Saturday, 21 March 2009

21 March 2009 – Agatha Christie’s Greenway - A Day Out

Synopsis: A day out by bus, travelling to Torbay. We first visited Greenway (NT), the holiday home of Agatha Christie. We then caught a ferry from Greenway Quay down to Dartmouth.

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022 Greenway039 Greenway044 Greenway050 Greenway Ferry089 Dartmouth099 Dartmouth(selection of photos from Flickr photo album – use link above to view album)

This 'Mothering Saturday' day out seemed to go as well as I might have hoped. The weather was brilliant, Greenway looked marvellous, the food and drink was good, and the company excellent. And we didn't miss a connection (just), and made good time on all legs of the journey.

003 Exeter - Ludwell Valley ParkThe walking party sets off across Ludwell Valley Park this early Saturday morning.

The day started with the sun coming up over the hills and deep frost on the grass. We were all met up by 6:30 and set off across Ludwell Valley Park for our first bus, the 7:10 to Newton Abbot. By 7:55 we were in ASDA waiting for the cafe to open in 5 minutes, so that we might get some breakfast. We all have a light snack, except Louise who settles on sausage baps. I can sympathize: this early a body needs all the help it can get.

 

 

 

009 Galmpton to GreenwayView of Dittisham across the River Dart.

We then return to catch the bus for the next leg of our journey which will take about an hour, a bus trip to Broadsands that will take us along the seafront of Torquay, finally arriving at Broadsands by 9:50. From here we start our walk to Greenway down country lanes, a distance of 2.2 miles, which we cover in 55 minutes, arriving at Greenway by 10:45. On the way we pass the Church of the Good Shepherd, Galmpton. We pass comment on the 'pub of the drunken shepherd'. Apparently the Galmpton church used to be a cider barn, so obviously there's been something of a conversion at this establishment. As we entered the gate of the Greenway estate at the head of Greenway drive we were greeted with a "We like walkers here", which was nice to hear.

012 GreenwayFountain in the Fern Garden, Greenway.

As the house can only accommodate a certain number of visitors at any one time, entrance is by timed ticket, and ours is for 11:20, which gives us a small amount of time to explore some of the garden. Some of the plants in the greenhouse seem to have been hit hard by our long cold winter. From here we walk on to the Fern Garden, and then circle back to the house. We drop our bags in lockers and brush our boots clean, and after an inspection, we're allowed into the house.

 

 

 

014 GreenwayGreenway House

 

 


All the furniture was acquired by the National Trust along with the house. There are plenty of Agatha Christie novels filling most of the book shelves. The furniture is just how you would imagine a 50s house to be like. It's easy to picture Agatha reading her novel to her husband who would attempt to solve the mystery. Although a holiday home not a working home, Agatha did apparently do some proof reading whilst at Greenway.

There is a frieze around the wall of the lounge, painted by American troops stationed here during World War II. The person who painted the frieze was a trained artist, and his work is very good, and has survived the years well. It is very evocative of what those times must have been like.

We have a light lunch in the Barn Cafe which is just behind the stables. I have a bottle of Moggie beer, named after the venerable Morris Minor, not the cat. We're running a little late and haven't seen all the garden, so I suggest we postpone our ferry trip to Dartmouth from the original time of 01:30 back to 02:30. We're all agreed with that, and so spend some more time in the garden. A little too much as it happens, as we lose our way trying to get to Greenway Quay, and only arrive just as the last passengers are boarding. We manage to stall the boat departure, purchase our tickets and are on board and away within minutes.

050 Greenway FerryDeparting on the Ferry from Greenway Quay.

As the ferry boat casts off we look across to Dittisham on the other side of the River Dart. Then a little further down stream we look up and see Greenway House, perched majestically above the river. It is certainly a location that commands the river. The Greenway boat house comes into sight, which is where I imagine a private boat would have been kept. How handy is that?

 

 

 

 

078 DartmouthDartmouth bandstand

On landing at Dartmouth at 3:00, we take a little stroll around the gardens and through the town, finally purchasing ice creams and eating these on benches by the river front. There's a biting cold wind coming in off the sea, so we're soon looking to be on our way. We board the lower ferry and travel across to Kingswear where we catch a bus (4:00) back to Paignton.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We're running a little early as we arrive in Torquay at 16:50, so we find a cafe on the harbour-side and have tea. We then catch the 17:40 X46 as planned, and head for Exeter. We had dinner at Cafe Rouge in the Exeter city centre, which was a very nice way to end the day. Our final bus of the day was an H1/H2 from the High Street at 9:00 which gets us home by about 9:30.

The day went well, and I think everyone enjoyed themselves. The weather was gorgeous, and Greenway proved a lovely place to visit. It was a long day, and quite tiring, but worth the effort. Thanks to everyone that came and made this such a splendid day. I wonder if this might set a 'Mothering Saturday' trend in our family. Well, who wants to be conventional anyway?

The planning behind this trip can be seen here as another blog post for this same day.

Journey Statistics:

Total Distance: 80.5 m Walk from Broadsands to Greenway:
Distance: 2.2 miles
Duration: 55 mins
Average Speed: 2.4 mph
Total Ascent: 74.4 metres
Maximum Elevation: 71 metres

Ferry from Greenway Quay to Dartmouth
Distance: 2.5 miles
Duration: 30 mins

Buses: X64, 12, 120, X46, H1/H2

Saturday, 14 March 2009

14 March 2009 – Grand Western Canal & Knightshayes (14.6 Miles)

Synopsis: A walk along the tow-path of the Grand Western Canal followed by a short visit to the gardens at Knightshayes (NT). Continued on into Tiverton to catch a bus back to Exeter.

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013 Grand Western Canal034 Grand Western Canal051 Grand Western Canal096 Knightshayes, Near Tiverton142 Knightshayes, Near Tiverton147 Knightshayes, Near Tiverton
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

This was an interesting combination of walk and garden visit. The walking was along the the Grand Western Canal (GWC), and the garden visited was that at Knightshayes (National Trust). The day was forecast to be cloudy in the morning, with sun coming by the afternoon, but, still in my pyjamas, I peeked my head through the curtains, and was greeted with the sun having risen first thing, so I thought I should be second thing and got up at 6:40.

033 Grand Western CanalDaffodils on the Grand Western Canal.

It was a bit of a dash, as I knew I had to catch the number 1 bus from Exeter bus station, so had to get my skates on. I had little idea what to do the night before, as nothing was coming into mind despite staring at various maps. I took some bus timetable and maps with me to bed (as you do), and it was then that I hit upon the idea of a garden visit, as there should be daffodils about, and Knightshayes seemed a good choice. But I felt I needed some exercise too, and suddenly it all fell into place. I could see a way of walking a stretch of the Grand Western Canal near Tiverton, where there might also be daffodils, then break off from here for Knightshayes. A combination walk/garden day!

The bus up to the walk start took me through Willand and Uffculme, villages I don’t know well, but they look idyllic. It is however alarming how the bus shims its way down the village streets with only inches to spare. The stop-off point for me was to be Tiverton Parkway, as it’s only a short hop from here to join the GWC.

017 Grand Western CanalSampford Peverell church

Early into my trek the GWC passes through the village of Sampford Peverell, the church no distance away, the cemetery running down to the canal. The graveyard inhabitants must be dipping their toes in the water – they’ll catch their death! laughing

Just on from where the church of Sampford Peverell meets the GWC is a weeping willow that lies aslant the Grand Western Canal. Ok, I confess I never would have made a poet!

There are quite a few cyclists and dog walkers pass me by as I walk the GWC. It’s an ideal place for both of these activities, and fishing too. And I note that pubs, cafes and toilets are well signposted all along the way, so whatever your favoured recreation, you should find yourself well catered for.

 

 

I’m impressed by the engineering feats of these proto-roadmen which are evident to me a I walk the canal. Not only are there numerous bridges, but whole valleys have been spanned by earthwork embankments of some considerable scale, such that the need for locks is completely negated. A boatman could sail on through unhindered, leaving his wife at home, and have not a care in the world – perfect peace and tranquillity! smug

066 ChettiscombeChettiscombe - quaint in the extreme!

As I approach Tiverton I break off from the GWC and travel some lanes before eventually breaking off across country in the direction of Knightshayes. I come across the most perfect of little hamlets called Chettiscombe right on the doorstep of Knightshayes; quaint in the extreme. I asked a man cutting his hedge how I might best get to Knightshayes. He explained that there is a walk along the forest edge called the Impey Way, and that would be my most direct route. This takes me to the main carpark of Knightshayes. I’m a little embarrassed by my muddy appearance, but I think I might just possibly have sneaked by unnoticed. don't tell anyone

 

152 Knightshayes, Near TivertonKnightshayes (National Trust). Daffodils line the entrance drive.

There were swathes of daffodils in flower, but not quite so many as I had thought there would be. I think they are generally a little behind those in Exeter, which are already well advanced. I was surprised to see some of the rhododendrons already in flower, but that was a nice bonus treat. There were also iris and hellebores in flower, and pansies of course. Lovely gardens and a nice way to finish my walk. I have some light refreshments on a bench then I’m on my way into Tiverton. I’m soon on the bus for home.

 

 

 

 

 


A terrific day, especially when I consider I had nothing planned the night before.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 14.6 m
Walk Time: (moving): 5 hrs 26 mins
Walk Time: (stopped): 1 hrs 11 mins
Total Ascent: 426 metres
Maximum Elevation: 161 metres

Bus: Stagecoach 1, 55A and H1/H2

Saturday, 21 February 2009

21 February 2009 - Walk: Timberscombe to Wheddon Cross (11.00 miles)

Synopsis: This was the day for me to visit the legendary Snow Drop Valley, on Exmoor. Tea making kit packed in my rucksack, off I set by bus for this splendid wintery walk.

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(selection of photos from Flickr photo album – use link above to view album)

So, eventually I get to do the walk denied me by the snows of 7th February. Once again it is an early start, getting up at 5am, as I have to catch the 8.14 bus out of Wheddon Cross. I actually arrive here with 30 minutes to spare, so plenty of time to get my boots on and walk a quick circuit of the village. The bus is punctual, so I’m soon on my way to Timberscombe, my walk start point, a little further along the A396 in the direction of Minehead.

011 Wootton CourtenayPink cottages of Wootton Courtenay

The day is warm and dry, but there’s quite a lot of low cloud about, which I see is hanging on Dunkery Beacon, a destination on this walk. As I skirt the edge of Wootton Courtenay there are some beautiful cottages to be seen. I climb out onto the moor and see some interesting plays of light on the trees which I’ve attempted to capture in some of my photographs.

 

 


 

047 Exmoor Wooden footbridge sees me on my way

I pick up a road and descend into a wooded valley. There is a wooden footbridge I use to cross the stream and then begins a long hard slog up Dunkery Beacon. I think to myself I’m feeling my age, but when later, at the end of the walk, I look at the statistics (from my GPS) I see I’ve actually achieved quite a lot, so I don’t feel so bad. whew!There’s not much to see at Dunkery Beacon, despite all my efforts to reach here, as the top is shrouded in fog. At least the feel-good-factor makes the effort seem worthwhile. There are some substantial banks of snow still remaining on the hillside from the snows of two weeks ago, testimony I feel to how much snow fell on Exmoor.

 

073 ExmoorTime for tea!

I descend from here in the direction of Snowdrop Valley. Before reaching the valley I break on the hillside to have my lunch. I get the kettle on and brew up, as I find there is nothing like a good hot cup of tea. I’ve inherited the tea making rite from Dad, who always enjoyed a cuppa.

It’s very noticeable to me how much damage was done to the trees by the snows of two week’s previous. Everywhere I walk there are signs of fallen trees and snapped branches. I suppose the first heavy snows for twenty years exposed all the weaknesses in our trees.

 

121 ExmoorSnowdrops at head of Snowdrop Valley

 

My favourite snowdrop site is right at the head of the valley, at the confluence of two streams. I know this patch from a previous visit several years earlier. The snowdrops here are just perfectly naturalised into a bank; I feel the setting is perfect. Not only that, but my timing is perfect too. I get my photos whilst the sun shines on them obliquely across the valley, and just as I plan to move on the sun drops below some trees on the opposite valley and the snowdrops are left in shade.

 

 

 

 

 

172 ExmoorCarpet of snowdrops

Further down this valley I eventually come to the main visitor site of Snowdrop Valley, where the densest growth is to be found. I follow the circuit, a path that loops around from the bus drop-off point. I do enjoy seeing the profusion of snowdrops here, which has to be said is stunning, but the numbers of visitors and the general setting I find less than totally appealing. Banks of snowdrops (just like bluebells) are difficult to photograph, and can appear as just a splotch of white in a photo. I endeavour to do the best I can, but the valley is already in shade (at 3pm), so the light is quite flat. At least there isn’t any wind to blur the flowers at the slow shutter speeds I am using. I’m at the end of my walk by now, with less than a mile to walk to my car, so I take my time and enjoy my visit to Snowdrop Valley.

So, what about my photos then? Well, if you like snowdrops, then I think you’re in for a treat. If not, you’d best pass them by! And what next? Well, daffodils of course! big grin

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 11.00m
Walk Time: (moving): 4 hrs 44 mins
Walk Time: (stopped): 2 hrs 10 mins
Total Ascent: 807 metres
Maximum Elevation: 530 metres

Bus: First 398 (travelled Wheddon Cross to Timberscombe)

Saturday, 7 February 2009

07 February 2009 - Walk: Dulverton to Winsford Hill, Exmoor (10.17 miles)

Synopsis: The snow did fall, and the wind did blow, sculpting shapes into the drifts. This was tough walking, the snow being so deep, but what a great day it was.

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010 Exmoor
029 Exmoor031 Exmoor035 Exmoor073 Exmoor(selection of photos from Flickr photo album – use link above to view album)

Well, today's walk was quite unusual. It was the hardest, slowest, toughest, most exhilarating walk I've done in a long time. Little did I know just how deep the snow on Exmoor was going to be, nor how quiet and alone I should find myself. It seemed as if I had Exmoor to myself, which meant I was often traipsing my own path through fresh snow, which sapped all my strength. More than once I felt I wasn't going to get through, standing in snow up to my waste, but I battled on, and I'm glad I did. I'd never before experienced the daunting feeling of staring into a field of virgin snow, not being able to see my exit over the horizon, and wondering just how deep the snow might be. It felt as if I could disappear forever in a sea of snow. And as I launched myself across this field, whether I was on a path or not, I really hadn't the foggiest idea. happy

040 ExmoorNot so clear lane!

As I struggled on, often loosing my balance and falling into the snow, I looked at my map and could see that there was a chance the going might improve, a lane shown on the map just  ahead, and I decide to head for that. I’m hoping that at the very least a tractor might have travelled along it, and laid a track I could walk in. I reached the lane, but no such luck. Nothing had been there before me, and therefore I continued to thrash my way, slightly daunted, through the deep snow. Just on from here I see some sheep being fed in a field nearby, the farmer dropping bales of hay for them to feed on. I hadn't thought of this - there's not a blade of grass to be seen anywhere!

052 ExmoorBeast of Exmoor or rabbit?

 

At this point I see some tracks in the snow which I can't make out. I've been seeing animal tracks throughout my walk, most I think are deer and foxes. Finally I do reach a clear section further down the lane, and here I find there are sheep that the farmer has cordoned off with temporary gates across the lane, I guess so that watch can be kept over them better (see video above). But past the farm there's yet more drifts of snow, so obviously the farmer hasn't ventured far from his dwelling, and I have to resort to wading my way through deep banks of snow once again. One interesting thing I see as I walk this untrammelled snow is the wind has sculpted fascinating shapes here and there, such as where there are gates to the lane. It's a kind of Mr Whippy effect in the snow, which can be seen in some of my photographs.

 

This wasn't the walk I'd planned for today. I'd planned to drive to Wheddon Cross and catch the 8:15 bus to Timberscombe, circling back through Snowdrop Valley finally returning to Wheddon Cross. I had been making good progress on this plan till I went 'over the border' into Somerset. The roads in Devon were clear of snow and fallen trees, but as soon as I entered Somerset the roads were white and fallen trees littered the way forward. A driver coming the other way said it was impossible to get through as further ahead a tree had fallen across the road, and completely barred progress. He was right! Now the problem was how to turn, as cars had cleared only a single track through the snow. I knew this could be dodgy, and yes, my drive wheels became stuck in the snow and I find I’m going nowhere. Luckily a highway's van is parked nearby, no one else about. I look in the back and there is a shovel - brilliant! I dig out some snow from around my front wheels, and then I'm soon out. Must remember to always carry a spade when it snows!

004 ExmoorDulverton rooftops

Following the stuck car episode, I decide to alter my plans and walk elsewhere.  The scenery is too good to pass up. I drive into Dulverton with the intention of walking from there. Trouble is I can't get into the lower car park as the snow is too deep. I discover from an information board there's another car park at the top end of the village, and on inspection, I think I can park here, if only I can get a run-up to enter the car park. At last my car is stowed away and I'm ready to walk by just after 9:00. The photo on the right looks across Dulverton churchyard to the snow-capped houses of the village.

 

038 ExmoorHeavy going!

The walk starts out quite well, climbing above Dulverton, the snow not being too deep, what with the odd dog walker having trampled out a path for me to follow. But soon, as I start to ascend onto Exmoor, the snow gets deeper and deeper, and the dog walkers desert me leaving me to make my own trail. It's not long before I experience that sinking feeling I mentioned earlier! The track (just visible) in the photo on the right will give you some idea of what it was like.

 

091 ExmoorCaractacus Stone


 

Later in the walk, as I approached the Caractacus Stone, the road across Exmoor came into sight, and I could see why I had the place to myself. The road over the moor hadn't been cleared and probably would have only been passable (safely, at least) in a 4-wheel drive car (see photo). The origins of the Caractacus stone are said to be of the 5th century. Caractacus is believed to have been a warrior Briton who led an army against the Romans, and lost (we had stopped to have tea). Brave but forlorn! I pay homage to him at his shrine.


 


It was a fantastic walk, as everywhere looked beautiful in the snow. I had a fair amount of sun and only a little snow fell. I shall be a little less likely to underestimate quite what it takes to walk in snow the next time I go out in it, which will probably be 20 years hence on recent track records. Ok, that'll make me 73, so you're right, I'll probably be in front the fire with my slippers on drinking cocoa when it next snows. Ah well, all the more reason for my having got out there and done this sort of thing whilst I still can! I hope you enjoy my photos.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 10.17m
Walk Time: (moving): 5 hrs 11 mins
Walk Time: (stopped): 1 hrs 17 mins
Total Ascent: 411 metres
Maximum Elevation: 384 metres