Synopsis: Treyarnon Bay, Cornwall, camping holiday. Strong winds, typical for Cornwall, necessitated careful choice of pitch for my tent. A superb week, with plenty of warmth, sunshine, and a little exercise.
Sat 22nd June 2008 - Arrive Treyarnon
My initial plan was to camp at Trethias Farm, but a notice on the door said closed. Across the village was Treyarnon Bay Caravan Park, a possible alternative site. The lower part of the campsite I could see was protected by a hedge, and as there were strong winds blowing I opted for this place. Should have checked the toilets prior to pitching, a lesson I should have learnt before now. The pitch was good, but the toilets were simply a smelly port-a-loo. There were no dish washing facilities nearby either, and showers were £1 as session. Still, at £50 (7 * £7 + £1) this was set to be a cheap week's holiday, and this was an excellent base location for walking and cycling. All-in-all, things were looking up.
For the first time on this holiday I shall be using a handheld GPS unit for navigation and tracking my routes. I had a lot to learn. I’m able to record a tracklog which gives an accurate representation of the various walk/cycle routes I took on my days out, links to which are available in this blog post.
Mon 23rd June 2008 - Walk: Treyarnon to Padstow - (Blue Route)
Trevose Head Lighthouse, brilliant white against a deep blue Atlantic ocean
It was a glorious start to the day. I sent off some postcards from the nearby store, then headed off on my walk of the day, the first destination of which being Trevose Head. The beacon from this lighthouse can be seen from the campsite at night.
As the walk swept down towards Mother Ivey's Bay there was a splendid view point where the bays each side of the headland can be viewed.
It's possible to see the sea across both sides of this headland at this point
Polventon - Modern Movement house at Mother Ivey's Bay
Further down I passed a white Art Deco building and stoped to photograph. A passer by informed me it's the house of Rick Stein's parents. There has to be money in the food business, even fish-n-chips.
Padstow Lifeboat Station
Padstow lifeboat station is just below the house, built in 1967, some distance from Padstow, as lifeboats from the old station kept beaching on Doom Bar. I really like that name.
Glorious white sands of Mother Ivey's Bay
Mother Ivey's Bay with it's dazzling white beach looked glorious in the sun, some shelter from which I sought out to eat my lunch.
Round Hole in Trevone Bay
Walking on I passed through Harlyn Bay and Trevone Bay, then circled up to the headland, past an enormous 'round hole' (see photos) and on to where a mine shaft tower dominates the sky for miles around. From here the path follows the broad expanse of the Camel Estuary and its quiet beaches and dunes.
Padstow was a bustle of holiday makers enjoying the warm evening. I have time for a pasty before my bus (17.35) back to Constantine Bay. My destination bus stop being a mere 5 minute walk from my camp couldn’t be more convenient.
Tue 24th June 2008 - Walk: Holywell Bay, Porth Joke, Crantock - (Green Route)
Holywell Bay Campsite, the pitch we once occupied
Holywell Bay in a very moody light
The beach at Holywell Bay affords lovely views out to sea, with an island just a short distance from the beach. The weather was constantly changing, and with it the light too, which made for interesting photos. I sat up in the dunes to eat my lunch, a more perfect setting could not be imagined.
The quiet and seculded cove of Porth Joke
From Holywell Bay I walked on to Porth Joke, a secluded and seemingly rarely visited narrow cove.
Is this where we slept out all those years ago?
From there the path followed the cove out to the coast and then on towards Crantock. The dunes behind Crantock beach are where we once spent the night out 'under the stars'. Did I find the very spot (see photos)?
I then walked into the village of Crantock, took some time out to rest, and had a cup of tea, before picking up a path out of the back of the village.
Treago Farm campsite
I took a quick look at Treago Farm campsite which had been recommended to me, which looks quite pleasant and might warrant a future visit.
From here it was just a short 10 minute walk up to where my car was parked.
Wed 25th June 2008 - Cycle: Padstow, Wadebridge, along the Camel Trail - (Brown Route)
St Meryn Church
I followed lanes to St Meryn where I briefly stop to explore the church. Then more lanes to main road into Padstow. I'm running late, and so immediately break for some lunch before heading down the Camel Trail.
On the Camel Trail in Padstow
There are many cyclists about on the trail. The weather is hot and sunny so I do my cycling at a very leisurely pace.
Molesworth Street, Wadebridge
At Wadebridge I wandered around the town for a while before heading up the hill to (yes, you've guessed it!) the local Tesco store. I stocked my panniers with provisions, and then dropped down onto the Camel Trail once again, near to Trefulga, for cycle ride back to Padstow and then on to my campsite.
Sunset from the beach at Treyarnon
There was a lovely sunset from the campsite this evening. I somehow found the energy, after all my cycling, to stroll down to the beach to take a few photos.
Thu 26th June 2008 - Walk: Treyarnon to Newquay - (Red Route)
Bedruthan Steps, and a very rough sea
Around Bedruthan Steps the seas were crashing against the rocks. I noticed that the National Trust have built some steps into the cliff that provide a means to descend to a tiny cove. I'm warned to watch the sea, as the waves are washing the base of these steps. I hung around just long enough for some photos, as I didn't fancy having to swim out from the base of the rocks.
View of Iron Age Fort on Griffin Point
Walking on from here, I ducked down below the cliff path to have lunch huddled in a rock outcrop sheltered from the wind. There are some really interesting rock formations along this stretch of the coast.
Trevelgue Head, and Iron Age fort
Further along the trail I come across the remaining banks of Iron Age fortresses which are apparently dotted all along the coast. I understand these formed strong defensive communities, benefitting from only having to be defended on the landward facing side.
I found Newquay quite busy upon my arrival. Yes, I did make it all the way to Newquay after all. I searched for an internet cafe, but saw no evidence of one. By now it was quite late so I queued for the 17:05 bus back to camp, as the journey would take nearly an hour. The bus was late, but eventually it showed.
Fri 27th June 2008 - Visit: Lanhydrock (National Trust)
This is a rather damp grey day. I'd set aside a trip to Lanhydrock for such a day. As we have family connections with Foxhole, described as 'up in the clay', I decide to take a detour in that direction. The Rockett branch of our family (Mum's side) had a branch of the family living here at one time. The Foxhole of today is typical of the rather bleak one-street-towns of mining Cornwall, very utilitarian in appearance, and looking a little lost for a reason for being where it is now that the china clay industry has moved on.
The begonia garden, Lanhydrock
At Lanhydrock I sat in my car in the rain and ate my lunch prior to walking down to the house. The house is so completely Victorian in it's form and furniture that it is like stepping back in time. It's the orderly efficiency of the late Victorians which is what most strikes me, with everything having a clear and functional purpose for convenience and comfort.
I have time for a quick walk through the gardens in the drizzle. The droplets of rain on the flowers provide an extra dimension to photographs which would otherwise be rather pallid.
My visit to Lanhydrock was most enjoyable and a refreshingly different day from my days on the trail walking and cycling.
Sat 28th June 2008 - Walk: Padstow, Rock, Polzeath - (Purple Route)
Padstow / Rock Ferry
I decided I’d like to avoid using the car today if possible. An option for a walk from the campsite was to bus into Padstow and catch the ferry across to Rock, and walk the West Pentire headland. I caught the 10:05 bus from Constantine Bay and arrived at the ferry embarkation just in time to catch a departing ferry.
St Enodoc's Church, seemingly sinking in the sand dunes
I walked through Rock towards the golf club house and out onto the golf course following public footpaths for St Enodoc Church. This is a lovely church seemingly sinking in the sands through the years. The poet John Betjeman loved this place and is buried here (see photo).
Com Head, looking east
From St Enodoc Church I walked to Polzeath and followed a public footpath up onto the headland in the direction of The Rumps. There's a National Trust car park from which a path leads out onto the coastal path. The sky is cloudless and the sea a deep blue. I find shelter from the sun and wind behind some gorse out on Com Head (seems a slightly unusual name?) and tuck into my picnic lunch.
Rumps Point, as viewed from near Pentire Point
After lunch I walk out to Rumps Point which looks out to a little island named The Mouls. To get here I walk through a gateway through the ramparts of an Iron Age fortress that once existed here. From Rumps Point I spy a pair of Manx Shearwater birds swimming just offshore.
Polzeath, on the approach from Pentire Point
From Rumps Point the path took me out to Pentire Point. Looking across the Camel Estuary from here I was able to see the dominant mine shaft tower mentioned in Monday's walk. looking inland from the point I see Polzeath which is my next objective. Polzeath is a surfer's haven, and the condition of the surf throughout this past week has been a surfer's paradise, there having been high clean waves all week long.
From Trebetherick Point, with St Enodoc Church nestled down amongst the dunes
From Polzeath I walked on towards Pentireglaze Haven, a small bay looking across which I once again see St Enodoc church, nestled into the dunes. It's quite a tiring walk across dunes from here in the direction of Rock where I once again arrive just in time to catch the ferry back to Padstow. Sat next to me on the ferry is a big, shaggy, slightly damp, dog that wasn't going to miss any of the action!
I once again caught the 17.35 bus from Padstow to Constantine Bay.
Sun 29th June 2008 - Homeward Bound
I was on the road for home by around 12.30. I stopped off at Tesco, Wadebridge, to pick up some lunch to eat enroute. Now that’s what I call a most delightful holiday.
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