Synopsis: A trip to Saltram House to see the Puya, supposedly in bloom. A walk around the garden, a tour of the house, and exploration of some of the paths on the estate.
Was it worth it? A trip to Saltram House (NT) to see the Puya recently come into bloom, except it was well past its bloom-by-date, and all I saw was a rather bare spike. So, no, for that reason alone it was not worth it. But any trip to Saltram is worthwhile, and yes, I really did enjoy my visit in spite of lack of Puya.
I’d seen on the National Trust South West Blog an article entitled A second exotic plant flowers for the National Trust for the very first time, which mentioned the Puya flowering. By ‘second’, the article is referring to the fact that a Furcraea recently flowered at Overbecks. Mum and I enjoyed our trip to Overbecks to see that, so I thought I’d follow that up with a trip to Saltram today. I decided I’d bus down to Saltram House and after my visit walk into Plymouth; at least that was the plan.
Saltram Garden - The Castle - folly
I was at Saltram House a little before the garden opening time of 11am, so I sat under a tree and had a drink to wile away a few minutes. On entering I was given a timed entry ticket to the house for 12am, which was when it opens, so I had an hour to explore the garden. At the farthest end of the garden there is this folly named The Castle.
Saltram Garden - The Castle - folly
Apparently The Castle was a place to sit and eat, for which purpose, as quiet and serene as it is, I would think it served admirably. Note the shaping of the windows: these seem to me to have an Indian influence.
Saltram Garden - The Orangery
I wandered slowly down the main lawn of the garden from The Castle to the Orangery. There are some magnificent trees along the length of the lawn making this a luxurious walk. The Orangery is a magnificent classical structure with orange trees in large white wooden tubs arranged in a semi-circle around its entrance. The oranges on these trees looked plentiful and were ripening nicely in the hot sun.
Saltram House - fireplace
I entered Saltram House through the main door which was surrounded by scaffolding which unfortunately precluded any photos of the front of the building, unless you have a penchant for scaffolding. The operative word in this house is ‘elegance’, in which the house abounds. I’ve just selected a few things which caught my eye. Firstly, I did rather like the carved marble fire surrounds, of which there are numerous. This scene, of quaint rural pastimes, is charmingly executed.
Saltram House - saloon
One can hardly visit Salcombe and not comment on the splendour of the saloon. To my mind this room is a study in harmony and elegance, a mirror on a time of high living and refined taste, if you were in the money. Apparently the doors would be swung open during balls to allow the music from the band playing on the lawn to fill this room. Now, that’s what I call a barbecue; highly civilized.
Saltram House - Chinese wallpaper
The Chinese wallpaper in a number of rooms on the first floor is a wonderful novelty and continues the theme of Chinese influence first experienced in the garden and connected via the porcelain objects in the downstairs rooms. If you saw the television series The Manor Reborn set in Avebury Manor (NT), presented by Penelope Keith and Paul Martin, you’ll have seen how Chinese wallpaper is hand painted in China and hung on the walls of English manor houses. Perhaps not for the average 3-bed semi but here it works a treat.
Why did this engraving, after a picture by Joshua Reynolds, catch my eye? Well, apart from the fact the lady has a very prepossessing countenance, I felt I recognized the face from a picture I saw at Poltimore House about a year ago, a certain Catherine Moore?. I looked through a catalogue of the pictures in the room, but couldn’t see this picture listed, possibly because I was hurrying. If not the same lady, they sure have a similar appearance, at least to my eyes.
Saltram Estate - Saltram Beach
On arriving at Saltram House I’d asked for and been given a ‘Welcome to the Saltram Estate’ map of the estate and walk/cycle routes around the grounds; this is worth having. Using this I planned a little stroll that would take me pass the amphitheatre, Saltram Beach, along the Dell Walk and out to Stag Lodge. It was perhaps a little hot for walking today, but I very much enjoyed the stroll through the grounds, even though I saw no stags, which is probably just as well.
Saltram Estate - Stag Lodge
At Stag Lodge, on the boundary of the Saltram House estate, I was put off travelling down the lane to my my right, named Colesdown Hill, because this was signposted as a dead-end, but, as you will see from this Google Street View, pedestrian access is possible along the full length of this road. This should have been the route I took, as the road I walked was very busy and there were a few stretches without a verge; in addition to which, I was taken slightly out of my way, whereas the Colesdown Hill route would have put me back on my planned walk route.
The other point to mention: although the gate at Stag Lodge was open and I was able to exit the park here, I’m not sure if it is always kept open. If intending to come this way, it might be worth checking with someone at the visitor reception. I find such questions are often treated as ‘odd ball’, because who is not travelling by car these days? Answer: me! There is an alternative path of about 200 metres avoiding the gates at Stag Lodge shown heading due south on the estate map from this location.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 11.9 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 56min
Stopped Time: 1hr 58min
Total Ascent: 331 metres
Maximum Elevation: 61 metres
Buses: X38
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