Synopsis: Walk included Paignton, Goodrington, Churston and Broadsands. A heavy early morning mist seemed reluctant to clear, but finally the sun burnt its way through giving a glorious warm afternoon.
The first thing that caught my eye, even before I’d left Paignton railway station, was that the station café had a delicious collection of saucy postcards. I’m under the impression these are not as commonplace as they once were. I’m a fan, and so was glad to see them. I suppose they’re not PC, but then, neither am I, so I guess that’s alright then.
Down on the sea front the mist was still quite thick, although the sun was striving to break through, but with little success. I could just make out Paignton pier through the mist.
I headed in the direction of Paignton Harbour which I circled round and then headed up the hill, shortcutting Roundham Head and making straight for the cliff gardens of Goodrington, a favourite spot of mine. Many a picnic meal has been spent on a bench in these gardens, taking in the view right across the bay to Berry Head.
I heard the whistle of a train of the Paignton and Dartmouth Stream Railway. I hadn’t expected them to be running at this time of year, although it is half-term, and there probably are visitors in the area. I could just make out the steam train from the parapet of the road bridge, the train adding to the already plentiful supply of mist about the place.
I wasn’t too sure where I’d head from here. I decided to make my way to Broadsands via the road and decide upon my destination when I got there. There’s a picnic site that we in our family refer to as The Field, a place we’ve been using since we were children. The bench I selected for my lunch stop was shrouded in mist, with the sea lost in the mist, but it was a good candidate for the purposes of eating lunch.
After lunch I decided against one option, which would have been to have headed for Greenway (NT), primarily because I’d not prepared this walk, and there were too many uncertainties about such a visit, not least whether it was open. Instead I decided to walk in the direction of Brixham with a view to diverting on to the coast path at Churston Cove, just this side of Brixham.
I walked by Churston Court, trying the church to see whether it was open, but, as I suspected, it wasn’t. I continued on down the lane until I picked up a track in the direction of Churston Cove. Uh oh! trouble ahead. I came across this pool of muddy water spanning the track I was on, which caused me some consternation. I picked my way cagily along the one of the sides, hopping from stone to log wherever I could, and had nearly negotiated this obstacle when a party of 5 and one dog came upon me headed in the opposite direction. Their dog, a Dalmatian, named Helen as it happens, came towards me, seemingly amused that I was struggling with something that seemed to be causing him no bother whatsoever. Oh to be a dog!
A little way along the track, at a place where there’s an information board, I deviated left into woods along a designated path, dropping down into the valley floor, and then following this out to Churston Cove.
The cove looked marvellous with just the hint of wispy mist lingering in the air. The sun was by now winning its battle with the mist which was fast evaporating. I climbed up onto one of the rock banks of the cove from where it was possible to see the breakwater at Brixham with the lighthouse at the end of it. In the other direction, looking back towards Paignton, the last remains of the thick banks of rolling mist could still be seen.
It was now time to start my return trek, this time along the coast path between Brixham and Paignton. The path was quite slippery in places, being very muddy with the occasional steep incline. I crossed Elberry Cove, a picturesque place with what seems like some kind of lookout in the corner.
Just around the corner from Elberry Cove is Broadsands, a very popular destination with visitors and dog walkers. I did a broad sweep along the beach with the aim of removing as much mud from my boots as I possibly could. Travelling by train, I need to look reasonably fit to board a carriage upon arriving at Paignton railway station.
From Broadsands there is a short lane that leads to foot of the railway viaduct, and then an awful series of steps to climb to gain the height of the railway. I always hate this section, but today I managed it without becoming entirely winded. I decided to explore a path through the residential estate from the top of the steps. I’d known for some time a path existed, but had not figured where it lead. I discovered that after meandering through the estate for a while, it came out on the main road just out of Goodrington. Following the main road soon lead me back to Goodrington beach. I skirted the beach and then walked through the park, picking up the path that follows the railway line leading straight to Paignton railway station.
It had been a rather impromptu walk, but it was none the worse for that. It’s always delightful to rediscover the beauty that’s right on our doorstep down here in Devon. How lucky we are.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 11.1 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 21min
Stopped Time: 58min
Total Ascent: 338 metres
Maximum Elevation: 71 metres
Buses: (none)
Train: from Digby & Sowton to Paignton (off-peak day return - £7.00)
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