Synopsis: This is a lovely stretch of coast that is relatively easy to do by bus. Inner and Outer Hope are just what a Devon seaside should be. A race against time, as the rains were on their way.
Another early start - 5.30am to catch bus at 7.10. As I'm making breakfast to the sounds of the dawn chorus I hear the radio announcer say today's weather isn't going to be as good as it has been. Just for a minute I'm thinking this intended walk doesn't seem such a good idea. But hey, I'm up, so I’m thinking lets get on with it!
My first bus showed 15 minutes late, which was a concern, as I had to make a connection in Kingsbridge. As the connecting bus is scheduled to depart 12 minute after my bus arrives, my bus only has to make up 3 minutes and we get to connect, and that's what happened. I alight out of Kingsbridge at Malborough.
The church All Saints Malborough (Listed Grade I) doesn't look very inspiring from the outside, but I entered anyway, to find the interior equally un-noteworthy. Having said that, it is Listed Grade I.
Sculptures in alabaster from the 14th century font of the now ruined Huish church
Further down the lane I picked up a footpath to Inner Hope. I notice from this footpath that the church in Galmpton looks more interesting than that of Malborough, and decide on a detour to inspect more closely. This church is quite modern, built in the 1860s, and somewhat arts-and-crafts in style. The treasure is to be found on entering, as there are some medieval alabaster carvings rescued from the old church of St Huish which this church replaced. The sculptures are exquisite.
Thurlestone and beyond, looking west
I picked up lane out the back of Galmpton that affords me amazing views towards Thurlestone, Bantham, Bigbury and Burgh Island. Lovely!
Outer Hope
The lane then dropped down into Outer Hope which in turn led to Inner Hope, both lovely places. Time for a quick snack before picking up the path that took me up on the cliffs, heading south towards Salcombe.
Soar Cove - beyond civilisation
I passed through Bolberry Down, the car park here was quite busy. This is a lovely spot. The path followed the cliff top for a while before dropping into Soar Mill Cove. There's a small beach here, in a beautiful setting. Completely without facilities, as there is no road to it. A stiff climb out of here took me to a rocky bluff where I stopped to have lunch.
Starehole Bay - rain clouds approaching
After lunch, as I set off, I could hear rumbles of thunder in the distance and soon saw dark clouds rolling in. I reached Bolt Head in the dry. The dramatic lighting makes Starehole Bay look really stunning. As I'm rounding the corner of this bay for the final stage of my walk into Salcombe it begins to rain and hail. Luckily I had an umbrella with me.
Salcombe - after the rains
I arrived in Salcombe with 45 minutes to spare before the 16.10 bus that will take me back to Kingsbridge. Salcombe was typically busy, but it's always a nice place to visit. I arrived back in Exeter at 18.40, having had the best weather of the day for my walk, thanks to my alarm clock!
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