Synopsis: Circular cycle route returning via Exmouth and the Exe Estuary Trail. Two churches of interest, Farringdon and Salem Church, East Budleigh. Budleigh Salterton to Exmouth via disused railway line.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
I desperately needed some exercise, so I thought I’d go for a good long cycle ride today. With nothing planned, I sat at my laptop in the morning and quickly plotted this route over Woodbury Common to Budleigh Salterton, returning along the Exe Estuary Trail. First mistake of the day was not packing a camera in my pannier. Second mistake, not setting my GPS tracklog recording before setting off, therefore I’ve no tracklog for this cycle ride. I’ve improvised by linking to the cycle route I plotted (see above). And, in case you’re wondering, I did have my tablet computer with me, so I used the camera on that to take the photos you see here.
Part of the reason for forgetting things on setting off was that, as well as plotting the cycle route for today, I also spent some time seeking out a couple of churches that I might visit. I discovered two Grade II” churches that looked appealing, the first of which was the Church of St Petrock and St Barnabus (Listed Grade II*), Farringdon.
As soon as I saw this church I knew I’d like it. It was immediately obvious to me that this was no ordinary Devon church. The tower with it’s splayed roof and louvered windows was the first giveaway. I approached the entrance, and peered in the open door, with a ‘Keep Closed’ notice pinned to it. I could make out faint noises and thought someone was in the church. I was only there a few minutes before I saw birds flying about the church roof. I think they were house martins. Well, there was little point me shutting the door, as obviously the intention had been to keep the birds out.
The interior of the church immediately struck me as warm and inviting. Little touches in the design instantly made me think, Arts and Crafts movement. The church was completely rebuilt in 1870, and about all that remains of any consequence from previous incarnations is the beautiful Norman font.
Here is something that made me smile. Apparently the Exeter born historian William George Hoskins opinion of this church, was to describe it as “hideous”. This was quite the opposite to my reaction.
I don’t consider my taste in churches as being so off-beam as to not know an interesting church when I see one, so this disparity was at first a little perplexing to me. I can only put it down to the fact that the historian in WGH got the better of his judgement. Perhaps this is the attitude of a purist who was reacting to the almost total loss of what had gone before.
I don’t think I’m alone in thinking Farringdon church has merit. The listed building entry (II*!) for the church finishes with the statement, “The church has an attractive setting and as a Victorian Gothic church is very successful.” Little touches like this corbel carved as a praying angel I thought quite delightful.
I had some lunch in the church graveyard before continuing on my journey. Whilst eating my picnic lunch, someone, evidently the church warden, arrived. She quizzed me about the church door, I thought she might. I explained that it was open upon my arrival, and thought it wouldn’t make sense to close the door with birds inside the church. She agreed, although she looked rather thwarted by the failure to keep birds out of the church. This lady had come to do some work on the lychgate, which, quite disrespectfully I had padlocked my bicycle to. Incidentally, the lychgate is itself Listed Grade II.
I should explain that the photos I took of the Church of St Petrock and St Barnabus, Farringdon, were the only photos I took today. I did reach my next objective church, Salem Church including Boundary Walls and Assembly Room (Listed Grade II*), East Budleigh, but this was sadly closed and locked. I was able to gaze in through the windows, and what I saw looked most interesting. It appears to be an extremely well preserved chapel of this time. I think it would be classed as a dissenter’s chapel, and as such it has a very austere interior which I find appealing. I couldn’t help but conjure up images from The Crucible, a play set in Salem, America. This chapel conjures up the right Puritan feel of that play. Without doubt, I must attempt to return sometime when it is open.
I rested on a rickety old bench, which I first tested before sitting, and had a drink of water before setting off for Budleigh Salterton. I cycled down a green lane, which was a little overgrown, so I was once again dodging nettles and thorns as I went. As I entered the outskirts of Budleigh Salterton it was getting late and so unfortunately I took the decision to pick up the disused railway and immediately make my way towards Exmouth, the start of my return journey home. I then picked up the Exe Estuary Trail and followed this all the way home.
This proved an excellent cycle ride, and one that I shall look to do again. It’s not too demanding, avoiding a climb to the highest parts of Woodbury Common, and yet it is of a reasonable length, and certainly traces its way through some lovely scenery. Definitely one that I can recommend.
One little postscript. I did meet a lady in Farringdon who stopped and chatted with me about the church for quite some time. Her name was Janet Sawyer, and she represents the Farringdon Society of Arts. She lives in a house that has a gorgeous view of the church. She told me about the arts festival that is happening in Farringdon in September. I understand cream teas will be laid on, so this might be the ideal time to plan a visit to this, not so ‘hideous’, but really quite charming church.
Cycle Statistics:
Total Distance: 33.1 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 05min
Stopped Time: 2hrs 04min
Total Ascent: 634 metres
Maximum Elevation: 161 metres
Individual Cycle Route Sections:
(1): Exeter to Budleigh Salterton 13.52 miles (21.78 kilometres)
(2): Budleigh Salterton to Exmouth 6.26 miles (10.08 kilometres)
(3): Exmouth to Exeter 8.30 miles (13.35 kilometres)
Total distance cycled: 33.13 miles (45.21 kilometres)
Buses: (none)
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