Synopsis: A walk to Wembury on the coast just east of Plymouth. Plus special treat of seeing close up the America’s Cup in Plymouth Sound. Plymouth Hoe was a very busy place today.
This is my first walk for quite some time. What with time spent on summer holidays and with my daughters Helen and Laura, plus working as a lifeguard at Devon Cliffs, I’ve had little time for walking these past few months. I have a confession to make in that there was an additional reason for spurring me to do a walk, and that was the free bus travel. To explain: on Wednesday morning I saw something that looked like a bus ticket in the hedge and walked past it at first, but took a few steps back to examine it. This was a fortuitous thing to have done, for I discovered the ticket was a Stagecoach bus pass valid for another 5 more days. My day out today is me taking advantage of this ticket.
I’m typing this on my netbook on the bus whilst on my journey to Plymouth. I was up at 5 am this morning, and after breakfast and preparing my lunch box, I was ready to leave the house as dawn was breaking. Walking across Ludwell Valley Country Park I came upon a couple of foxes still out scavenging for food,scarpering quickly once they caught sight of me. I’ve done this early morning walk across the park many a time but this was the first time that I’d come across foxes.
My rough plan for today is this: bus to Plymouth; connect with a bus service to Brixton, a short distance from Plymouth; walk a relatively short 6.5 mile route to the Mount Batten Ferry landing; take ferry into Plymouth; include on walk a 1.6 mile detour to Wembury for additional interest. The weather forecast for the day was mixed, but, as usual, I kept my fingers crossed.
The 94 bus deposited me at the head of a lane in Brixton down which my walk was to start. It felt refreshing to be out in the countryside again. Although quite close to the sizeable city of Plymouth, you’d not know it. There was a peace and tranquillity to be had. The countryside I walked through was quite attractive. My path swept down to cross the head of Cofflete Creek this photograph of which symbolises the serenity of this place.
I steadily climbed for a while until I reached the point at which my extension to Wembury began. It would add 3.2 miles to my walk going to Wembury, and was an option to be added if the weather was favourable, and it was. From this point the path slowly descends to the coast. The final section of which is very level and gravelled, as if a disused railway line, although I do not think it is one.
As soon as I reached Wembury a squall got up so I quickly took a few photos down by the deserted beach and then dashed up the hill to find shelter in the church. One of the photos that I took was of this finger post that told me the Coast-to-Coast distance of 117 miles to Lynmouth; I was on the officially recognized Two Moors Way (Devon Coast to Coast) path; I hadn’t realised, but this is one of the start/finish points of this path. Maybe something to consider for a future ‘walk’.
On entering the church I could hear voices coming from behind a cloaked-off baptistery. On listening for a while I ascertained the vicar was taking a couple to be married through the order of the ceremony. I tip-toed around the other parts of the church taking some photos. There are a couple of impressive memorials in the church dating from the 17th century. That was obviously a time when there were a number of people with quite some considerable wealth in the neighbourhood.
On exiting the church I sought out a bench in the cemetery at a high point and with an excellent vantage across the cove on which to take a short break. I notice the church is happy for people to park in their car park if being used on church business, for which you’re encouraged to place ‘at least £2 in the box’.
From Wembury I began the gradual climb back out of the valley to regain my main path taking me in the direction of Plymouth. The weather had improved by now, although the wind was strong. My next priority was finding some shelter from the wind where I might sit to eat my lunch. It wasn’t long before I found myself in woods that served the purpose handsomely.
The woods in which I ate my lunch was close to the suburbs of Plymouth so there were a number of dog walkers walkers to be seen taking their short stroll with Rover. After crossing a main road I found myself at a little inlet of the River Tamar; on which I took the wrong course taking me to some old ruined buildings which seemed quite grand but I’ve no idea what they were.
After correcting myself I set off down the right side of the inlet which took me to the banks of the River Tamar. At this point there is an old fortified bridge that spans the water and it was this that I used to cross the mouth of the inlet.
The path from this point mostly follows the waterfront and is well sign posted as the South West Coastal Path. I reached the landing of the Mount Batten Ferry just as 3 pm was approaching and saw the passengers disembarking from the ferry boat.
The ferry provided an excellent platform to get a close view of the America’s Cup yacht racing that was taking place in Plymouth Sound. There were yachts dashing hither and thither and helicopters buzzing the air. All along the road around the citadel there were hundreds of spectators. As I had time to spare before my bus was due I decided to walk up on the Hoe and investigate proceedings.
Up on the Hoe there was a real carnival atmosphere with a large screen TV showing the race and commentary given by a number of presenters. There was also an enormous ferris wheel on the Hoe, somewhat akin to the London Eye.
I watched one of the races from the Hoe. Two yachts were competing against each other: Oracle, representing America, and Fitel, representing France. The Oracle team’s tactics were brilliant, jockeying for position with the French boat at the start they completely trumped the French shooting off with sails full of wind whilst the French were left in the doldrums. The Fitel yacht never recovered, leaving Oracle to run away with the race.
By now I needed to be on my way to catch my bus. I decided to circle the Hoe taking in the Tinside Lido on my way, and passing the Barbican on route to the bus station.
An interesting walk with plenty to see. The America’s Cup provided an amusing and unexpected diversion at the end of the day. A good antidote to all those hours spent as a lifeguard by the side of a swimming pool. I finished the day tired but relaxed.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 14.3 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 29min
Stopped Time: 1hr 23min
Total Ascent: 638 metres
Maximum Elevation: 123, metres
Buses: X38 & 94
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