Synopsis: Woodland walking in Haldon Forest combined with Devon lanes and footpaths to connect me with Doddiscombsleigh and Ashton. Time also given to explore the historic churches en route.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
This walk is derived from walk 14 in the book Adventurous Pub Walks in Devon by Michael Bennie. This book, which I borrowed from the library, has about 20 walks described in it. This is the second of my walks from this book that I have attempted. The selection of walks is well chosen, and the directional narrative very clear. The maps contained in the book are purely rough sketches and in themselves would be difficult to follow, necessitating an Ordnance Survey map or GPS to aid navigation. To see other walks from this book that I have completed, use the link under Tags to the right.
As much as the book Adventurous Pub Walks in Devon is full of interesting ideas for walks, they can be problematic, particularly where they’ve become dated. That was always likely to be the case with this walk as it leads one through Haldon Forest which has been extensively developed as an off-road cycle centre. I struggled at first to find my way amidst the cycle tracks as one is discouraged from walking on most of the mountain biking tracks for obvious reasons.
But that aside from some initial difficulties finding my way, this was a lovely walk, full of variety, and one that took me through some stunning scenery. Once away from the busy main Exeter-Plymouth road it was refreshing to be walking in early morning sun through Haldon Forest. At the main forest trails centre I did pause a while so as to attempt to call the Stagecoach bus company, as the driver who’d picked me up was exceedingly perplexed at my request for a return to Harcombe Cross, insisting the X38 didn’t stop there, but I know it should, as it’s on the timetable I’d checked only last night. Anyway, I couldn’t get through to Stagecoach so I made a mental note to alter my end of walk plans slightly to avoid the risk of my bus home failing to pick me up.
Haldon Forest Park
There are lots of facilities at the trail centre including parking (pay-and-display), toilets, trail information and a café, although the latter didn’t seem to be open at this time of day (10am). I left the centre and headed off into the woods. As I said previously, I meandered a bit until I found my way. Anyone following in my footsteps I would advise to cut out my initial meanderings and head from the car park straight towards this trail start point.
Lawrence Castle (Haldon Belvedere)
I was now well on my way and walking a wide forest track dipping into a valley. I then climbed to a road, crossed this, and then continued on what I believe is a family cycle trail. I was soon approaching the Haldon Belvedere which I caught glimpses of through the trees. A notice indicated that a ceremony was taking place at the Belevedere, and looking up I could see a collection of people, I think possibly a wedding party.
Views from Haldon Gate
The views from the high lane across the valleys from here are I think some of the best in Devon. They’re a little difficult to photograph through the trees, but the scenery is stunning. Today was a perfect day to take all this in, as there was a good deal of bright sun from a sky dappled by clouds.
Lawrence Castle (Haldon Belvedere) from Tick Lane
This next part of my walk was almost entirely in lanes. I know from having studied maps of this area before, there aren’t that many public footpaths in this corner of Devon. This isn’t really a problems as the lanes can be quite enjoyable and aren’t congested with traffic.
St Michael's Parish Church, Doddiscombsleigh
As I approached Doddiscombsleigh the parish church of St Michael’s puts in an early appearance on the horizon. I decided to take some time out and explore the church. The planned walk for today isn’t long and I have plenty of time for pleasant distractions such as this.
The Seven Sacraments window, late 15th century
St Michael’s Parish Church, Listed Grade I, is wonderfully located with gorgeous idyllic views. The Seven Sacraments window, late 15th century, is perhaps the church’s greatest claim to fame, described, rightly so, as a national treasure. I also thought a number of the bench ends were particularly interesting. And, if you search it out, you’ll find a trefoil-headed aumbry not far from the altar.
St Michael's Parish Church, Doddiscombsleigh - bench in the sun
As there was a bench in the sun in the idyllic setting of the church graveyard, and it was nearly midday, I decided to make that my lunch stop. The sun was shining and it was reasonably warm, on this cool day, sat there enjoying my lunch. I was happy!
Nobody Inn and war memorial, Doddiscombsleigh
After lunch I walked into Doddiscombsleigh village. It has been some years since I was last here. Occasionally I would come here to eat in The Nobody Inn which has always had a good reputation for its food. It’s a place that is full of character and has a perfect setting here at the centre of the charming village.
Wild garlic edges the path through this grove
Following a narrow lane out Doddiscombsleigh I found myself in a very steeply sided valley. A little way along the lane my course took me onto a public footpath down to a stream, crossed on a footbridge. The path then followed a stream leading me past a horse contentedly grazing with little interest in me. I came out next to the Big Barn near Ashton.
St John the Baptist Parish Church, Ashton - south porch
As I walked along a lane leading into Ashton the village church loomed high on an outcrop of rock. It’s quite a climb though many warning signs of slippery steps to reach the lych gate. Gazing at the church from the gate I immediately knew I was in for a treat.
St John the Baptist Parish Church, Ashton - rood screen and barrel vault roof
Externally St John the Baptist Parish Church, Listed Grade I, doesn’t scream its merits at you, but I could see a fine old iron-studded door with what I suspect are original fittings in the form of latch and hinges, the first hint of wonders to be found. Actually the second hint, as I’d missed the first: the lychgate I’d just walked through is Listed Grade II. I’m afraid I completely missed that one. Inside I discovered the church has a superb barrel vault roof of a quality I’d not expected. And then I noticed the rood screen which has wonderful medieval paintings of the saints, largely intact and full of colour. And in addition to this I also noticed what I think would be some medieval stained glass.
Shafts of sunlight strike after the rains
Once again I had a fair amount of lane walking to do to take me back to Haldon Forest. On a lane gently rising and skirting the Forest I eventually reached a point where I took up a track into the forest. For a moment I sheltered under a tree from a rather heavy hail storm. I got into my waterproof gear so as to be able to continue my walk with getting a drenching.
I reached a little clearing in the woods just as the sun decided to shoot shafts of bright light through the leaves dripping with rain. It was one of those rare and magical play of lights that sets the place aglow and just has to be photographed.
Old Exeter to Plymouth road
Eventually I reached the trail centre car park. The rain had passed on by by this time, so off with the waterproofs and into my rucksack they went. I had noticed a cycle trail marked Kenn 2 miles and I decided that I’d follow this Just as I had suspected, it deposited me on what was once the old Exeter to Plymouth road that we used on family outings when I was a child. Now there’s hardly a car uses it, so it is pretty much given over to the bicycle.
Old Exeter to Plymouth road - old toll house
Walking down this old road I did pass Turnpike Cottage, listed Grade II, an old toll house. The building looks a little out of place on a road rarely frequented by traffic other than the occasional cyclist. Interestingly I read from the buildings listing that the road was built by the Plymouth and Exeter Road Trust in 1823. This road was still in use in the 1960s, and so served a long and useful purpose. One can’t but help wonder whether the more modern replacement will have such a long and useful life.
Annoyingly I just missed a bus, by only five minutes, but a quick check of the timetable and I noted that another bus would be along in 50 minutes. I made myself as comfortable as I could be on the steel road barrier (a seat would have been nice) and had some refreshments whilst waiting for the next bus.
I had been a good day’s walking leaving me feeling exercised and yet refreshed. The lilac trees are looking particularly fresh and vibrant this year; I suspect, like so many plants, they like the wet weather we’ve been experiencing. The walk included two Grade I listed churches to add to the considerable pleasures of this outing. Always delightful to come upon such good walks right on my doorstep. Do I really appreciate how lucky I am? I think just maybe I do.
Addendum: I have since this blog post visited and cycled three of the designated trails. You can read about my exploits in blog post: ‘04 June 2013 - Cycle: Haldon Forest Park Cycle Trails (41.9 Miles)’ For further information, see Haldon Forest Park maps and leaflets.Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 14.5 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 57min
Stopped Time: 1hr 23min
Total Ascent: 517 metres
Maximum Elevation: 258 metres
Buses: X38, X64 & H
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