Synopsis: Walk to include churches of Kenn and Kenton. In part, a trial of a potential cycle circuit. Set out from St Thomas Railway Station to shorten walk. The churches of Kenn and Kenton are most interesting!
I had a potential cycle ride planned ‘on paper’ but decided to check it out on foot instead. The planned route was to take in Kenn and Kenton, and their respective churches, both of which are said to be of considerable interest. I had visited Kenn’s St Andrews Church quite recently, but had never visited Kenton’s All Saints Church. To make this a one way walk, I planned to catch the train home from Starcross, buying a return ticket to get me to St Thomas, to kick-start my walk. There was sun forecast for the day, but it started dull, and although the sun often ‘threatened’ to come out, it never quite made it.
I ploughed my way through the busy traffic-filled streets of Alphington glad to leave these behind me as I crossed the A379 that took me away from the congested city streets. I still had the sound from the busy M5 to contend with, but at least there was countryside all around me. My walk route, although ostensibly in the direction of Kennford, detoured slightly to investigate a potential cycle route (for another day), hence a the kink you see on the map (link above).
I rather liked this old council sign on the side of a building I passed on the streets of Exeter.
There was quite a bit of mud around, so I made an effort to clean my boots on the grass verge before entering Kennford. I was keen to take another look at what is now named the ‘Old School’ building, as this was my first school, some fifty years ago. It’s now been converted into a residence.
I’d not previously recollected that the school had the village water pump housed just outside of it. Peering in through the iron gating I could make out the sign that reads: “St Thomas R.D. (Rural District) Council – Please keep the pump house clean”. Rather quaint to see that another old sign has survived the passing years.
I then Followed the lane past the school in the direction of Kenn, a route I would have once walked as a young school boy. The church of St Andrews is the first I saw of Kenn, as the village is slightly offset to the south, and today I wouldn’t be walking through the village centre. I was keen to take a look at the old yew in the churchyard, reported to be at least 1,500 years old. The tree certainly looks old, with its huge hollowed out trunk, rather reminiscent of the Ashbrittle Yew in Somerset I’d visited on a previous trip out with family.
Inside St Andrews, it is the art work on the rood screen and Norman font that are most noteworthy, due to their antiquity. I also love the old pews that are ancient and knarred. A gentleman from a meeting taking place in the church came out and spoke to me, saying the pews are most uncomfortable to sit on. The thought occurred to me, although I didn’t say it, people don’t come to church to be comfortable. I’m sure the pews are extremely good for the soul, if not the bottom. He also spoke to me of a lily cross in the church, although I couldn’t make out where this was.
Another gentleman from the meeting came and spoke to me. He pointed out a strip of timber wood carving behind the back pew that he described as being Elizabethan. It looked similar to the carving underlining the images on the rood screen. He said that a hospital in Starcross was for Cretins, who were people born without a thyroid gland, from the French for Christian, Chretien, something I’d not previously known. He explained that Starcross Church was built in Exmouth, dismantled, and shipped across to Starcross where it was reassembled. There are apparently numerous plaques in the church with dedications on them from this time. I must check this out sometime, as it sounds interesting.
I’d spent rather a lot of time at St Andrews, because it was so interesting, and decided I needed to make up some time, so stepped out a bit, in the direction of Kenton. A road sign pointed my way forward.
The church of All Saints loomed up at the end of a long road of pretty coloured cottages as I entered Kenton. It was just after one o’clock so I first stopped and sat on a bench in the churchyard and had some lunch. I then entered the church by one of it’s main features, a large double-storey porch on the south side of the church, with ornate carvings. The faces on either side of the porch entrance are said to be of Henry IV and Joan of Navarre.
In the church interior it is once again the rood screen that is of most interest. A large and ornate wooden beam supported on slender perpendicular columns. Also very interesting is the intricately carved pulpit, saved from obscurity by the Rev S. Baring-Gould during Victorian times. There are paintings inlaid in the pulpit, of saints connected with Devon.
My path then took me into the centre of Kenton, then on to the entrance to Powderham Castle, from where I was able to pick up a permissive walk/cycle track that runs through the grounds of the castle. I had a wonderful view of the fallow deer as I walked along this track down to the estuary road.
It was only a short hop along the estuary road that was needed to take me into Starcross. The water of the River Exe estuary was calm, still and very peaceful. My 3pm train was due in 15 minutes, which was excellent timing. I briefly stopped in St Thomas to do some shopping before continuing my journey on the next train that followed one hour later.
A lot crammed into a short winter’s day. Country walking, interesting churches, and even a little shopping. For freely available further information on interesting churches of Devon, I recommend the ‘Some Old Devon Churches’ by John Stabb.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 12.7 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 26min
Stopped Time: 52min
Total Ascent: 273 metres
Maximum Elevation: 97 metres
Buses: None
Trains: Return ticket, Digby to Starcross (£4.00):
- outward: disembark at St Thomas railway station.
- return: disembark to shop in St Thomas before re-embarking from this station
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