Synopsis: Trees, were going to be the theme for today. At least, that was the theory. There aren’t big forest walks around Exeter, but I did find some patches here and there. Excellent country views.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
This is a walk with great potential, more than was realised today, since the weather wasn’t perfect. There was a lot of low cloud and a mist in the air, and so the views, as promising as they were, weren’t maximised on today’s walk. But let me tell the story of how the day went.
A reasonably early start, with my catching the 8:40 train from Digby and Sowton rail station as intended. By 9:07 I was walking through the streets of Starcross. And thus began a gradual ascent in the general direction of Haldon. It was relatively light walking, and anyhow, I wasn’t intending to reach the top of Haldon. One of the woods that I passed was quite categorically marked ‘Private’, so that, unfortunately, was off limits.
However, walking on, I was to eventually reach Black Forest. Not quite in the same league as Germany’s version, but still I found it to be quite charming, in its very English way. As I thought would be the case, the changing colours of the leaves on the trees and littering the forest floor, and the ferns dying back too, made a delightful palette. And I had the forest to myself; well, not altogether true, as my walk was accompanied by a good deal of bird song from birds hiding somewhere out of sight.
I passed by a number of charming country properties on this walk, but perhaps the most unusual, not to say bizarre, was an ex telephone exchange that is now a holiday let. I remember seeing this property for sale some years previously, and thinking that some enterprising soul could make a go of that, which they evidently did. Tiny, though it may be, it commands a wonderful position, with views for miles, right down to the South Devon coast. I notice that Ordnance Survey maps on Bing still show it as a telephone exchange (these don’t tend to be the most up-to-date maps).
And then, a rather unpleasant woman accosted me from the porch of a building at a place named on the map Home Farm, asking why I was taking photos. On telling her, I took photos for my own use, she replied, saying that was alright. What is it with people’s lack of politeness today? I’ve a feeling her paranoia got the better of her, and she forgot her manners. But what a world it has become.
There was a stretch of walking that offered some lovely expansive views right down to the coast, but as explained earlier, the weather wasn’t the best, and poor visibility slightly dampened the effect today. I then entered what is called Long Lane, a lane that I well recognised, since I’d cycled it previously with my daughters on one of their summer visits. Long Lane leads into the back of Dawlish.
I picked my way through some of the suburbs of Dawlish approaching the Parish Church of St Gregory’s (Grade II* Listed). The church was locked. In the grounds of the church I noticed a rather intriguing structure over to one corner. I went over to take a closer look. The gates to it were padlocked so all I could do was glimpse through the bars of the gate. I could read that this was a monument to members of the Hoare family. Subsequent to the walk, I discovered it was indeed the Hoare Vaults in the Churchyard of St Gregory’s (Grade II listed).
This was mighty interesting. Not that I have any knowledge of the Hoare family. But, can you guess what this monument in Dawlish has in common with St Pancras Station? Well, pat on the back, if you said that it was the same architect, George Gilbert Scott, who designed both structures. Now, that’s a rather unlikely coincidence, don’t you think?
I made my way along what, on the Ordnance Survey map, is shown as a public footpath. In reality, it is nothing more than a back lane, so this was a rather inauspicious way through Dawlish to the seafront. But, eventually I found myself on the cliff path that descends towards Coryton’s Cove. Out on the coast at last, I experienced just how strong the wind was. I knew there were some benches just above Coryton’s Cove, and, to my welcome surprise, I discovered they were well protected from the gales. I therefore chose to make this the spot at which I would eat my picnic lunch.
After my picnicking I walked the length of Coryton’s Cove and then walked the sea wall into Dawlish. I then did the familiar duck-walk, if you care to think of it as such. That’s what people come to Dawlish to see, the ducks, swans and the geese. I did notice these cute chicks, newly arrived in this world, and seemingly ready for bold adventures.
I then made my way out to the seafront. I’d arrived far too early in Dawlish and had plenty of time to spare. I contemplated walking to Dawlish Warren, but the waves crashing against the sea wall were a little daunting. But I could see people were on the wall, so I decided that was what I’d do. As it happened, the tide was just far enough out not to pose a problem.
On arriving in Dawlish Warren, I walked out to the nature reserve centre and paid it my first visit. There are a number of interesting information panels at the centre, and so I spent some time perusing these. I got talking to the gentleman behind the desk. We spoke of the storms and the floods, and the times when chalets occupied this rather precarious spit. I happened to notice that they had a copy of The Story of Dawlish Warren by Chips Barber. I had heard of this book, but hadn’t expected I’d be lucky enough to find a copy of it. That was a pleasant bonus to today’s walk.
By now I needed to be making tracks, as my father would have said. I had a train to catch, and the time of the next departure was fast approaching. I had just time to follow the path out to the sand dunes behind the nature reserve centre, and then walk through the dunes back in the direction of the station.
It was only a two coach train that arrived at Dawlish Warren rail station, which is always a pain, as they get so crowded, especially at this time of day. And sure enough, picking up additional passengers in Exeter, the carriage was soon full, all the seats taken, and people having to stand. I understand things are expected to be improved in the near future, with a promise that all trains will in future will be four coach trains. Plus a general refurbishment of the coaches is promised. This would all be most welcome.
Anyway, I sat back and read the news on my tablet PC on the journey home, one of the pleasures of not having to drive. More suicide bomb horrors taking place in the world today. It didn’t make for pleasant reading. If only we could learn to live in tolerance and harmony. Still, it had been a good day’s walking, with me covering greater distance than I’d originally planned. I felt well exercised by the time I reached home.
Please note that although I elected in the end to travel on my return journey from Dawlish Warren, rather than Dawlish, the ticket price is the same for both stations.
Interesting bonus fact: Did you know Dawlish Warren was once called Exmouth Warren? No? well, neither did I. Apparently on the grounds that the outer warren was, during the 1920s and 1930s when a small chalet community existed there, cut off at high tide by a tidal inlet, thus becoming an island, was closer to Exmouth than Dawlish. Provisions for the chalet community were shipped across from Exmouth at the time. [Book: The Story of Dawlish Warren, p.8, by Chips Barber]
Addendum (03/10/2017): Two years on, and I was passing the Parish Church of St Gregory’s (Grade II* Listed) when I noticed that the church was open. I took the opportunity to pop in and examine the interior, the first chance I’d had to do that. Photos I took of the interior of this church can be viewed at: 382 St Gregory's Church, Dawlish [Flickr].
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 20.13 km / 12.5 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 00min
Stopped Time: 1hr 09min
Total Ascent: 380 metres
Maximum Elevation: 117 metres
Buses: (none)
Trains: Digby & Sowton to Dawlish – off-peak day return with Devon & Cornwall Railcard: £3:10
…… Normal ticket price, without railcard discount (33%) would have been: £4.70
Train out: 08:40 – 09:07 (0hrs 27mins) – no changes (to Starcross)
Train return: 15:56 – 16:28 (0hrs 32mins) – no changes (from Dawlish Warren)
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