Synopsis: Cross the border incursion into Cornwall for a walk from Mount Edgecumbe, through Kingsands and Cawsands, on to Penlee Point and Rame Head. Gardens and coasts.
A Bank Holiday was upon me and I wanted a coastal walk somewhere different and away from the hordes of visitors. The idea occurred to me to dip into Cornwall. The X38 is a fast ‘express’ service for Plymouth from where a short ferry hop to Mount Edgecumbe would get me into Cornwall. Perfect!
Plymouth City Centre in early mist - ancient fire enginesBefore I could begin the walk proper I needed to traverse about 1.5 miles of Plymouth city centre to get to the ferry landing at Cremyl. This I did easily, even catching a glimpse of a display of old fire engines on route, arriving at the ferry landing by about 9am, excellent timing to catch the 9:15 ferry to Mount Edgcumbe. There was time for me to read a rather interesting notice board about the Cremyl Ferry. Apparently there has been a ferry operating from here since the 14th century. Back then it was a row boat with lighters for horse and carts. That must have been hard work.
Landing stage of the Cremyl Ferry
On the ferry I got talking to a fellow passenger. He told me he was doing a walk that he’d write up for Cornwall Life magazine. He told me he lived in Bovey Tracey, where upon I asked why he wasn’t writing for Devon Life, to which he replied he wrote for both. That seemed to me to be not a bad way to earn some money. I made a mental note to look out for this gentleman’s writings.
Mount Edgcumbe Historic Gardens - French Garden
On arriving at the ferry landing at Mount Edgecumbe I spent a little time exploring the ‘historic’ gardens which were open and are free. I saw the information notice board made special mention of the fact that these are in ‘Cornwall’, should there be any doubt. It was lovely to have the gardens to myself, and they looked gorgeous in the early morning sun. It was worth getting up at 5:30am after all.
Mount Edgcumbe Historic Gardens - Italian Garden and Orangery
There is a large Orangery in the garden which I believe serves as a tea room. This would be a relaxing place to get refreshment, looking as it does across the formal gardens of Mount Edgecumbe, but I’ve no time for that today.
The beach
After leaving the gardens I next came across a little beach that looked idyllic in the crisp morning air. From here there are fine views across Plymouth Sound to Drakes Island. There is a reef here that stretches out towards Drakes Island that is known as The Bridge, and this is apparently clearly visible at low tide. The deep water channel is to the east of Drakes Island.
Duck pond
Just behind this beach is a lovely little duck pond, which, if I were a duck, I’d be most pleased with. And there is a little temple here with a plaque containing the words of a poem by Milton.
Mount Edgcumbe Folly
A little further on I could see a folly set back on the hill that I’d read about. There are fine views to be had from here, so I made the effort and took a little detour up to the folly. It’s a superbly romantic ruin and I refute anyone who says folly are useless. It just takes a little imagination to appreciate them.
'Picklecombe Seat' - 18th centurey conceit
The path soon took me into woods where it twists and turns here and there. In this wood there is a rather strange looking seating arrangement at a lookout point, known as the Picklecombe Seat. The stonework for this late 18th century conceit came from a church in Stonehouse, Plymouth. I suppose this is what people with money did in the past, and why not? Today I suppose it would be spent on garden decking and water features.
First sighting of Kingsands and Cawsands
Coming out of the trees I catch my first glimpse of Kingsand and Cawsand across a long sweep of grass along which some benches have been strategically placed, ideal for my early morning rest stop.
Kingsands
I first reach Kingsands, which is wonderfully idyllic, and hard to believe that I was only a metaphorical stones throw away from Plymouth. The narrow streets and picturesque cottages immediately transported me back to another time. The streets run down to a narrow quay and beach, which is quite busy on this Bank Holiday Saturday. It looked as if it was changeover time for the holiday lets along the water front.
Cawsands - across the border
Apparently at one time Kingsand was in Devon and Cawsand was in Cornwall, which at the time was a cause for much rivalry between the two villages. I came across a cottage named Border Cottage, presumably at the point of previous delineation. Today the two villages blend into each other making it difficult to judge where one ends and the other starts. There is a seasonal ferry boat service between Cawsands and Plymouth Barbican, which would be the quick and easy way to get here from Plymouth.
Penlee Point
After Cawsands I picked up the coast path again, taking me into trees once again, and climbing steadily towards Penlee Point. It’s only when I reached the point am I free of the trees and suddenly the view opened up before me. Looking one way I could see right across Plymouth Sound to Plymouth, and looking in the other direction I could see as far as Rame Head, my next destination on route. I could even make out the miniscule little chapel building on Rame Head.
View of Rame Head on the approach
Rame Head I estimated as being about two miles away, and felt that I could make that my lunch stop, so I stretched out on what was really easy walking and made really good time. The views all along this stretch of path are fantastic. I believe there is a car park nearby with a linking path to the coast path which must make an ideal stroll for anyone living nearby.
The tiny chapel on Rame Head
At Rame Head I found a bench and made that my lunch stop. The sun was strong but there was a stiff wind blowing, as one might expect on such an exposed promontory. There was something I could see up at the little chapel, and yet I couldn’t quite make it out. Was it a large dog? Eventually I came to realise it was a small foal, and mother pony was grazing close by.
The tiny chapel on Rame Head
After my lunch I took some time out to walk out to the tip of Rame Head to take a closer look at the small chapel. Apparently it has been here for more than six hundred years; it’s a fantastic, if rather exposed, location at which to site what was presumably a place of worship. Perhaps such a location helped inspire the necessary awe on the part of parishioners. I was suitably impressed.
Now here’s someone you didn’t expect to pop up in my blog, did you? Yes, it’s Cate Blanchett playing the part of Elizabeth I as she starred (Oscar nominated) in the film Elizabeth: The Golden Age.
So, what’s the relevance here? Well, I came to discover, finally watching the film, that the tiny chapel on Rame Head makes, if not quite a star turn, a cameo appearance in this film. Not as out of place as one might think, since this would be the very coast line that would have caught sight of the invading Spanish Armada. It’s an entertaining film and one that I’d recommend, especially after a walk to Rame Head.
Whitsand Bay
Once again I set out at quite a pace along the coast path. I had about 2.5 miles still to walk, and although I believed some of it to be steep climbs, I felt that there was a chance I could make the 14:34 bus, which would be convenient if I could. The views out along Whitsand Bay were glorious as I made my way.
There is a peculiar shanty town (described in my guide book as huts, shacks and chalets) dotted all along the cliffs of Whitsand Bay. I’d come across these little rough-and-ready dwellings when I was walking the South West Coast Path. I think they may have first started to come about in the 20s and 30s, when to have a wild out-of-the way place like this would have been perceived as very romantically bohemian. I have to confess the thought is very appealing. Goodness knows what it is like to be here when the weather is rough; I would imagine you really know all about it. There’s a beautifully situated ‘The View’ cafe up on the road, which probably makes for a delightful place to take in just that. I must check it out some time.
Helicopter rescue from Freathy CliffI arrived at my bus stop, at the end of Donkey Lane (lovely!), about five minutes before the bus was due, so I caught my intended bus. As I was being conveyed back to Plymouth we had a good view of a helicopter seemingly rescuing someone from a fall on Freathy Cliffs (story: This is Devon). The bus route goes via Torpoint so, for the first time, I get to travel across the River Tamar ferry on a bus. It was an hour’s journey back to Plymouth, so I was glad I’d made the early bus.
This was a thoroughly enjoyable day. My ideas for it had been hastily scrambled together the previous night, but the trip was none the worse for that. There was a lot of variety on this walk, which is always appealing, plus Cornwall always does feel like a different place to Devon, which was refreshing to experience. The sun shone and it was warm, the skies however were often foreboding which heightened the drama of the photos that I took.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 12.4 miles (Main walk, Mount Edgcumbe to Rame Head: 9.5 miles)
Moving Time: 4hrs 39min
Stopped Time: 1hr 59min
Total Ascent: 638 metres
Maximum Elevation: 114 metres
Buses: X38 & 81C, plus ferry Cremyl to Mount Edgecumbe
Additional costs (to £6.50 Stagecoach Explorer):
* Ferry Cremyl to Mount Edgcumbe : £1.20
* Bus 81C (First) Whitsand Bay to Plymouth City Centre: £3.40
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