Synopsis: The snow did fall, and the wind did blow, sculpting shapes into the drifts. This was tough walking, the snow being so deep, but what a great day it was.
Well, today's walk was quite unusual. It was the hardest, slowest, toughest, most exhilarating walk I've done in a long time. Little did I know just how deep the snow on Exmoor was going to be, nor how quiet and alone I should find myself. It seemed as if I had Exmoor to myself, which meant I was often traipsing my own path through fresh snow, which sapped all my strength. More than once I felt I wasn't going to get through, standing in snow up to my waste, but I battled on, and I'm glad I did. I'd never before experienced the daunting feeling of staring into a field of virgin snow, not being able to see my exit over the horizon, and wondering just how deep the snow might be. It felt as if I could disappear forever in a sea of snow. And as I launched myself across this field, whether I was on a path or not, I really hadn't the foggiest idea.
As I struggled on, often loosing my balance and falling into the snow, I looked at my map and could see that there was a chance the going might improve, a lane shown on the map just ahead, and I decide to head for that. I’m hoping that at the very least a tractor might have travelled along it, and laid a track I could walk in. I reached the lane, but no such luck. Nothing had been there before me, and therefore I continued to thrash my way, slightly daunted, through the deep snow. Just on from here I see some sheep being fed in a field nearby, the farmer dropping bales of hay for them to feed on. I hadn't thought of this - there's not a blade of grass to be seen anywhere!
At this point I see some tracks in the snow which I can't make out. I've been seeing animal tracks throughout my walk, most I think are deer and foxes. Finally I do reach a clear section further down the lane, and here I find there are sheep that the farmer has cordoned off with temporary gates across the lane, I guess so that watch can be kept over them better (see video above). But past the farm there's yet more drifts of snow, so obviously the farmer hasn't ventured far from his dwelling, and I have to resort to wading my way through deep banks of snow once again. One interesting thing I see as I walk this untrammelled snow is the wind has sculpted fascinating shapes here and there, such as where there are gates to the lane. It's a kind of Mr Whippy effect in the snow, which can be seen in some of my photographs.
This wasn't the walk I'd planned for today. I'd planned to drive to Wheddon Cross and catch the 8:15 bus to Timberscombe, circling back through Snowdrop Valley finally returning to Wheddon Cross. I had been making good progress on this plan till I went 'over the border' into Somerset. The roads in Devon were clear of snow and fallen trees, but as soon as I entered Somerset the roads were white and fallen trees littered the way forward. A driver coming the other way said it was impossible to get through as further ahead a tree had fallen across the road, and completely barred progress. He was right! Now the problem was how to turn, as cars had cleared only a single track through the snow. I knew this could be dodgy, and yes, my drive wheels became stuck in the snow and I find I’m going nowhere. Luckily a highway's van is parked nearby, no one else about. I look in the back and there is a shovel - brilliant! I dig out some snow from around my front wheels, and then I'm soon out. Must remember to always carry a spade when it snows!
Following the stuck car episode, I decide to alter my plans and walk elsewhere. The scenery is too good to pass up. I drive into Dulverton with the intention of walking from there. Trouble is I can't get into the lower car park as the snow is too deep. I discover from an information board there's another car park at the top end of the village, and on inspection, I think I can park here, if only I can get a run-up to enter the car park. At last my car is stowed away and I'm ready to walk by just after 9:00. The photo on the right looks across Dulverton churchyard to the snow-capped houses of the village.
The walk starts out quite well, climbing above Dulverton, the snow not being too deep, what with the odd dog walker having trampled out a path for me to follow. But soon, as I start to ascend onto Exmoor, the snow gets deeper and deeper, and the dog walkers desert me leaving me to make my own trail. It's not long before I experience that sinking feeling I mentioned earlier! The track (just visible) in the photo on the right will give you some idea of what it was like.
Later in the walk, as I approached the Caractacus Stone, the road across Exmoor came into sight, and I could see why I had the place to myself. The road over the moor hadn't been cleared and probably would have only been passable (safely, at least) in a 4-wheel drive car (see photo). The origins of the Caractacus stone are said to be of the 5th century. Caractacus is believed to have been a warrior Briton who led an army against the Romans, and lost (we had stopped to have tea). Brave but forlorn! I pay homage to him at his shrine.
It was a fantastic walk, as everywhere looked beautiful in the snow. I had a fair amount of sun and only a little snow fell. I shall be a little less likely to underestimate quite what it takes to walk in snow the next time I go out in it, which will probably be 20 years hence on recent track records. Ok, that'll make me 73, so you're right, I'll probably be in front the fire with my slippers on drinking cocoa when it next snows. Ah well, all the more reason for my having got out there and done this sort of thing whilst I still can! I hope you enjoy my photos.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 10.17m
Walk Time: (moving): 5 hrs 11 mins
Walk Time: (stopped): 1 hrs 17 mins
Total Ascent: 411 metres
Maximum Elevation: 384 metres
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