous occasions, but a closer inspection was long overdue.
The daymark I speak of is to be found just inland of Inner and Outer Froward Points. Of its type, I think it one of the most elegant, almost a work of art. Built in 1864, it is 25 metres tall, and is most imposing, and oft photographed, which didn’t stop me taking yet another. Well, the light was near perfect for a photograph, so that’s my excuse. Another daymark I’m aware of is that to be found in Cornwall, at Gribbin Head (see: Par to Fowey 056).
I was soon back on the coast path once again, having skipped a section from Pudcombe Cove, missing a number of steep ascents (I hear you cry ‘cheat’). From Inner Froward Point the path drops through trees until it reaches Mill Bay Cove. I was dreading reaching here! I know well enough from past experience, the worst climb of the day is steeply up steps from this point. Somehow, despite a struggle, I got to the top.
Just off the coast from here is to be found the remains of Gomerock Tower. This was the place from which a chain was once draped across the entrance to the River Dart, reaching from here to Dartmouth Castle (EH). The precise location is shown on this map from Historic England, but, unusually, no further information is shown on this page.
From here I began to enter the outskirts of Kingswear. I noticed I’d come slightly high and away from the coastal path, but on dropping lower to pick it up again, I came across a sign indicating the path was closed, due to a cliff fall. There have been many in the South West over recent years.
It wasn’t long before I was down in the centre of Kingswear. A quick check of my watch and I became aware I’d just missed the 16:00 bus, and had a little over an hour to wait for the next bus. That suited me fine. I took a moment’s rest and a drink on a bench on the railway station platform. I then wandered along the platform, watching a huge, 12-carriage train, pulled by an enormous diesel engine, pull out from the station. All the carriages appeared to be dining cars. I assume it was some form of charter.
On reaching Paignton I found that my train was a bit delayed, which gave me time to rest and eat an apple whilst I waited on the station platform. It wasn’t long before I was on my train and headed home on a busy, but not overcrowded, train. I was quite tired, but had enjoyed the day very much. If you have the stamina, this is a great day out from Exeter.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 14.5 km / 9.0 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 39min
Stopped Time: 1hr 16min
Total Ascent: 581 metres
Maximum Elevation: 166 metres
Buses: 120 (Paignton – Kingswear)
Trains: Digby & Sowton / Paignton off-peak day-return (FGW): £7.30 + £2.50 = £9.80
(Purchased train ticket from vending machine, Plusbus ticket from conductor on train)
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