Synopsis: A walk from home, picking up the tow path along the Exeter Ship Canal, and following this to Turf Lodge. Then on into Starcross, Dawlish Warren and finally Dawlish. A train hop home from Dawlish.
I set off on this walk without any definite intentions as to where I was going to walk. I lacked the mental stamina the night before to do the planning for a walk, but having spent the previous day indoors, I was desperate for fresh air and exercise. The forecast was good, so I thought I’d make the most of it.
Initially I started with the intention of walking to Kenn, but then decided I’d like to see the sea, so changed my plans to a walk along canal and river down to Dawlish. This is a route I’ve cycled on various occasions, but today I’d do it on foot. This does at least have the advantage that the footpath along the canal follows the old tow-path, affording good views of the Exeter Ship Canal along its entire length, whereas part of the cycle route runs along a track below the height of the canal. The plan was to make this a one way walk, in that I’d use public transport to get me home.
Exeter Ship Canal at Countess Wear
I always feel the Exe Estuary has a special light all its own. I can’t explain why that should be, it just appears to me to have a certain light quality, on a good day, that is not to be found elsewhere in Devon. The light constantly changes and can vary from the highly dramatic to the soft and diffuse. These varying light characteristics are of course very good for taking photographs.
Exeter Ship Canal
The day was warm, and the sun was putting in the occasional appearance, so I was soon in shirt sleeves. There were few people about, just the occasional walker, cyclist and fisherman. The hills all around were clad in trees of various autumn colours, the reeds along the canal fading into their winter colours.
Exeter Ship Canal - Turf Lodge
The Turf Lodge was looking stark in the acute rays of the autumn sun, and also looked pretty shut up for the winter period. Later I came upon a notice that suggested the Turf Lodge was open for weekend lunches only at this time of year.
Powderham Parish Church - St Clement
I made the church of St Clement, Powderham, my stop for lunch, finding a wall in the cemetery on which to purchase a seat. A beautiful spot to sit looking out across fields and the estuary bathed in the warmth of the sun. It would have been nice to also have had a look around the church, but unfortunately it was locked with a notice suggesting it was only open for services of a Sunday. I feel it’s always a shame when a church is unable to keep its doors open; most do.
Powderham Castle - Grounds - Fallow Deer
Setting out along the road after lunch, I was greeted with some lovely views of the fallow deer that graze in the grounds of Powderham Castle. They were quite close to the road, and tame enough, knowing I was looking on, not to be spooked by me. There was a superb stag in the herd, but he generally kept his head down, replenishing his energies for the current rutting season. There was a lovely doe that looked the perfect Bambi, so cute and pert in its spots.
At Starcross I discover that the ferry that plies its trade between here and Exmouth ceased operating at the end of October, and doesn’t start up again till Easter of next year. The idea had crossed my mind that one option would have been to catch a ride across to Exmouth, but that was not available to me.
Cockwood - The Anchor Inn
As I walked on towards Cockwood the skies darkened a little and I thought the weather might be on the turn. Children were playing in a nearby field and were certainly making themselves heard. The Anchor Inn was looking very picturesque and I could see a number of people inside sat around barely lit tables, looking very cosy whilst partaking of their victuals.
Dawlish Warren
Dawlish Warren was looking very bleak on arrival. All the shops were shut up and there were very few people about. There was a harsh cold wind blowing in off the sea, and the sun had become shy, failing to lessen the harsh effect of the wind. I contemplated catching the train out from here (this is a ‘buy ticket on train’ station), but thought better of it, choosing to walk on into Dawlish. I did after all have all the time in the world.
I was perhaps a little surprised to find that the little Red Rock cafe (shed) was open this late in the season. I love walking this stretch of coast path along the sandy red cliffs, because its delightful to see the sculptured shapes the wind and rain has made in the soft Devon red sandstone cliffs. Some workmen are doing some remedial work to protect the rail track from landslip.
Dawlish
I looked ahead to see if the coastal path into Dawlish could be fully walked, as there is a section that dips down close to the sea. The tide had been coming in during my walk, and by this time waves were crashing over this low section, and although I could see some walkers walking in my direction had evidently made it, just, I decided that the wiser course for me would be the high path.
Dawlish - railway station
I walked up to the train station to check train times and purchase my ticket. I then walked along the seawall down to Coryton Beach and back, and also did a quick circuit of the Dawlish park before heading back to the railway station to catch my train. I had a pleasant journey home in a modern and comfortable carriage, and arrived at my halt, Digby and Sowton, within about 50 minutes, which was quick and efficient.
I enjoyed this walk, despite it’s familiarity to me. I suppose it re-enforces just what beautiful countryside I have access to right on my doorstep. I’m just such a lucky guy!
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 15 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 36min
Stopped Time: 1hr 05min
Total Ascent: 209 metres
Maximum Elevation: 70 metres
Buses: None
Train: Dawlish to Digby,Sowton (16:43) £3.90 off-peak (after 8:44) single
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