Synopsis: Familiar territory, but beautiful to see on a glorious day like today. Slippery footwork on the steep slopes after a night of heavy rain. Lunch overlooking Pudcombe Cove proved a delightful setting.
I hadn’t planned a route for this walk, as my original intention for today was to walk near Axminster. I changed my plans at the last moment, as it had rained so heavily overnight, that I felt the countryside was going to be waterlogged. I reckoned on the coast being dryer and easier going. I caught a bus from Exeter for Torbay, and worked out a walk route as I went. I settled upon a stretch of coast which is a favourite of mine, for being wild, rugged, and unspoilt, coast between Brixham and Kingswear.
Man Sands - looking towards Berry Head
I passed two lovely coves on my walk, that of Man Sands first, followed by Scabbacombe Sands. There’s a lime kiln right down on the beach at at Man Sands, something that isn’t quite such a mystery to me now, having seen how one was fired up and used on the Edwardian Farm TV programme. Evidently a precise art, and not without its dangers, as a good deal of carbon monoxide is given off in the process of heating the lime to incredibly high temperatures.
Pudcombe Cove - light and shade - Monterey Pine, I believe
I had a robin for company as I sat down at Pudcombe Cove to eat my lunch, and what better company could there be? Pudcombe Cove is at the combe in which Coleton Fishacre is to be found. I had not intended to visit Coleton Fishacre today, which was just as well, as it was closed. I had thought it might have opened for half-term week.
Pudcombe Cove - light and shade - Monterey Pine, I believe
Coleton Fishacre is bordered by belts of Monterey Pine, these create a picturesque scene at the coastal end of the combe. The sun shone on me through the trees as I sat looking out over the cove eating my lunch. Someone passing me by said, “What more could you want than a lovely place to eat your lunch.” I replied, saying, “This will do me just fine.”
Mill Bay Cove - dramatic lighting
Just past Pudcombe Cove my route took me inland following signs for the Brownstone car park. I chose this route rather than follow the coastal path as it would save me a some time, and effort. I know that sounds lazy, and perhaps it was a little. But, the route I walked did afford me some lovely views down to the coast in the direction of Mill Bay Cove, so I feel at least in part vindicated in my choice of route.
Kingswear - railway station - Art Deco style poster
Coming through Kingswear, which I didn’t have much time to explore, I did see this poster on the wall of the Kingswear Railway Station. The Paignton to Dartmouth Steam Railway, as it is known, is a lovely railway, but I’m not quite convinced it has the elegance suggested by this poster, which to me is more reminiscent of The Orient Express. Still, since Agatha Christie lived nearby at Greenway, perhaps we can excuse this little artistic indulgence.
A wonderful day’s walking. After a night of persistent heavy rain, I very nearly didn’t go out at all. Thank goodness I had the good sense to trust in the weather forecast which predicted sun. It was glorious!
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 8.1 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 22min
Stopped Time: 39min
Total Ascent: 637 metres
Maximum Elevation: 169 metres
Buses: X46, 12 & 120
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