Synopsis: A split walk, and really less of a walk than a visit to two castles, those of Berry Pomeroy and Dartmouth. Chance to make the most of my new membership of English Heritage.
My planning for a ‘walk’ can often be quite last minute, but this was truly so. It was the night before, shortly after going to bed, that the thought occurred to me, it should be possible to visit both Berry Pomeroy and Dartmouth Castles in one day using the buses. A quick dash downstairs to check if I was right was all the planning that took place for this walk. As Berry Pomeroy opens at 10am and it would not take me long to reach it, I was even permitted the luxury of a relatively late start; well, wake up time of 6:40 at least.
As my first drop-down bus stop was classified ‘hail and ride’, I had to be quite precise as to its location, as there would be no visible clues to its position. I programmed my GPS with the bus stop’s precise grid reference and on the day the bus duly dropped me right at the entrance to the lane I was to walk down, it being a mere 1.4 miles to Berry Pomeroy Castle. My guess is not many people arrive this way, but it worked out really well for me.
The lake below Berry Pomerory Castle, fed by Gatcombe BrookI think my previous walks around Berry Pomeroy Castle must have been at a different time of year, as this time I could hardly make out the castle amongst the trees when viewed from the lake in the valley, fed by Gatcombe Brook. The castle, glimpsed through the trees, holds such a commanding position on the steep sides of this forested hill. It was the obvious site to build a romantic ruin, except of course, that was not quite the intention of the original owners, the Pomeroys. They did however choose their location well from a defensive perspective. Apparently there was much feuding in Devon at the time, so that would have been high in their considerations when building the castle at this location.
Berry Pomeroy Castle - gatehouse
I climbed a path from the lane up towards the castle beginning to make it out through the trees as I approached. There’s a little hut which serves as the English Heritage ticket office. I presented my EH membership card for its first outing. I was asked if I wanted a guide book or audio tour, but declined, saying I was happy to wander. The woman behind the counter said, “This is the perfect castle just to wander”, which I thought was a nice thing to say.
Berry Pomeroy Castle - north wing
The castle has a sort of double history. It was once a medieval fortress the curtain wall of which still exists in part. At that time there would have been a small number of low level dwellings within the wall. These dwellings, along with part of the wall, were torn down to build the most grand Elizabethan mansion possible. It even includes a portico supporting a first floor terrace. Because the main north wing of the house had large bay windows put into it, and these obviously don’t survive, today there are vast gaping pillars of stone quite unlike any other ruin I’ve ever visited. These windows were put in to allow full advantage of the views to the surrounding Devon hills. One minor criticism I’d level at EH and that is they might do something about the trees close to the castle that block the view, the very same trees that prevent the castle being viewed from the lake, as I mentioned earlier. I’ll leave you to read the brief history of the castle from the English Heritage web site should you wish to know more, or try good old faithful font of all knowledge Wikipedia. The Berry Pomeroy Castle guide book from English Heritage is actually well worth the money.
Berry Pomeroy Castle - scale modelAt the end of my ‘wanderings’ around Berry Pomeroy Castle I reflected on what the lady selling tickets had said, which now struck me as a wonderfully fitting way to put it. This was obviously once a grand mansion that could hold its own with the best of them, but now a little imagination is required to conjure up the life that must have once gone on at this castle. I have to say the EH notice boards and the sketched recreations of life at Berry Pomeroy Castle were most useful in helping me visualize the grand life of the onetime inhabitants. Could there be a finer ruined castle than Berry Pomeroy?
A path through the woods that surround Berry Pomeroy CastleAfter my visit to Berry Pomeroy Castle I picked up a path out the back of the small car park. This path took me through the woods up to a crossroads from which I followed a lane to my bus pick up point, another ‘hail and ride’ stop, so once again I needed to be precise about its location, as there was nothing visible to indicate its presence.
* Addendum: On a subsequent visit to the castle I attempted to walk the same route as mentioned here but was barred by a sign on the gate which reads, ‘No public footpath – please do not access’. My advice would be to walk up the castle drive and then follow the lane left to join my route at the road junction.
The bus deposited me in Dartmouth by around 1pm, which of course was an ideal time for lunch. I sought out a bench overlooking the river where I could watch all the comings and goings of the people messing about on the river and duly tucked into my lunch.
Dartmouth - Royal Avenue GardensAfter lunch I briefly walked around what I think are called Royal Avenue Gardens, but whatever they’re called, they are delightful and and it’s always pleasing to wile away some time in them. I ambled about taking a few photos before setting off for my second castle of the day, Dartmouth Castle.
Dartmouth Castle is situated a little way out of Dartmouth at the mouth of the River Dart, for obvious logistical reasons. If you’re intending to bar the entry of marauding enemy ships, that’s the place to build your castle.
Dartmouth Castle
Because Dartmouth Castle has been used for such a long period of time, beginning from 1388, it can be a little difficult to fathom the age of the various parts of the castle. The castle was apparently considered of strategic importance right up to the Second World War. At one time it could operate a chain that spanned the river, raising this on a winch, then small boats were used to keep it afloat. Any ships attempting to enter the harbour would be held on this chain and the guns from the castle could then be used to easily pick them off.
Dartmouth CastleIt was interesting to see the gun emplacements as they are so reminiscent of the Old Battery that we saw at The Needles only a week ago. In fact the Victorian additions to the battery took place under Lord Palmerston, who was strengthening all such sea defences for fear of a French invasion, including the defences at The Needles and Dartmouth. On occasion these efforts have been referred to as Palmerston’s Follies, as it is said they were never used in earnest. Perhaps we should read it that they performed their purpose, in that they were adequate deterrent against attack to keep the enemy at bay. My favourite fact about Lord Palmerston has to be that on his deathbed he is credited with saying: "Die, my dear doctor? That's the last thing I shall do!"
Dartmouth Castle - St Petrox's Church - pirate Mary?
I wandered around the nearby church of St Petrox’s. It amused me to come across what appears to be the burial place of a pirate’s wife, Mary Hodges. I say that, as there appears to be a skull and crossbones image on her tombstone of 1692. That, at least, was what flitted through my mind, being so close to an important naval town. Of course, this is not a Jolly Roger emblem, but a symbol of death, or a memento mori.
It was an enjoyable day out, and none too taxing physically. The castles were extremely interesting places to visit, and I was glad this impromptu day had been so successful.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 3.4 miles
Moving Time: 1hr 16min
Stopped Time: 22min
Total Ascent: 175 metres
Maximum Elevation: 148 metres
Total Distance: 3.8 miles
Moving Time: 1hr 28min
Stopped Time: 1hr 59min
Total Ascent: 429 metres
Maximum Elevation: 37 metres
Buses: X64 & 111
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