19 February 2011 – Walk: Brixham to Kingswear (8.1 Miles)

Synopsis: Familiar territory, but beautiful to see on a glorious day like today. Slippery footwork on the steep slopes after a night of heavy rain. Lunch overlooking Pudcombe Cove proved a delightful setting.

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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I hadn’t planned a route for this walk, as my original intention for today was to walk near Axminster. I changed my plans at the last moment, as it had rained so heavily overnight, that I felt the countryside was going to be waterlogged. I reckoned on the coast being dryer and easier going. I caught a bus from Exeter for Torbay, and worked out a walk route as I went. I settled upon a stretch of coast which is a favourite of mine, for being wild, rugged, and unspoilt, coast between Brixham and Kingswear.

Man Sands - looking towards Berry Head

I passed two lovely coves on my walk, that of Man Sands first, followed by Scabbacombe Sands. There’s a lime kiln right down on the beach at at Man Sands, something that isn’t quite such a mystery to me now, having seen how one was fired up and used on the Edwardian Farm TV programme. Evidently a precise art, and not without its dangers, as a good deal of carbon monoxide is given off in the process of heating the lime to incredibly high temperatures.

Pudcombe Cove - light and shade - Monterey Pine, I believe

 

 

 

I had a robin for company as I sat down at Pudcombe Cove to eat my lunch, and what better company could there be? Pudcombe Cove is at the combe in which Coleton Fishacre is to be found. I had not intended to visit Coleton Fishacre today, which was just as well, as it was closed. I had thought it might have opened for half-term week.

 

Pudcombe Cove - light and shade - Monterey Pine, I believe

 

 

Coleton Fishacre is bordered by belts of Monterey Pine, these create a picturesque scene at the coastal end of the combe. The sun shone on me through the trees as I sat looking out over the cove eating my lunch. Someone passing me by said, “What more could you want than a lovely place to eat your lunch.” I replied, saying, “This will do me just fine.”

Mill Bay Cove - dramatic lighting

 

 

Just past Pudcombe Cove my route took me inland following signs for the Brownstone car park. I chose this route rather than follow the coastal path as it would save me a some time, and effort. I know that sounds lazy, and perhaps it was a little. But, the route I walked did afford me some lovely views down to the coast in the direction of Mill Bay Cove, so I feel at least in part vindicated in my choice of route.

Kingswear - railway station - Art Deco style poster

 

 

 

 

Coming through Kingswear, which I didn’t have much time to explore, I did see this poster on the wall of the Kingswear Railway Station. The Paignton to Dartmouth Steam Railway, as it is known, is a lovely railway, but I’m not quite convinced it has the elegance suggested by this poster, which to me is more reminiscent of The Orient Express. Still, since Agatha Christie lived nearby at Greenway, perhaps we can excuse this little artistic indulgence.

 

 

A wonderful day’s walking. After a night of persistent heavy rain, I very nearly didn’t go out at all. Thank goodness I had the good sense to trust in the weather forecast which predicted sun. It was glorious!

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.1 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 22min
Stopped Time: 39min
Total Ascent: 637 metres
Maximum Elevation: 169 metres

Buses: X46, 12 & 120

12 February 2011 – Walk: Putts Corner to Sidmouth (9.5 Miles)

Synopsis: Far reaching views across swathes of Devon landscape. A quiet lunch in the churchyard of Salcombe Regis before arriving at the busy resort of Sidmouth. Plus a quote from Sir John Betjeman.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

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(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

My start point, for the simple reason this is where the bus stops, was Putts Corner. A rather out of the way sort of place, and goodness knows why the bus does stop here (on request). There is the Hare and Hounds Inn here, and a camping site nearby; perhaps these are reasons enough for a bus stop. Whatever the reason, this stop was a good place to begin my walk back in the direction of Simouth, from whence I’d just come by bus.

The views open out

I was about 45 minutes into this walk, traipsing across fields and through woods, before the views really began to open out as I had hoped they would. There are some lovely sweeping hills in this area. These were looking very lush in the bright sun of this February morning. There were very few people about. I passed one gentlemen carrying what I believe to have been a double-barrelled shotgun, spaniel at his heels, I imagine in the hope of bagging the odd pigeon.

Salcombe Regis - church

 

 

 

 

 

I approached the village of Salcombe Regis around lunchtime. The village is snugly nestled in a little comb that runs down to the coast. I found a comfortable bench bathed in sun in the churchyard in view of the church, and it was there that I ate my lunch, by a small pocket of snowdrops, the first I’d seen this spring.

 

Apparently Salcombe Regis was given to to the monastery founded by Athelstan at Exeter, which is how it came by its royal connection. The village had a reputation for smuggling, something in which the church was willing to co-operate, sometimes storing contraband high in the roof of the church, for a small cut of course. Nearby Slade farm was also involved. Henry Northcott, labourer records in 1819 that the brandy was strong and treacly, being condensed for shipment from France, and later watered down before sale. “Once they were in Slade cellar, but the King (i.e. the Customs Officers) called and they were only just started down the drains in time. It made the rats squeak.” (extract from the Shell Guide to Devon) I bet it did!

Sidmouth - Alma Bridge (1900)

I entered upon Sidmouth sea front by crossing over Alma Bridge, named after a battle during the Crimean War. The strange thing is, this bridge looked completely different in 1895 than it does now. Searching the Internet I find the bridge was, ‘Originally constructed in the mid-19th century, it was replaced in 1900.” I guess that explains why. I find the Battle of Alma took place on 20th September 1854. But whatever the story behind the bridge, it’s a splendid way to approach the promenade, and how nice it always is to be beside the seaside.

Sidmouth

 

“Gem of ravishing Regency architecture,” is how my my Shell Guide describes Sidmouth. It goes on to say, “Elegant, little villas sparkle with white paint, delicate ironwork and small panes of coloured glass.” It is definitely taken with Sidmouth, and who would dispute them? I too think it is a very smart place, full of old world charm, and quite stately as far as seaside places go. Apparently the cricket field, laid out in 1820 is one of the oldest in the country.

Sidmouth - Connaught Gardens - Verse from Sir John Betjeman

 

It is easy to see why Sir John Betjeman described Sidmouth as 'A town caught still in a timeless charm'. Sidmouth boasts over 500 listed buildings, many of which are relics of Sidmouth's heyday in the Regency era. He penned this verse, commemorated on a plaque in the Connaught Gardens, which reads:

“Pause on Peak Hill, look eastward to the town,
Then to the Connaught Gardens wander down
And in the shelter of its tropic bowers,
I see its bright and outsize Devon flowers”.

Sidmouth - Connaught Gardens - time for tea

 

 

 

The Clock Tower, which now functions as a cafe attached to the Connaught Gardens, was once a lime kiln on the cliff top by Jacob’s Ladder. The chalk was brought by boat and carried to the cliff top by donkeys. It eventually formed the foundation of a pseudo-fort with clock tower lookout and boathouse, complete with boat on davits (from blue wall-mounted disk nearby).

If you’d like to read about the Connaught Gardens, East Devon District Council have provided this informative guide to these gardens.

 

It was good to be out in the on this warm and sunny day in February. The peace and tranquillity of the countryside was nicely contrasted with the busy but sophisticated elegance of Sidmouth.

Note: I made a minor navigation error at this point (N50.70961 W3.20505) on the route where I took the left path but should have taken the higher path to the right, which had been my original intention. Not a significant problem, but simply involved me in a trek along a very wet and muddy track, one which could have been avoided if I’d taken the right course. I recommend adding a note to a waypoint with proximity indicator at this location to avoid making this error, something I’ve now added to my GPS route for this walk.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 9.5 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 58min
Stopped Time: 49min
Total Ascent: 392 metres
Maximum Elevation: 253 metres

Buses: 52B

19 January 2011 – Walk: Hemyock to Honiton (15.3 Miles)

Synopsis: Inspiration for this walk came from my Shell Guide to Devon, in which it talks of a beautiful Norman font in the church at Dunkeswell. The early morning brought with it a severe frost.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

This was new territory for me to explore. I needed to make an early start (5:30am alarm call) for this walk to be possible on a January day when the days are short. There was a reasonable distance to be covered, so although the walk included some sightseeing, there was little time to dawdle, especially as I wanted to be home in time for badminton in the evening. The walk was in part inspired by a photo of the Norman font of Dunkeswell Church that I’d seen in the Shell Guide of Devon, a copy of this guide I’d picked up last year for £5. The church font looked to be well worth closer inspection.

Hemyock - town pump - 1902, cast iron

The Shell Guide on Hemyock: “Unlovely village, but good things in it.” Now, isn’t that a lovely turn of phrase. I rather suspect the influence of Sir John Betjeman who was one of the co-editors of this book, as he was never one to shy away from saying what he thought. I suppose, for the sightseer, it doesn’t have much to recommend it, but I would think it a pleasant place to live. Here is the Shell Guide on the village pump: “Town pump, 1902, cast iron like dripping wax and economically celebrating the reign of Victoria, the coronation of Edward and the peace in South Africa.” Lovely! Well, when funds are short one has to do what one can to stretch those pounds.

 

Dunkeswell Abbey - chapel (1842)

 

Half way between Hemyock and Dunkeswell are the remains of Dunkeswell Abbey, a Cistercian abbey that was quite formidable in its day, a day that came to an end with the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII. The ruins include part of the Abbey gate house and some of the Abbot’s house. Once again I do like the Shell Guide’s description of the chapel built on the site in 1842, which it describes as, “rather dull”. Fair comment I’d say.

Dunkeswell Abbey - chapel (1842) - 13c stone coffin of Lord William de Brewer, founder of the Abbey

 

Apparently two 13c stone coffins were discovered in the excavations of the old Abbey church, one of which is thought to probably be that of Lord William de Brewer, who founded the Abbey in 1201.
 

 

 

Dunkeswell Aerodrome

 

 

I deliberately planned the next stretch of the walk to loop up by Dunkeswell Aerodrome, as I thought I might see some light aircraft taking off and landing. I was not disappointed. As this was such a beautiful still day with a crystal clear blue sky, the pilots were out in their hordes. The sky was full of little jalopies buzzing around like gnats in the air. I was left with the impression that I was watching a flying tractor circus display, as that was the sound that many of the motors brought to mind.

Dunkeswell - church - Norman font

 

The thing that sparked this walk in my imagination was, as mentioned previously, seeing a photograph of the Norman font in the church at Dunkeswell. I do love all things Norman, and this looked to be a particularly fine example of a Norman font. I wasn’t disappointed on seeing the font; the carvings are exquisite. Sometimes Norman carvings will be simple geometric patterns that repeat, but here are beautifully carved figurines. Rather than be perfectly natural they’re somewhat stylised, but this adds to the magic and otherworldly look of them. The walk would have been worth it if this were all that were in its favour.

Awliscombe - church on a hill

 

 

 

There was no easy route for me to take for the relatively short distance between Awliscombe and Honiton, the most obvious direction being the main road (the A373). As I didn’t fancy this I plotted a tangential course along Greenway Lane up into a hilltop forest. This was quite a demanding climb, particularly considering I had to cover the distance quite quickly if I were to catch the 16:25 bus from Honiton. This stretch certainly got my heart and lungs well exercised.
 

This was a walk through lovely countryside with plenty of interesting things to see on route. The early start when the ground was white from severe overnight hoar frost, was particularly beautiful. It felt good to be out in the country walking again after rather a long break. A fine start to the new year.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 15.3 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 31min
Stopped Time: 40min
Total Ascent: 560 metres
Maximum Elevation: 264 metres

Buses: 380, 20A & 52B

24 December 2010 – Walk: Lympstone to Exmouth (8.8 Miles)

Synopsis: The snow showed no signs of thawing but the sun shone, so I decided on the brief exercise of a walk from Lympstone to Exmouth. Train travel to Lympstone then return from Exmouth makes this easy.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I felt the need to get out of the city of Exeter for a while this Christmas Eve. The quickest and easiest option for me from my home was to jump on the train to Exmouth. The plan therefore was to buy a return ticket to Exmouth, but alight at Lympstone and walk to Exmouth along the Exe Estuary Trail. The only unknown being the state of the trail, as there was still a lot of snow around from the fall that occurred over Sunday night, the temperature still being very low, with very little sign of a thaw happening.

Everywhere felt very relaxed as people mingled about seemingly in holiday mood. The last minute Christmas shoppers were no doubt becoming extremely stressed, whether it be in the High Street or in Tesco, but here were the organized people with time for leisure at this holiday time.

Lympstone - Swan Inn

On arriving in Lympstone I took a little time out to wander around the village and down to the shore. Lympstone is very quaint, full of narrow and winding streets that lead right down to the banks of the estuary. I could see that the Swan Inn was decorated for Christmas inside, but I didn’t stop to venture in.

 

 

Exmouth - snow and sand

 

 

I was rather intrigued to see how much snow there would be at Exmouth, as usually places on the coast have a much milder climate than places even a little distance inland. There was quite a lot of snow about, even down on the beach. Children had brought toboggans with them, and were having great fun using these on the snowy slopes of the sand dunes.

 

Exmouth - sunset

When I say snow, it was really more like ice. The long standing snow had been chilled yet further, possibly by the coastal breeze, and was now hard and slippery. I walked on the snow and found that I remained on the surface, as it had frozen so hard it could support my weight. Later, as I was about to make my way back from Orcombe Rocks, I was treated to a sunset that was really beautiful, in a sky that had only the merest wisps of clouds. The temperature was by now dropping fast, and another very cold night obviously lay ahead.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.8 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 1min
Stopped Time: 1hr 20min
Total Ascent: 156 metres
Maximum Elevation: 29 metres

Train: Digby-Sowton to Exmouth