Synopsis: I’ve driven along this rail route many a time and thought one day I must catch the train, and today was that day. Mum and I also walked a loop around Totnes and then had a picnic tea in The Field.
South Devon Railway - Buckfastleigh Railway Station - our train waiting
I suggested to Mum we take a trip out and she needed little convincing. We’d talked about riding the South Devon Railway one day, and I suggested we do that and Mum was in accord. It was warm and sunny as I pulled the car into the free car park by the Buckfastleigh railway station. I was reading before setting out that it is fifty years since, what was then British Railways, closed this line. Judging by the number of people on the platform I can say this service is alive and well fifty years on from ‘closure’.
South Devon Railway - journey from Buckfastleigh to Totnes
A little careful thought as to which side would offer the best views of the River Dart (right side facing forward) and we selected our seats. The sun was shining in the window but we had no objection to being a little roasted as we went. There are in deed excellent views of the River Dart from the train and it does pay to be on the side of the carriage facing the river.
South Devon Railway - Totnes Littlehempston Railway Station
The steam engine lolloped along at a gentle pace (maximum speed reached a leisurely 35 mph) allowing us to make the most of the views. We arrived at Totnes Littlehempston train station right on schedule at 12:45, just thirty minutes after leaving Buckfastleigh, having travelled a distance of 7.1 miles.
Totnes - River Dart
Mum and I picked up a path that follows the River Dart in the direction of Totnes. This is a pleasant shady path that hugs the riverbank, taking us up to the main Totnes bypass road near the road bridge. Crossing the road we continued on the path, but, with hindsight, this was a mistake. I say that because, although potentially the most direct route to Morison’s, our intended destination, the way into the car park was rather annoyingly barred by a metal fence. The better path to Morrison’s starts a little further right along the road.
Totnes - the Butter Walk
Mum and I had very nice fish, chips and peas lunches at Morison’s (meal price £4.25 each) with a cool drink in pleasant surroundings. By now it was 14:00 which allowed us just sufficient time for a stroll around Totness before heading back to the rail station to catch our 15:00 train for our return journey to Buckfastleigh. We walked up Totnes Fore Street, under the arch that spans the road, up High Street along the Butter Walk, and then turned right into Castle Street.
Unfortunately we didn’t have time to take in Totnes Castle (EH), so we had to walk on by. The road dips down steeply from near the castle entrance, it being only a short walk to the mainline station which soon comes into view. We walked through the car park serving the mainline station and out the other end picking up a path across a bridge spanning the river and on to Littlehempston station which we reached early at 14:40. Within five minutes the train arrived so we took up our seats once again.
On arriving back at Buckfastleigh station we spent a little time in the railway museum which is entered from the platform. It is only a small museum stocked with an eclectic mix of memorabilia. Mum and I particularly liked looking at the period artwork reflecting various railway lines in south Devon at the time of their inception. These pictures represent an amazing document of the history of rail transport. I’d like to find out a little more about them. Perhaps a book exists that contains these images: I feel a little research coming on.
Carrying on a long standing tradition - it's time for a cup of tea.
On returning to our car I suggested to Mum we could do with a cup of tea. I said I would find us a nice spot to have a little picnic. I headed for The Field, as mentioned above. I say The Field, because everyone in my family will know where I mean by that. Mum & Dad would bring us regularly to this field as children for a picnic supper where we’d also play with balls, Frisbees, kites, etc. Now, ten years exactly since Dad passed away, it seemed the most fitting place to return, to put the kettle on, and drink a toast to happy days long gone.
Mum and I thoroughly enjoyed our day out. Steam trains and old carriages are such a delight for reasons it’s perhaps hard to pin down. Perhaps it hearkens back to a simpler time that many of us remember with fond nostalgia. But you know what they say?: “Nostalgia isn’t what it used to be.”
Walk (around Totnes) Statistics:
Total Distance: 3.3 miles
Elapsed Time: 1hr 53min
Total Ascent: 123 metres
Maximum Elevation: 43 metres
Buses: (none)
Trains: South Devon Railways return tickets Buckfastleigh to Totnes (Adult £11.80; Senior £10.80)
This town expanded with the help of the South Devon Railway in 1846, changing from a fishing port to a stylish resort. It is still a popular seaside destination for many people today.
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