Synopsis: A day to dodge the showers where one could. Church of St Mary, Berry Pomeroy was one such opportunity. Walking to Berry Pomeroy Castle I was not so lucky. I did get to see Ragged Robin.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)I nearly overshot my bus stop. Having climbed down the stairs to the lower deck I glanced around and couldn’t find a stop bell push. There’s usually one at the bottom of the stair, but not this time, so I wound up frantically lunging towards the back of the bus for a bell which I rang just in time. A couple of ladies standing at the bus stop, Littlehempston Cross, waved there arms vigorously as my bus approached them to indicate they didn’t require the bus, not aware that I had requested the bus stop there. These two ladies, evidently Swedish from the charming lilt in their speach, said they’d only just got off a previous bus. We were amused that a remote country bus stop that probably is seldom used had suddenly become so busy. I explained I was headed in the direction of Berry Pomeroy Castle. The ladies said they were headed in the opposite direction, as they were making their way back to Newton Abbot.
My first destination on today’s walk was the village of Berry Pomeroy as I was keen to visit the parish church of St Mary. Walking along tracks and lanes there were many wildflowers in bloom. On my walks I always keep an eye open for flowers, especially any that I don’t immediately recognise. I spotted these yellow flowers which I didn’t recognise, but later identified, I think, as Smooth Hawksbeard.
As I approached the village of Berry Pomeroy a lady walking in the opposite direction to me had to, along with me, duck in to a passing place to allow a car to pass. I had a lucky tip-off from this lady.
She had taken some photos of wildflowers on her mobile phone and she showed me Ragged Robin and Yellow Flag. I was particularly keen to hear about Ragged Robin which, as is said on Wikipedia, “In Britain it has declined in numbers because of modern farming techniques and draining of wet-lands and is no longer common.” I can vouch for that, as I’d not been able to find it. The lady kindly explained that she’d seen it near the lake below the castle, a lake I knew well. As we parted I made a mental note, I’d be taking a detour to the lake, not in search of the lady therein, but Ragged Robin, dressed in pink.
It’s hard to sum up quite what I made of St Mary’s, parish church of Berry Pomeroy. The previous night I’d checked and as I thought, the Church of St Mary is indeed Grade I Listed. However, it seemed to me (admittedly no expert), that the passage of years and heavy handed restoration had left little early fabric intact. That said, there is much to see in the church. Before I entered, standing in the rain, I noticed this splendid display of, admittedly very common, Valerian, leading from the lych gate.
Berry Pomeroy - Church of St Mary - wagon roof and rood screen
The wagon roof which runs uninterrupted from nave through chancel is impressive. The rood screen has medieval paintings although faces have been erased. The top of the rood screen, the pulvinated frieze, is very finely carved.
Berry Pomeroy - Church of St Mary - stained glass in the north aisle
The stained glass windows, although quite late, I rather liked. Typical of their time they are rather vivid, but in tasteful colours and to designs showing quite some artistry. I particularly liked this window in the north aisle. I feel it has an Arts and Craft quality to it. I also rather liked the brass chandeliers which are rather elegant and a very nice touch.
Berry Pomeroy - Church of St Mary - north aisle Seymour monument 1613
The most outstanding items to be found in St Mary’s are the tombs. There is a simple tomb to the Pomeroys in the chancel which has lost the numerous coat of arms once displayed on it. And in the north aisle there is a tomb with richly carved figures above it. There is also a plaque on the wall commemorating Reverend John Prince who authored “The Worthies of Devon”.
Berry Pomeroy - Church of St Mary - tomb of Elizabeth Howard: ashlar pyramid dated 1810
Outside, in the graveyard surrounding the church, there is a most unusual gravestone to Elizabeth Howard, in the shape of a pyramid. I’ve no idea what flight of fancy resulted in this extravaganza, but it certainly is conspicuous. It doesn’t strike me as typical Christian iconography, but perhaps I’m missing something.
Berry Pomeroy Castle
From St Mary’s I walked across fields and down lanes, in the direction of Berry Pomeroy Castle, getting a good dousing for my efforts. Arriving rather sodden at the English Heritage visitor’s building the first thing I said to the attendant was, “I’m not here to see the castle.” He looked at me rather perplexed, till I explained that I was passing through and I wished to purchase one of the Berry Pomeroy Castle guide books. These, produced by English Heritage, are first rate. The castle guide contains artist’s impressions of how rooms in the castle once looked, and these bring the ruined castle to life.
Berry Pomeroy Castle © English Heritage - "Reconstruction of the Great Hall in its early 17th-century heyday." - Berry Pomeroy Castle guide book
I particularly like this picture of the Grand Hall. This has a particular resonance with me, as one of the original caryatids to the side of the fireplace can be seen in the Royal Albert Memorial Museum in Exeter. There aren’t that many items remaining that reflect the inner appearance of the once sumptuous abode of Berry Pomeroy Castle, so this rare item I think of as a real gem. I recommend a visit to the museum to see it.
Plaster caryatid from The North Range, Berry Pomeroy Castle (RAMM)
Berry Pomeroy Castle caryatid held in the Royal Albert Memorial Museum, Exeter. The Jacobean North Range was the last and most ambitious extension to the Berry Pomeroy mansion. The Great Hall was on the first floor, with the Long Gallery above, at 65 metres, “it was among the longest ever built in England” (guide book). The longest surviving long gallery at 52 metres is that at Montacute House (NT) which I visited earlier this year.
I made the lake (or is that pond), formed by Gatcombe Brook, that lies at the foot of the castle my next objective. This was worth the detour as the sun came out and the lake looked splendid. And, as I was taking photographs of the ducks swimming on the pond, there to my side was the illusive Ragged Robin. How delightful it was to come across this wildflower at long last.
I climbed the track back towards the castle. My way forward at this point was obstructed to by a bold sign reading, ‘No public footpath – please do not access’. A walk route through the forest that I’d used before was well and truly blocked today. It’s a shame, as I can’t think that the occasional walker along this forest trail would cause any harm to the life of the forest. Anyway, instead, not willing to lose the height I’d gained, I decided to backtrack up the castle drive to the lane, and loop around to pick up my intended walk route. An alternative from the lake would be to head for the lane at this point which would form a shorter connection with my route as planned for today.
A little way further into my walk I came across an elderly man with his arms in the hedgerow. I was wondering just what he was doing. As I got closer he withdrew his arms and I could see he was holding a bag. He explained that he came out every day to feed the birds. He said he had coconuts in the hedgerow that he’d fill with food. I asked him what the food was and he showed me his bag. It was made up of bread crumbs and grated cheese. He explained the birds loved the cheese. I’d never thought to feed birds cheese.
Torbay - Beacon Hill
From here my path climbed steeply along a track and then into a field. I knew this way from a previous walk, but the views were no less breath-taking for that. I think the views across Torbay from here on Beacon Hill are some of the best to be had. By now I was suffering hunger pangs, so I ducked behind a wall out of the strong wind and sat in the warm sun to eat my picnic lunch.
Torbary - Occombe Valley Wood Nature Reserve
After lunch, setting off again, it wasn’t long before I was entering Occombe Valley Woods Nature Reserve. This is a surprising little space, so natural and unspoilt, and yet just on the outskirts of Torbay. I did have to make a correction to my advance as I picked up the wrong path, and this you’ll see if you examine my tracklog. Backtracking for a few minutes I soon picked up the correct route following the small stream quietly babbling on my right. The ferns that line this stream were looking magnificent at this time.
Oldway Mansion
I climbed steeply to emerge from Occombe Valley Woods rather abruptly in Torbay suburbia. I followed roads through the many houses until I arrived at the backdoor, so to speak, of Oldway Mansion. I walked a tree lined garden path that wound its way towards the main lawn of Oldway, and there to my left stood the grand and imposing Oldway Mansion. A splendid sight to behold, gleaming magnificently in the sun.
Oldway Mansion - gardens
The gardens of Oldway Manson are normally planted with a suffusion of colour, but today the formal flower beds were most uninteresting. Whether this is ‘austerity’ in action, I do not know. Perhaps I merely arrived between planting schemes. There is an enchanting little pond just below the lawn, reached through a small rock garden. I made for there and found this to be the best feature of the garden on my visit today.
Paignton - Victoria Park
From Oldway Mansion I followed a main road a short distance till I came to the entrance of Victoria Gardens. This is an old stomping ground of my childhood days, as my parents would bring us here to spend time in the play park. I noticed that the children today have the added convenience of food available from a little wooden hut serving snacks and ice cream. Luxury! From here I walked down the main shopping street of Paignton to the bus stop on the seafront to await my bus home.
I felt well exercised come the end of my walk, as once again the Devon hills had been many, and some rather steep, causing me to clock a total ascent just short of 700 metres (see statistics below). Mixed weather maybe, but only doused and not drenched. A thoroughly enjoyable walk.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 13.7 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 25min
Stopped Time: 1hr 35min
Total Ascent: 692 metres
Maximum Elevation: 189 metres
Buses: X64 & X46
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