Synopsis: A trip to Cockington to see the rhododendrons that weren’t in flower; I was late again! Then out the back of Cockington, across fields, through woods, and into Paignton and Norman splendour.
The weather forecast hinted today would be a little better than of late, so I felt I'd better make the most of it. The thought occurred to me the rhododendrons at Cockington might still be in bloom, so that would make a reasonable excuse for a trip to the seaside.
The quickest and cheapest means for me to get to Torquay is by train, and a quick online check informed me the next train would be in an hour's time from my local station of Digby-Sowton. It was time to get a shift on and get some sandwiches made.
As is so often the case, it was only a tiny two carriage train that, on this popular route along the estuary to the coast, arrived at Digby-Sowton station, and the train proved busy as I'd expected, but not uncomfortably so. Actually, the train journey follows such a scenic route, that travelling this way adds to the pleasure of the day.
The tide was low, and cockle pickers were to be seen out on the estuary mudflats as the train passed by. I arrived fresh and relaxed after having let the train take the strain, as we say in this country.
Torquay railway station - lovely Victorian iron work
I always feel Victorian when I'm travelling by train, probably because our rail infrastructure is largely from that period, but possibly it's because I'm rather dated myself. Sadly much of the railway architecture is looking decidedly tired from underinvestment, but it’s still redolent of a more glorious past, and hopefully one day this country might just breath new life back into it, as it deserves preservation.
Cockington Court
Well, I found my timing was off, as the rhododendrons were all but over. All the same, the sun was shining and the lakes were enjoyable to wander around. The gunnera had done well, presumably by virtue of all the rain we have had.
Cockington Court - my lunch stop by the tulip tree
I found a bench in the sun on which to eat my lunch. Well, I was not going to pass up the chance, as goodness knows when the opportunity to sit in the sun might next come my way.
As I sat there eating my lunch I noticed that the tree beside which I sat was rather unusual, then I realised it was a tulip tree. On looking a little closer I could see it had several flowers. What a lovely tree it is.
Occombe Valley Woods - Nature Reserve
Once I had finished my lunch, I examined my map for a walk route. I had nothing more planned than a vague notion I'd like to walk across the back of Torbay to Paignton and then return along the sea front. I soon had a reasonable route plan in my head and was on my way.
Big confession: I missed my way just out of Cockington and had to back track a bit, but it was nothing too calamitous. After a period I entered Occombe Wood, which was a little haven wedged in amongst the suburbs of Paignton. I hadn't expected to come across such a tranquil place on this walk. Apparently this wood was designated a local nature reserve in 2004. A real treat.
Paignton Parish Church becomes visible above the rooftops
Back in the suburbs again, about five minutes after leaving the woods, Paignton parish church came into sight. Jutting out over a sea of rooftops. This was my next intended destination, so it was good to see my objective.
I wandered down Kirkham Street, an old street I conjectured, since its origins are probably not too distant from the 15th c. Kirkham Chantry I hoped to see in Paignton church.
Paignton Parish Church, St John the Baptist - 'recycled' Norman arch
Confession number 2: I must have walked under Paignton church's Norman arch and not noticed it before, to my shame. I don't know of another parish church in Devon that has such an arch, and therefore to have missed it was unforgiveable. It’s little wonder that the Parish Church of St John the Baptist is a Grade I listed building.
Paignton Parish Church, St John the Baptist - Kirkham Chantry
Wonderful though the door is, the true gem of this church has to be the previously mentioned Kirkham Chantry. As damaged as it is, the beauty of this work still shines through. The more often I see it, the more I'm enamoured by it; exquisite carving.
Paignton Parish Church, St John the Baptist - superb lamps around the church, which are Grade II Listed
I love the lamps that stand around the churchyard (see photo left). Whilst checking out the listed status of the church I discovered that these lamps are themselves Grade II listed. Worth a second look. I’ve never come across anything similar to these on my walks; they strike me as being so very gothic.
Torbay Road
I strolled along the exceedingly 'seaside shopper' main street of Paignton and found a bench on the sea front and had a snack before making my way to Torquay railway station. It was nice to see that Paignton now has traditional donkey rides on offer, adjacent to a new and rather splendid play area for children.
The day's walking had exceeded my expectations and proved thoroughly enjoyable. It was a joy to be out and about once again, after days spent cooped up indoors.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 10.6 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 04min
Stopped Time: 1hr 56min
Total Ascent: 433 metres
Maximum Elevation: 129 metres
Buses: (none)
Trains: Digby/Sowton to Torquay (off-peak day return: £6.70)
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