Synopsis: Familiar territory for me, but good exercise all the same. I felt like a stroll in the woods, and Stoke Woods is the one closest to where I live. The woods were alive with the sound of birdsong.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
The weather forecast predicted a gradual deterioration in the weather later in the day, therefore I didn’t want to waste time travelling out to a walk start, so I walked from home. I cut across both the Hamlin Lane and Priory Park parks which soon got me to the foot of Stoke Hill.
I took a moment out to survey the area near to St James’s Church. The church is a new construction, replacing a church that once stood in St James Road (where the football stadium is to be found today). The new church was dedicated in 1956. Information about the church it replaced can be found on Lesser known and lost churches of Exeter at Exeter Memories.
I stood by The Stoke Arms public house to take my photo of St James’s Church. Possibly the church and the pub are the two buildings to catch a person’s eye at this location. But the building that is listed is neither of these two. It is actually the building named Rougemont Cottage (Grade II Listed), a small black and white building, which is quite rare in post-war Exeter. I believe this corner was known as Stoke Hill Gate (see: Stoke Hill Gate 01 & Stoke Hill Gate 02). Note similarities in door, chimney placement and lantern. Gabled roof has been replaced with a hipped roof. A water pump is visible on the right side of gate.
It’s an attractive building which I was about to say had the misfortune of being located on a very busy road junction. As true as this is, one should not lose sight of the fact that this was once a busy and important trade road into the city, as it stands on an ancient route, the northern access route over Stoke Woods to Exeter Quay. The straight-line nature of the route of this road, which hints at its past importance, over Stoke Woods, along Posloe Road, and down Barrack Road, can be traced today.
Interestingly, as if to attest the one time importance of this route, there’s a very old looking road sign by Rougemont Cottage that is marked ‘Old Tiverton Road’, thereby staking claim to its past glory. The significance of this route waned once New North Road was opened, a new route that negated the steep climb over Stoke Woods (see notes against photo above for further information).
Next came my big(ish) climb of the day, up Rosebarn Lane, which took me to the top of Stoke Woods. From here I was looking for a small entrance into the woods at the corner of the woods, since a path was indicated on the Ordnance Survey map. The entrance point was indeed visible, and so I entered the wood, but soon found the path indistinct, and simply had to progress through the woods as best I could until I connected with a proper track. My advice would be to proceed further along the road to a car park and enter at that point, as the way will be more clearly marked from there.
Stoke Woods was alive with birdsong as I walked along the track. The air was pine fresh, and there was not a soul about. I saw this wild flower, a Yellow Archangel, quite an attractive flower, if you get up close and inspect it. Great name too!
Crossing, with great care, the busy main road, I was immediately following the banks of the River Exe. Another careful crossing, this time the main rail line to Paddington. That should be last of my death-defying feats on this walk. I could see Jane Austen’s Woodrow Barton on the hillside, and just had to have one more photo for my collection. Apparently Jane Austen holidayed in this neighbourhood.
Just below Pynes (another Jane Austen linked house), I crouched beside gorse bushes to eat my lunch, in the hope that they might offer me some protection from the rather chill wind. It was a splendid view, looking out across the Exe Valley, with Stoke Woods providing the backdrop.
As soon as I’d finished my picnic lunch I was once again making tracks. There were plenty of grunts emanating from the pig farm that’s just below Pynes, and plenty of pig smells too. There are some lovely old trees along this part of the walk, especially the lolloping cedars.
After a little lane walking I then had to walk the road toward Exwick, a stretch I was not looking forward to. This road is always very busy and there’s no verge on which to walk. I had to keep a constant alert for cars speeding along this road. Sadly there’s no more pleasant alternative to doing this. I had to grin and bear this 1 mile to Exwick Mills.
The Exwick Mills building intrigues me. Although not large, it has all the appearance of a northern mill. It seems rather out of place here in Exeter. Certainly a unique building for Exeter. Sadly it appears neglected and run down. I rather surprised its not considered worthy of some protection, since it symbolises an unrepresented slice of Exeter’s industrial history.
The quality of the walking improved at this point, as it’s possible to deviate away from the road just past Exwick Mill. I picked up the track beside the flood relief channel, near to the weir and large mechanical flood gate. Glancing across the water I thought I saw house martins, but I had my doubts. I later read in a newspaper article that sand martins have been nesting in the flood barrier for several years, and that’s what I must have seen today. I walked on following the course of the flood relief channel as far as Miller’s Crossing, a pedestrian suspension bridge by the Mill on the Exe public house.
I broke my walk on a bench just outside St Pancras Church, which sits smack bang in the middle of the modern Guildhall Shopping Precinct. Whilst taking a drink I noticed some people exit the church. Ah ha! it was open. That was a rare occurrence. After I’d rested for a while I strolled over and into the church.
It is thought that a church has existed on the site of St Pancras Church (Grade II Listed) since pre-medieval times, as St Pancras was a Roman saint. Also in support of this theory is the fact that the church is askew to the medieval street plan, suggesting it predates it. It is noted in the listing that, ‘Such small form churches are relatively rare survivors.’ Hemmed in it may be, but pleasing to see this venerable building surviving into modern times.
The cooling air and a slight threat of rain meant that after visiting St Pancras I made haste and headed off on my way home. As always, I’d experience plenty that was refreshing and interesting, and it was little matter that the walk route was quite familiar to me.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 12.2 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 08min
Stopped Time: 43min
Total Ascent: 416 metres
Maximum Elevation: 162 metres
Buses: (none)
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