Synopsis: A drive to north Devon along roads lined with an array of autumn colour. A picnic lunch in the car before visiting Arlington Court, National Trust. Includes time in the interesting carriage museum.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
It had been quite some time since I’d visited Arlington Court (03 May 2010 – Trip: Arlington Court (National Trust), North Devon), so I thought it would be good to revisit. Mum was not feeling well enough to join me. I stopped off briefly to revisit the north Devon village of Burrington, one time home of my great-grandmother (see previous post: ‘31 May 2014 - Walk: Burrington to Eggesford’). I then pulled into a layby to eat my picnic lunch before arriving at Arlington Court and the National Trust Carriage Museum.
Arlington Court was busy on my arrival, with many people making use of the tea rooms, set in the original Victorian kitchen. Quite a number were sat at outdoor tables, the weather being so mild. I made my way towards the main entrance of the house so that I might begin my tour of house.
The entrance to the property (as seen in this photo) had at some time been shifted to the side of the building. Once inside it’s easy to see why, as the morning room runs the whole length of the south side of the building, to my mind making this the morning, afternoon and evening room all in one, since there are windows with an aspect from east, through south, to west.
This living space, with wonderful plaster ceilings and scagliola columns, is absolutely delightful. I understand the owner’s pet parrot was given free reign in this space. There are hidden partitions which allow for the possible segmentation of this otherwise full-length living room.
The stairs, which, because of the change to layout arising from the entrance being changed, no longer face what was once the main entrance to the house. They are no less imposing for this, commanding a well lit central position in the house. A companion of Rosalie Chichester, Chrissy Peters, painted various watercolours of the house, of which this picture of the stairs, circa 1914, is one. I’ve placed beside it what is my photo taken from an approximately (allowing for the grand piano in the foreground) similar view point.
I was informed by one of the stewards that Arlington Court did not have gas or electricity services at the time that it came into their possession. The National Trust had electricity installed. Prior to that, the lighting would therefore have been oil lamps. Although this looks like a rustic gas lantern, it must have always been, as seen here, an electric lamp of the type installed by the National Trust.
I rather liked this table lamp which must be a later addition, since it is in Art Nouveau style, a time when Arlington Court would not have had electricity. Elegant, all the same.
Apparently the last owner of the house, Rosalie Chichester, who left the house to the National Trust in 1949, would spend her summers at Arlington Court, but would retreat to her house, Parade House, in Woolacombe during the winter. Presumably Parade House had better amenities than those of Arlington Court, providing greater comfort during winter time.
A steward informed me that there were 3,500 acres attached to Arlington Court. The rents from tenant farmers must have contributed significantly to the fortunes of the Chichester family. The National Trust provides a number of walking options in their ‘Walking on the Arlington estate’ page, from where walk routes can be downloaded.
After a quick stroll around the garden lake I made my way to the carriage museum to be found housed in the stable block. The museum has a very impressive collection of horse drawn carriages and provides a wealth of information that tells the story of their variation and development. The collection now includes the Speaker’s State Coach. The coach has been fully restored and is quite simply a stunning work of art on wheels. Photography of the carriage is not permitted.
Time had now run out and it was getting dark, so I skipped the formal garden, which in summer is a treat to behold. If you’d like to take a look around Arlington Court prior to a visit, why not try the Virtual Tour of Arlington Court – National Trust.
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