Synopsis: In search of a Giant Rock, which was harder to find than one might expect. Lunch at Babbacombe, followed by a bus hop to Brixham and then a walk out to Berry Head.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
Some time ago I came across a couple of images of Giant, Rock, Watcombe. The old images showed a really spectacular scene, a large outcrop of rock of a scale rarely seen in Devon. The only other place where something comparable might be viewed in Devon is on Dartmoor, where many of the granite tors are equally imposing. But there is a caveat to what I say, in that, as mentioned, these images were of a scene viewed a century ago. I well suspected what I would see today would be very different to these images, but that simply made today’s excursion all the more intriguing in my mind.
I had done a considerable amount of background research before setting out today. I had examined old maps of the area, on which Giant Rock, the subject of these images, is very clearly marked. The fact that Giant Rock isn’t marked on contemporary maps pre-empts the likely outcome of today’s trip.
The one other old image of this location that I’ve come across is this ‘Giants Rock, Watcombe’, a beautiful lithograph, which shows a view more expansive than that of the photograph, a view that leads the eye down the Valley of Rocks to Watcombe Beach and the sea beyond.
By overlaying an old map of 1906 on the contemporary Ordnance Survey map it was possible to clearly identify the location of Giant Rock. The impression I got from doing this was that the modern day car park is approximately where the old carriage turning circle was in days of old. It was only a short 10 minute walk from being dropped by bus in Pavor Road to the car park off Watcombe Beach Road. On arriving at the car park I was immediately struck by the similarity of the terrain ahead of me. The escarpment was (just) discernible through the trees.
Before entering the woods I crossed the car park to examine an information board I had noticed in one corner of the car park. I gleaned from the noticeboard two pieces of information regarding Giant Rock: 1) that it was acknowledged that the view of the rock today has “… now become less distinctive with the natural regeneration of trees.”; 2) this land was at one time part of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s estate. I suppose the implication of these statements is that the land was once cleared, presumably to open up the view, but has now returned to a more natural state.
To my mind, this represents one of the few cases where a little tampering with nature would be justified. Today one would, without the aid of these old images, have little notion of the spectacular view that had existed at this location. I suspect, sadly, there’s a poor business case for opening up the view, as Watcombe Beach, although a favourite spot of mine, is hardly a tourist honey spot. Still, I had at least satisfied my curiosity, this area, in The Valley of Rocks, is indeed the location of Giant Rock.
It was very peaceful in the woods below Giant Rock. I had only the birdsong to keep me company. I grabbed what photos I could of the glimpses of Giant Rock between the trees, but nothing was going to do justice to the old images.
The path I was on connected with the coast path which I began to follow in the direction of Babbacombe. Travelling on a bus earlier I had noticed the lettering on the side of an electricity substation and I made a mental note to inspect more closely later on in my walk. Unfortunately my view of it was rather confined by the works taking place around the building. I did however manage to capture a couple of photos of the signage. Very evocative of the period in which the building was put up.
After lunch I walked across the grass lawn on Babbacombe promenade towards a bus stop in the main street. A bus from here took me to Torquay Strand from where my next bus, already waiting, would transport me to Brixham via Paignton. This is a very scenic route along the seafront which can be best appreciated from the top deck of the bus where it’s possible to sit back and enjoy the ride.
I knew I wouldn’t have much time to spare on reaching Brixham so I urgently set about my prime objective which was to walk out to Berry Head. I chose this as a supplementary activity to the Giant Rock visit. Quickly browsing the Internet this morning looking for ideas I came upon a page on the Torquay Riviera Global Geopark site that spoke of an audio tour for Berry Head, and thought that would make an interesting diversion.
I walked around Brixham harbour, along the bay and then climbed through the trees up onto the headland. Once through the impressive thick walls of the fortress I saw the visitor centre to my right and made my way across to it. There was a video presentation running so I took a seat and watched this introduction to the history and wildlife of Berry Head. Whilst sat watching the presentation I fumbled with my mobile phone and tablet computer in an attempt to find the reputed Bluetooth connection, but no service was found. I also checked the Berry Head web site, but I could find no mention of an audio tour. I had to admit defeat and simply make do without.
I noticed a bird hide not far from the Visitor Centre, perched on a ledge just below the fortress wall. I found a bench and opened one of the viewing slats. I was looking out across the bay to a cliff face on which I could just make out hundreds of guillemots nesting on the shallow ledges and fishing in the sea beneath. Luckily I had binoculars with me as the birds were a considerable distance from the hide. Apparently the waters here are protected from boats and fishing, so that this important guillemot site is not disturbed.
Leaving the bird hide I made my way out to the extreme point of Berry Head. There are tremendous views from here in both directions along the coast. Although a strong wind was blowing, the air was mild. I stood on the cliff edge looking down the sheer face of the cliff to the sea far below. Just around the corner from the point the large expanse of a disused quarry came into view.
On the return walk from Berry Head I passed the Shoalstone Pool that was being prepared for the summer season. Volunteers were out sprucing up the swimming pool with a splash of paint here, and a broom there. This is one of few such seawater pools in the country still functioning as a swimming pool. I admire the fact that it is kept up and always looks pristine, no doubt due to the endeavours of a, to be highly applauded, army of volunteers.
I couldn’t resist snapping a shot of this building on the Strand, Torquay, as I was waiting for my bus home. It’s been sharpened up through the addition of some very smart signage around the trim of the canopy. To my mind, this was just the right finishing touch the elegant Art Deco building needed. It’s usually the nearby Art Deco Queen’s Quay that grabs my attention, but this too is a little gem. Classic corner windows and layered detail to the facade. Good to see buildings of this period being treasured after many years of neglect.
Well, that was my day today. A day of two parts, both of which highly enjoyable. Nothing too strenuous, but hey! even I get an occasional day of gentle relaxation once in a while.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 7.7 miles (Giant Rock, Watcombe: 3.4 Miles -:- Berry Head: 4.2 Miles)
Moving Time: 2hrs 47min
Stopped Time: 1hr 26min
Total Ascent: 376 metres
Maximum Elevation: 120 metres
Buses: X46, 34 & 12
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