Synopsis: Glorious views on this short but charming walk. Not quite to plan, as forestry workings forced a deviation. Dartmouth was exceedingly busy, with ferry and cruise boats whizzing in every direction.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
A hot sunny day forecast, and I had no plans for the day other than wishing to go for a walk. I scrambled together a walk route, packed sandwiches and caught the 9:40 bus out of Exeter.
I made for Churston, from where I then walked down country lanes to the tiny isolated beach of Galmpton. Situated on a small creek on the River Dart, the main activity being boat building. Considering there’s a constant stream of tourists running close by, on their visits to Agatha Christie’s Greenway, I find that there is always an unexpected air of calm and tranquillity in this cove. I was able to walk the tidal path along the beach which I had to myself.
Climbing from Galmpton Beach, I connected with a lane that dropped past the entrance to Greenway, leading down to Greenway Quay. I gave the bell clapper a good pull which resounded across the river leaving little doubt the ferryman would know a passenger was waiting. There was a tiny café (shed) serving refreshments on the quay. It wasn’t long before the ferry was to be seen rapidly approaching the jetty.
Across the river from Dittisham (I always want to say Ditti-sham, when of course it should be Dits-ham), a pretty place, with a couple of eating places right down on the river. I however had my picnic lunch packed in my rucksack, and so made my way through the village, taking in views of the many picturesque cottages in the village as I went.
It was however a steep climb up through the village to the point where my intended path branched left, following the contour of the hill. The view that I was greeted with was spectacular. There was little chance this could be bettered, so I chose some shade under a nearby tree as my picnic spot.
A friendly couple, I think glad to catch their breath, stopped and chatted with me for a while. They told me they were from the Midlands originally, living in Exmouth now, having moved to Exeter forty-eight years ago. I think that would make them honorary Devonians. They’d parked at Kingswear and walked to Greenway where I’d first seen them, crossing the river on the same ferry crossing that I had used. Their plan was to walk into Dartmouth where they’d catch a ferry across the Dart to Kingswear.
After my picnic lunch I set out through corn fields fast ripening in the heat of this hot and sunny July day. I entered a lane and branched left, hoping to pick up a permissive footpath on Fire Beacon Hill that would take me down to Rough Hole Point on Old Mill Creek, by the banks of the River Dart, but signage strongly advised me that this path was closed due to forest workings. I didn’t push my luck and try it, as there was an alternative route that would serve my purpose nearly as well. I think this was a wise decision as a huge logging truck passed me, loaded with timber, so evidently work was continuing.
A short distance further and my way branched right right from the lane, now taking me onto a green lane through a network of fields. My way then dropped and picked up the course of a stream, taking me into woods.
A young lady sat in a secluded spot quietly contemplating life, at least till I disrupted her revery. She told me she was revisiting the haunts where she had grown up, now living in Merthyr Tydfil. An old ‘castle’ (at Sandquay Wood) in which she once played has now been cordoned off by Health & Safety. She recalled climbing the narrow and wet stone steps, and how a friend had slipped and unfortunately hurt her back. I did say she was at least lucky in that the haunts of her youth remained, as, in the village in which I grew up, Exminster, the school had been demolished, my home flattened, the fields developed for housing, and the motorway runs through the old quarry in which I once played. I’m told this is progress.
My way took me down to Old Mill Creek where my track skirted the upper reaches of this inlet, crossing a bridge by Old Mill Cottage. This location had a lovely old world backwater feel about it. You can imagine an intriguing Secret Seven adventure beginning from this very spot. Joining a lane I began my slow and steady trudge up a steep lane rising from the creek.
Ascending the lane I stopped momentarily at the entrance to Sandquay Wood where there is a small car park and a noticeboard with information about the woods. I wish I’d explored the short walk into the woods as described on the noticeboard in the car park. It even mentions an artificial lake that it describes as part of an Arcadian landscape. Sounds lovely, and I now wish I had taken time out to take a look around (next time!).
I entered Dartmouth through the small suburb of Townstal. Glancing to my left I saw the grand gates of Britannia Royal Naval College, a symbol of our nation’s proud naval history. I then took a quick peek into St Clement’s Church but as a singing practice was about to start, and despite invitations to join them, gracefully declined, I continued on my way. I noticed these highly nautical gravestones on my way through the graveyard. Memorials to those now sailing the great ocean in the sky.
I arrived in Dartmouth with a little more than an hour to spare before the arrival of my bus. I found myself entering the town along a small, narrow, cobbled route, lined with quaint cottages, that must be one of the older byways of Dartmouth. I’d not come this way before and it was a delightful way to greet the town.
I took a little time out on a bench under the shade of a tree in Royal Avenue Gardens. Five minutes respite, just long enough for a drink and an apple, before exploring Dartmouth town. It’s a place I never tire of, enjoying my free time to relax and enjoy the scenery at leisure.
An unexpected treat was, for the very first time, my catching sight of the Kingswear Castle paddle steamer as it made its way upriver. I’d read a little about this steamer in an interesting photo collage named ‘Keeping Britain’s paddle steamers afloat’ (see image 6) on the BBC History web site. Built in 1924, The Kingswear Castle is the last remaining coal-fired paddle steamer in operation in the UK today. See also ‘Kingsbridge, Paddle Steamer On The River 1920’ on Francis Frith.
I also caught sight of an unusual looking boat, The Fairmile. Originally named Western Lady III, in May 2013, she was returned to her original wartime appearance. She is operated by Greenway Ferry on their day cruise from Torquay and Brixham to Dartmouth and Greenway. I did actually catch sight of her prior to this makeover, moored at Galmpton Creek, as can be seen in my photo Goodrington to Kingswear 027 taken on 17th April 2010.
My bus departed Dartmouth for Totnes punctually at 16:35. It had been a lovely day’s walking, and briefly meeting with people, who like me, were out enjoying the delights of Devon on this summer’s day.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 7.0 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 32min
Stopped Time: 1hr 23min
Total Ascent: 359 metres
Maximum Elevation: 165 metres
Buses: X46, Stagecoach Gold & X64
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