Synopsis: A downhill walk (well, mostly) from the high cliff east of Lynmouth, along the banks of the East Lyn River, to Watersmeet (NT) for lunch. Ice creams for some in Lynmouth, tough car fetch for others.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
Looking down the valley of the East Lyn River
This was a day out with Mum and sister-in-law Christine. We parked in the car park at Barna Barrow, crossed the road, and picked the bridleway that looks out on the open access land of Exmoor. The views were exhilarating from the word go. We were above a bend in the East Lyn River and looked down its length westward and up its length southward. The trees, freshly in leaf, were at their most vibrant.
Confirmation that we're about to follow a recognised path to Watersmeet
My plan was to join a connecting path from the bridleway we were on that would link us to the East Lyn River. A gently sloping start soon steepened as we approached the niche of a small tributary of the Lyn River. I was a little uncertain about the existence and terrain of this connecting path, and was pleased to see a finger post at its intersection with the bridleway we walked, our first indication that this is a recognised walk route. My previous concerns soon dissipated as we set off along this path, as evidently this was a well maintained walk route that provided relatively easy going.
A minor deviation to take a closer look at Ash Bridge, a footbridge over the East Lyn River
At the point where our path met with the East Lyn River we could see upriver the Ash Bridge footbridge, clearly shown on the map. Although not in our direction of travel, I walked towards the footbridge to take photos of this beautiful spot.
Following the East Lyn River downstream towards Watersmeet
We then continued on downriver along an easy path by the gently flowing waters with not a soul to be seen. This stretch of our walk was particularly lovely. The footpath sticks closely to the banks of rivers and all along its length are delightful views particularly on a day like today with dappled sunlight sparkling on the waters.
Watersmeet (NT) - our table in the shade
We discovered Watersmeet (NT) thriving with activity as we emerged from our woodland path, about 2.1 miles into our walk. Hardly surprising since this is a gorgeous place to be, especially on a warm sunny day like today. We arrived rather warm from our walking and were keen to find a table in the shade and so we chose a table on the veranda overlooking the picnic lawn where there were many more tables. The little refectory was operating at full capacity with a steady stream of customers sailing through, but the staff were coping admirably in the confines of their tiny serving room.
Watersmeet (NT) - viewed from the pedestrian footbridge
Watersmeet was built originally as a “fishing lodge and romantic retreat”. Apparently as early as 1901 it had become tea rooms, testimony to just how long visitors have been coming to this idyllic corner of the world. I wonder just where we come on the visitor-o-meter. I have to confess, feeling smug about our efforts to walk here, wondering just how many had simply lolloped across from the car park across the road.
Watersmeet (NT) - waterfall on the West Lyn River
We finished our snack lunch with some small pieces of chocolate and fruit cake (well, we did have to keep our energy levels up) and then made for the footbridge over the Lyn River. From here is the location’s ‘classic view’ of the waterfall on the West Lyn River. River levels weren’t high today, but even so, the falls are impressive sight to behold.
Walking the River Lyn from Watersmeet to Lynmouth - just downriver of Watersmeet
We made our way down the east bank of the Lyn River. Families were playing in the waters just below Watersmeet, a good place to cool your feet on a hot day like today. This part of the walk was level and easy going, walking in the dappled shade of the valley.
Walking the River Lyn from Watersmeet to Lynmouth – short of breath we may be, but there's always time to chat
It’s not long however before the path begins a steady climb into the woods. This was rather testing for Mum, at 76, so we slowed our pace and simply pootled along enjoying the scenery. To give some idea of the climb involved, Watersmeet is at an altitude of 110 metres, from where a steady climb on our way to Lynmouth took us to an altitude of about 210 metres. There were numerous little benches strategically placed along the path which on occasion we took advantage of, glad to rest our legs and take a drink, and maybe a grape or two.
Walking the River Lyn from Watersmeet to Lynmouth
Gradually we began our descent as we approached Lynmouth. The first few houses came into sight, many of which are holiday lets. The sun had brought everyone out and the car park looked full. On reaching the main road bridge we had to go our separate ways. Me, to climb the steep cliff back to Barna Barow to fetch our car, Mum and Christine to find a café serving ice creams. I leave to your discretion which of these you think the better option.
Walk for me back to Barna Barrow car park to fetch car - looking east along the coast
The stiff climb out of Lynmouth was not without its pleasures. I consoled myself with dramatic views such as this along the cliffs east of Lynmouth as I trudge the coastal path forever upwards, thoughts of Mum and Christine eating their ice creams in my mind.
Walk for me back to Barna Barrow car park to fetch car - looking west back towards Lynmouth
It was a walk of approximately 2.2 miles, a climb of about 300 metres, taking me a time of 55 minutes to get back to the car. This is a pretty demanding undertaking, so just as well I’m in good shape, but even so, I arrived back at the car hot and tired. Consoling myself with the thought that I needed the exercise, and the views back to Lynmouth were a special treat if not quite the match for an ice cream, it was only a matter of minutes before I was back in Lynmouth car park with Mum and Christine. Fruit drinks all round and a cookie or two saw us rejuvenated and ready for the journey home.
A great day out, both in terms of the walking and the drive over Exmoor. Exmoor is a little way from our home town of Exeter, but well worth the effort for a day out. Rather late arriving back in Exeter we decided to be lazy and plumped for fish-n-chips to round off a totally splendid day.
Note (GPS): Please be advised that much of today’s walking was a GPS device nightmare since we were in steeply sided valleys and under forest cover much of the time. My handheld Garmin served commendably in confirming our walk course (although we followed an easily navigable well marked path) on the day. However, retrospectively examining the tracklog data I see how the recorded route spiders here-and there as my GPS struggled to track our location, and a significant aberration has occurred to the altitude profile for this walk therefore little reliance should be put on this.
Note (driving): The drive route from Dulverton to Barna Barro car park was this route, whereas the return drive route from Lynmouth to Duverton was this route. It was nice to have had two slightly different drive routes over Exmoor, one outward, the other on return. The drive route in both directions between Exeter and Dulverton was the direct route through Tiverton and Bickleigh.
Walk Statistics (including climb from Lynmouth to car park at Barna Barrow):
Total Distance: 6.7 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 11min
Stopped Time: 2hrs 53min
Elapsed Time: 5hrs 34min (including 30 min lunch stop at Watersmeet)
Total Ascent: 581 metres
Maximum Elevation: 312 metres
Walk Statistics (Barna Barrow car park to Lynmouth):
Total Distance: 4.5 miles
Elapsed Time: 4hrs 41min
Walk Statistics (Lynmouth to Barna Barrow car park):
Total Distance: 2.2 miles
Elapsed Time: 53min
Buses: (none)
