Synopsis: Following the River Culm and then the River Exe along a path linking Broadclyst with Cowley, with a touch of ‘Crikey, It’s Vintage’ thrown in for good measure. Quite a mixed bag of goodies.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)Crikey, it’s Robert! No, I don’t mean that. If I said, “Crikey, It’s Vintage”, what would that mean to you? That’s what I thought. I hadn’t heard of any such thing until just a few months back. Then I discovered that, whomever they are, they were having an event at Killerton (NT). Since I’m a member of the Trust, and members are entitled to free entry, and out of sheer curiosity, I thought, especially as I’m a bit of a retro man myself (more by accident than design), I’d pop along to find out just what such an event was like.
I had mentally sussed out that a walk along short stretches of both the River Culm and the River Exe would be possible in this area, but that was during the winter of floods that we were experiencing, and somehow I didn’t imagine this was the walk to be doing at that time. If, like me, you would be contemplating a similar such walk, and like me, doing it by bus, I will mention that this walk can be achieved from Exeter on an Exeter Day Rider from Stagecoach, which is extremely cost effective. Details of the buses I used today are given below under Walk Statistics.
It is actually possible to travel as far as ‘Budlake, Killerton Turn’ bus stop on an Exeter Day Rider Plus ticket, but I chose to disembark at Broadclyst with the intention of walking to Killerton which I could do on an Exeter Day Rider ticket (see Stagecoach Day Rider for regions and pricing). I noticed on the Killerton web site that they make mention of a ‘Killerton to Broadclyst cycle trail’ (a PDF map from the NT I’ve made available here) and I thought that sounded interesting and new, as this didn’t exist the last time I walked in this area. Trouble was I couldn’t find a map of the route online, so I fell back to mapping the public footpath route that I’d used on a previous occasion, and this I had stored on my handheld GPS. A little way into my walk however I came upon a way marker for the cycle route, and decided I’d follow that route instead.
Broadclyst - water conduit
I snapped a few photos at the bus stop in Broadclyst where I was dropped. I noticed an old water conduit. At least that’s what I think it is. It’s nice that it still remains here, as I’m quite sure it will have been many years since it had last seen useful service.
Point at which I connected with the way marked cycle trail to Killerton House
This was the point at which I picked up the ‘Killerton to Broadclyst cycle trail’, except I was going in the opposite direction in that my destination was Killerton, and I was on foot. Just as I had thought, a new gravel track section has been inserted here to connect with lanes. I was joining this partway a little way out of Broadclyst. The whole route between Broadclyst and Killerton National Trust property can now be cycled on nothing more busy than the back lanes of Devon. I think it’s a very useful addition to facilities of this area.
Budlake Post Office (NT)
I passed the Budlake Post Office, which I noted was National Trust, and is often open to the public, although not at the time that I happened to be passing by. It would be open later in the day. It’s coloured in the Killerton yellow of all estate houses. You’ll find them dotted all around this landscape.
Killerton House (NT)
On arriving at Killerton House (Listed Grade II*) I sat on a bench for a while as I was a little earlier than the opening time of 11am. I was amazed at the numbers of people who were already turning up today. Quite obviously Crikey, It’s Vintage is a big draw in this area. Seeing the entrance queue was quite long, I wiled away a little more time in the second hand book shop that operates out of part of the stable complex. I was lucky enough to find a copy of Battlefield Walks Devon, a superb history guide to the numerous battles fought across Devon at various times in history.
Killerton House (NT) - Crikey It's Vintage event
The stewards were actually very efficient at checking people into the property today, so it wasn’t long before I was strolling across the well manicured lawns of Killerton House. I couldn’t spare a lot of time for the special event here today, so I headed straight for the various tents which were already thronging with people. The event is mostly a series of stalls of ‘vintage’ goods for sale. People had collected an amazing array of things which were delightful to see, and yes, some of the very retro items I remember all too well.
It’s also lovely that quite a number of people dressed in period costume, visitors as well as operators of the stalls. Ladies were in patterned cotton dresses, high heels, bright lipstick, and wearing nylon stockings. What does one make of all this? Well, everyone was having a lot of fun, and it quite obviously is very popular, and all I say is, ‘Why not?’ I suppose one could call it a form of escapism, a desire to live for a moment in another time. With all the rush and stress of life today, I can sympathise with that. Sample some further escapism at Vintage Retro Delights.
Killerton House (NT) - Crikey It's Vintage event - food safe
Now I just have to ask this. What would you call these boxes? We had one of these when I was young, in the years before we had a refrigerator. We referred to it as a ‘safe’. It was used to store fresh food that we wanted to keep insects, and for that matter anything else that might be passing, away from it. The metal grids were designed to allow air to pass over the food, thereby keeping it relatively cool, but keep the little blighters out. Whatever they’re generally called, I did see a number of them at today’s event.
Killerton House (NT) - Crikey It's Vintage event - Bedford Doormobile (1962)
There were a number of vintage cars on show. A few military vehicles too. The vehicle that I think I liked best was one that passed me as I got off the bus at Broadclyst. At the time it hadn’t clicked what an extremely old doormobile like this was doing on the road, but half-way to Killerton it twigged, this was part of today’s show. I overheard the owner of this Bedford doormobile say that it sleeps 5. Everything looks to be on a much smaller scale to what you see on the roads these days. But I can imagine the spirit of adventure was probably much greater back then than the comparable experience today.
Killerton House (NT) - Crikey It's Vintage event - 1930s style caravan - interesting concept
Something else that caught my eye was this teardrop caravan. I overheard a conversation in which it was said that these are based on a 1930s design. It was so tiny. Teardrop caravans of a modern design are available on the market, but this one was, in keeping with the theme today, decidedly retro, which I think gives them a dash of style. I think they’re available from Retro Teardrop Trailers, who operate out of Penzance. See further photos here.
Killerton House (NT) - house being consumed by the forest
I needed by now to be on my way and continuing my walk. I climbed steadily up through the gardens of Killerton House until I reached a stile that took me out onto a public footpath that crossed a field and entered Killerton Park Woods. This path winds it’s way back down the hillside through the trees, passing this strange ivy strewn house that appears as if it’s being inundated by the forest.
Killerton House (NT) - Chapel of Columbjohn
I reached the particularly quaint little Chapel of Columbjohn on the Killerton estate. It’s a little building big on charm, although I don’t think it has great architectural merit. But the door and its hinges looked rather interesting (compare with Buckland, Berkshire, on English Buildings blog). It wasn’t open and the wind was blowing a gale so I ducked below one of the churchyard walls and there I sat to eat my lunch.
River Culm
The Chapel of Columbjohn is on the River Culm. From here I continued along lanes and then into fields to eventually cross the River Culm near Rewe where a large manor house looks down on you as you approach from this direction. I tried to gain entry to the church in Rewe but it was locked with a notice pinned to the door stating that it is only open by special arrangement, which was a shame.
Returning to the main road I followed this for a short distance before descending a green lane towards the railway line which I crossed with great care, as trains hurtle along here what with it being the main route between London and Penzance.
River Exe
A little way further into my walk and I found myself beside the River Exe. The river seemed to be flowing quietly and gently on this mid-summer’s day, with little suggestion of the raging torrent it can become in the winter. Rivers are fickle like that.
Brampford Speke - Parish Church of St Peter
Following a familiar path into Brampford Speke which leads to the parish church I thought I’d try the door of this church. This time I gained entrance to be be greeted instantly by a couple, saying to me, “This is what you should photograph.” Taken aback slightly at first I took a look at a brass wall plaque that adorned the wall by the door. This was a commemoration to a Mr and Mrs Pine-Coffin (I forget there exact names), and that was what was amusing them. It is rather an unusual name, and one that eventually became their destiny.
A brief ray of sunshine on an otherwise gloomy summer's day
I have to include here a photo of some sunshine. This was a rare commodity today, and that’s why I just had to include this photo in my blog post. Thankfully I was quick enough with my camera to capture it. I somehow think the UV rating for today was likely to be at the low end of the scale. Striving to be positive, I will say that today’s weather could at least be considered much healthier than a day of full sun.
A good day’s walking with plenty of variety, and all within spitting distance of home. I understand the National Trust has come under some criticism for hosting Crikey It’s Vintage, accused of dumbing down the Trust’s function. My view is that the event seemed to bring many people a lot of pleasure. People had come to Killerton House who might not otherwise have visited, they made the place feel alive, and, come Monday, Killerton House will have returned to its normal tranquillity none the worse for the weekend activities. Well, that’s the view of this erstwhile curmudgeon for whom Crikey It’s Vintage added to the enjoyment of this most pleasurable day.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 12.1 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 44min
Stopped Time: 1hr 41min
Total Ascent: 416 metres
Maximum Elevation: 108 metres
Buses: D, 1A & H (Stagecoach Exeter Day Rider: £3.60 – see ‘Tickets to Go’ leaflet available from bus station or tourist information centre)
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