Synopsis: By train and bus to Torbay for coastal path walk Pudcombe Cove to Berry Head and then on to Brixham. Includes a brief walk around the gardens at Coleton Fishacre (National Trust). Glorious weather.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
Today’s walk was to be in familiar territory having been this way several times previously (see links below). But, this is a great stretch of coastline that is easily accessible for me by train/bus. An early start was required, as my train departed at 7:37. The bus from Paignton bus station dropped me at the bus stop at Nethway Cross (50.364802, -3.551474 [Ordnance Survey on Bing Maps]) which is at the intersection of the lane to to Coleton Fishacre with the B3205 Paignton-Kingswear road. It’s a 2.5 Kms (1.5 mile) walk to the entrance of Coleton Fishacre from the bus stop.
Although Coleton Fishacre (NT) wasn’t a primary purpose for me today, it’s a lovely place, one that I repeatedly return to (this is my second visit this year). As a member of the trust, I enter for free, but if not a member, then it does need to be borne in mind that an entrance fee will be required at the property. An alternative to walking through the gardens of Coleton Fishacre would be to park at what I believe is named Coleton Park, which is to be found on the left at the top of Coleton Fishacre drive (50.351038, -3.534196 [Ordnance Survey on Bing Maps). There is a footpath that leads off from this car park that connects with the coastal path approximately 500 metres east of Pudcombe Cove.
I arrived at Coleton Fishacre (NT) slightly too early, as the property was still locked, and a small queue was forming at the entrance to reception. It wasn’t my intention to stay long in the gardens. I expected the azaleas and rhododendrons to be in flower, so I sought these out. This was the best colour to be found in the garden this early in the season. There were bluebells and wild garlic also in flower, carpeting the undergrowth below the tree ferns.
There was one particular plant that appealed to me, a rhododendron I think, which was more subtle than is usual. It was hard to capture in a photograph, as I was unable to get that close.
I exited the gardens of Coleton Fishacre through the gate at the bottom of the valley. The coastal path is only a few metres from this gate. I hesitated briefly at the viewing point from which it is possible to look out on Pudcombe Cove, and far below, see the sea-water swimming pool created in the 1920s. No path to the sea now exists, but at one time there was a zig-zag path down to the tiny cove (an historic photo can be found in the garden shed). I passed a little time chatting to a friendly couple standing nearby. But with much walking to do, it was necessary for me to be on my way, and so I headed eastward, out of Pudcombe Cove.
I climbed for a short distance through trees but was very soon heading out along a reasonably level stretch of coast path headed for the rocky headland near Ivy Cove. The path descended quite steeply here, but then levelled out once again, as I made for Scabbacombe Head. Skirting the headland it was only a short time before Scabbacombe Sands came into view. The path entered the shade of some trees, which were too inviting to pass-up, so, although rather early (12:30), I opted to break for a picnic lunch.
After my quick, 30-minute, binge, I set off once again, descending towards the beach at Scabbacombe Sands. I only halted very briefly, as it was then necessary for me to begin an arduous ascent back to the top of the cliffs. This I took at a slow steady pace.
There was a small amount of respite in the way of some level coastal path that took me towards Crabrock Point. Here the path ominously dropped once again, and down I went to near sea level at a beach named Man Sands. There’s a solitary building standing here, its purpose unknown to me, and a small lagoon just inland. Once again, I halted only briefly, as yet again I faced another steep climb out of here to the top of the cliffs.
Having reached the top of Southdown Cliff, I was pretty sure that was the last really stiff climb of the day behind me, a belief later proven to have been correct. A mix of level and mildly undulating path got me as far as Sharkham Point. From here, the view across St Mary’s Bay opened up in front of me.
I followed the path around St Mary’s Bay. There were more people milling around as I circled the bay, as there are a number of campsites in the neighbourhood. Children were enjoying themselves on the beach, but, thankfully, it was not necessary for me to drop down to the shoreline. I made good progress towards Berry Head.
I continued on in my intended direction and soon reached one of the old fortresses to be found here on Berry Head, South Fort. The formidable thick walls make for an impressive structure. The path here cut inland a little, to circle the South Fort, my route being across grass to North Fort, which I entered through an enormous gate structure, I headed for the Visitor Centre, just inside the entrance, and sought out some shade beside the building, to sit and eat an apple. A little well deserved rest.
Having ‘fortified’ myself (sorry!), I made my way out to the very furthest point on the headland, at which the cliff falls away steeply. It’s a good place to check-out your vertigo. From here I looked out across the broad sweep of Torbay. It was a sight to behold. There is an operational lighthouse situated here. The Light Between Oceans.
My walk was by now pretty much complete. I set off for Brixham for the purpose of finding a bus back to Paignton. What I next came upon was a complete surprise. Everyone, or so it seemed, was dressed in pirate costumes. Apparently it was Brixham Pirate Festival, something I’d not heard of, and wasn’t expecting at all. Brixham was packed. I will say I was impressed. People were really into the spirit of the event. There were stalls and sideshows, and even a pirate ship to walk around. It felt like everyone was in Brixham and having fun.
I feared for my chances of a seat on a bus out, but I needn’t have worried. A very efficient shuttle-bus service was ferrying people out, first to a park-and-ride car park nearby, and then on to Paignton and Torquay. I had a bus seat on an admittedly rather crowded bus. And I made good time to Paignton railway station, from where a train was due in about 10 minutes. I was soon being whisked in the direction of home.
It had proved to be a testing walk (see Total Ascent stats below), but somehow I had mustered the required strength and energy. And, yes, as crazy as this might seem, I thoroughly enjoyed the walking. It’s good to push oneself once in a while. And the weather had been perfect too.
Previous occasions on which I’ve walked this way:
*** 06 May 2009 – Walk: Coleton Fishacre to Paignton (16.6 Miles) – Wow! This was impressive, to have walked so far, and check-out the total ascent on this walk in the stats.
*** 19 February 2011 – Walk: Brixham to Kingswear (8.1 Miles) – The opposite direction to my walk today, and bypassing Coleton Fishacre.
*** 03 October 2015 - Walk: Hillhead to Colleton Fishacre (NT), then Kingswear (9.3 Miles) – A walk with a couple of ex-colleagues of mine. We cut inland through Coleton Fishacre and down to the Day Mark before picking up the coast path once again.
Suggested further reading:
Coleton Fishacre: The Garden by the Sea (Parks & Gardens UK)
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 16.7 km / 10.4 miles
Moving Time: 6hrs 03min
Stopped Time: 40min
Total Ascent: 741 metres
Maximum Elevation: 154 metres
Buses: 120 & 12 (Plus Bus ticket for Torbay purchased on train: £3.50)
…… Note: discount only applies to national railcards, not local railcards
Trains: Digby & Sowton to Paignton – off-peak day return with Devon & Cornwall Railcard: £5:70
…… Normal ticket price, without railcard discount (33%) would have been: £8.30
Train out: 07:37 – 08:48 (1hr 11mins) – no changes
Train return: 17:11 – 18:26 (1hr 15mins) – no changes
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