Synopsis: An organised walk from Coggan’s Well in the centre of Tiverton to the source of the leat that supplies the well. Well supported, with 580 walkers completing the route. I have the certificate.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
My ex-colleague Gill, who lives in Tiverton, told me of this forthcoming event months ago. I said at that time, it sounds interesting, and we agreed that I’d join her to do the walk together. Gill’s sister Diane also joined us for the initial stage, as far as the brief halt at the Waterworks at Allers.
A little history first. The Perambulation of the Town Leat is a traditional mediaeval custom, also known as water-bailing, that takes place in the town of Tiverton, once every seven years. The event commemorates and claims the gift of the town's water supply in the 13th century from Isabella, Countess of Devon. Isabella is an interesting character. Thought to have been the wealthiest most powerful woman in the country at the time. The granting of the Tiverton Leat was, I presume, a form of noblesse oblige, in the words of Nancy Mitford. Isabella is the countess that gives Countess Wear, in Exeter, its name. Her primary residence was Carisbrooke Castle (EH), on the Isle of Wight. Her mother, Amicia, founded Buckland Abbey (NT). I don’t know if a likeness of Isabella exists, but this photo shows what is said to be a possible likeness of Amicia, a sculpted portrait on the walls of Buckland Abbey. Today, the bloodline and title Earl of Devon resides with the Courtenays of Powderham Castle.
Coggan’s Well, a small trickle of water, bubbling to the surface in Fore Street, Tiverton, was the start point of the walk. A band played and a town dignitary made a proclamation of what was taking place today and the significance of this historic tradition and the right of the people of Tiverton. There was, within the crowd today, a great sense of being part of 800 years of history. The way was initially slow, as we squeezed through a narrow alleyway beside the pannier market.
The way then opened up a little, as it follows a course down the middle of a road, by the town’s Masonic Lodge. This is a very picturesque part of Tiverton, and its lovely to see the water course has not been lost in a culvert, as is typically the case. Yes, there was a little rain, and an umbrella was a useful piece of equipment to be carrying today, but on we marched, unperturbed, in best English tradition.
Apparently, written into the deeds of houses through whose property the leat flows, is a covenant, that allows the people to march through their grounds once every seven years. Although the leat has long ceased to be the towns water supply, it’s lovely that this old historic privilege survives in the laws of this country. The way we took did in deed pass through some attractive gardens of town houses.
We walked through suburbs and on into the countryside, passing the grounds of Knightshayes (NT), without actually seeing the property, just the Impey Walk entrance path. We passed Chettiscombe, a picturesque set of cottages by the leat. Climbing a lane for a short distance took us to the Aller Waterworks, which was another proclamation halt, and toilet stop (just the one toilet, so quite a queue!).
We were, by now, out in the countryside. The leat could still be seen wending its way through fields and woods, sometimes to our right, sometimes to our left. There was a great feeling of camaraderie, seeing the long snake of people curling its way into the distance. Odd thing was, everyone seemed to know everyone else. I, of course, was something of an interloper, but I think that went largely unnoticed.
There was mud, as there always is in the countryside, and crossing the leat had to be done with care. A couple of stiles caused quite a bottleneck, as people struggled to negotiate them. No one seemed in that much of a hurry; these 800-year old traditions have to be allowed to assume their own inexorable pace.
And so, finally, some tiring a little, we reached the source of the Tiverton Leat. It’s a fairly modest affair, just a corner of a field, with a metal marker stuck in the ground. But, of course, that was the place to stand and have our photos taken, our badge of honour. The post had been provided by a previous mayor of Tiverton, a Mr. A.T. Gregory. As the year on the post was slightly obscured by damage, I had to research the date. It would seem the post was erected in 1912.
There was a marquee with a band playing at a nearby field, which is where all the leat-blazers congregated for beer and pizza. It had been a great experience, and lovely to see the community coming together like this, and having such fun. Still it rained. Gill and I were grateful for the lift her sister Diane offered us, to get us back to Tiverton. I was soon on the bus, and traveling home once again.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 10.1 km / 6.3 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 54min
Stopped Time: 47min
Total Ascent: 212 metres
Maximum Elevation: 482 metres
Buses: D & 55
A very interesting read.I never knew of the leat. Many thanks
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you found my post interesting Terry. Maybe I'll see you on the perambulation in 2014.
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