Synopsis: Not so much walking as sightseeing. Totnes Castle stood tall above the town it once guarded. Music galore in Dartmouth. Greenway a quiet oasis reflecting a bygone age.
It’s 8:40 in the morning and, with my trusty netbook on my lap, I’ve started this blog early, on the bus travelling towards Totnes. I had planned a walk on Dartmoor for today, but the weather forecast wasn’t good, so this is Plan B, dreamt up hastily the previous night. It’s quite damp outside; what a friend once described to me as Devon drizzle. I suppose it’s not uncommon in this coastal county of ours, but at least it’s mild.
Totnes - Fore Street
My Plan B starts with a visit to Totnes Castle. I’m currently, courtesy of Tesco Deals, a member of English Heritage, so I’m entitled to free entry to this castle, a place I’ve not visited since an old school geography trip with Mr Garrick, a number of years ago that I’ll leave you to guess at. At least the castle, a classic Norman motte and bailey construction (see, I was listening!), has been overlooking the people of Totnes since well before my school trip, so it’s likely to be much the same today as back then. I approach Totnes Castle along Fore Street.
Totnes Castle - motte from the bailey
I’m now back on the bus after my visit to Totnes Castle. Me and a couple of German tourists were kept hanging around outside the gates to the castle for around fifteen minutes. The English Heritage steward (appearing from hut visible in photo left) informed us that people had got into the castle overnight and he had to clear up after them before he could let us in. I said, “I thought a castle was supposed to be impregnable.” To which the steward replied, “Unfortunately not to the youths of the town who like to come in and party of an evening.”
Interesting fact: 'The word Tot identified a 'lookout' to the Saxons and hence their creation of a settlement here - Totness!' – Book: The River Dart, p.138, by author John Risdon.
Totnes Castle - inside keep - view across town with River Dart visible in distance
I began my visit of the castle by walking around the perimeter wall surrounding the bailey from which a splendid sense is felt of the commanding position the castle holds set high above the town of Totnes. Easy to see how this was an ideal location when it came to subduing the common hordes below. I then climbed the winding steps up to the main castle fortifications entering through a small arch.
I remember not being that impressed with the small circular enclosure of the castle keep as a child, as it’s not comparable with the later medieval castles I’ve since come to know. But today I felt more in harmony with the place and its history and was impressed by its durability, and particularly by its wonderful location. Here the castle sits high above the town of Totnes, in its day governing inhabitants of the town, warding off attacks, and with easy access to the River Dart and subsequently the sea. I can well imagine how pleased the inhabitants would have been with the habitation that they had established at so fruitful a location.
Totnes - medieval guildhall
The clock was ticking and I knew I had to be on my way if I was to catch my bus to Dartmouth. It was just beginning to dawn on me how ambitious, as typical for me, my plans for the day were. I had just enough time to wander down to the old guildhall, which is a lovely old medieval building, and look around this and delight in the ancient solid old oak doors, before heading back down Fore Street towards the bus stop.
I was amused to watch a child playing with a model Tardis from the old Doctor Who television series. It brought back memories of how frightened I was as a child, scared of those robotic Daleks, seeing them in every shadow. It’s impressive how the stories of Doctor Who still continue to appeal to children more than forty years after the original broadcasts. And what a lovely idea the Tardis was; a police telephone box that was smaller on the outside than it was on the inside. Anyway, I catch my more conventional mode of transport, a bus, and am soon making my way towards Dartmouth and a much needed lunch stop.
Dartmouth - Bayards Cove
Dartmouth and lunch: it had just started to rain, but I found a bench under cover, so I managed to stay dry whilst eating my picnic lunch. There was some form of music festival happening in Dartmouth today, and there was a jazz band making one helluva racket in a nearby bandstand from which I was keen to move as far away from as possible. After lunch I picked up an information leaflet on the Greenway ferry from the Tourist Information Office. From this I concluded that the sailing I wished to catch was the 14:15, so I had plenty of time for a stroll around Dartmouth before departing for Greenway.
Dartmouth was incredibly busy, presumably at least in part due to the music festival. There were live acts in a lot of the pubs about the place, with people overflowing from these onto the streets. After a little while the clouds blew away and the sun came out for the first time today. I bought my ticket for the Greenway ferry and then found a bench on the harbour front which is where I’m sat typing this blog post. I was able to watch the various sailing vessels gliding up and down the river, and the occasional steam train coming to and going from Kingswear. It would be hard to imagine a more beautiful place to be. This is the kind of life that I could get used to. Now to go and catch my ferry to Greenway.
Dartmouth - Greenway Ferry - booking kiosk
I got myself a single ticket for the 14:15 Greenway Ferry from the ticket kiosk visible in the photo left. This ferry sails from the main pontoon in Dartmouth, adjacent to Dartmouth Station. The ferry was punctual, and it was a pleasant trip in the sun up the River Dart to Greenway. The boat landed at Greenway Quay, just opposite Dittisham, and then I picked up a way-marked track (it wasn’t signposted on our previous visit) through the woods to the entrance to Greenway (National Trust). I was asked at reception how I travelled, as the National Trust is very keen to promote green transport. I was happy to report that I’d arrived on the ferry. I believe the National Trust offers a discount if you travel to their properties in any means other than a car, which I think is a very commendable action. Members such as myself of course don’t benefit from that; I do think they could offer us a free cup of tea in the cafe.
Greenway property was previously the home of Agatha Christie. Back in March 2009 I organized a family outing by bus to Greenway which proved a delightful day out.
Greenway - bus that runs from Torquay
I managed a rather rushed tour of Greenway House, as I had buses to catch for my journey home. I would have liked more time to explore the house, and to have strolled around the gardens, where the azaleas were in bloom, but alas, I needed to be on my way. I felt the house was a little better established than it was on our visit in 2009, probably because the National Trust has had more time to settle into the property, which was only acquired by them in 2004. The property required massive restoration (£5.4m) before it was ready to be opened to the public. I caught sight of this lovely old bus parked outside Greenway House waiting to transport passengers back to Torquay.
Greenway - azaleas in bloom
Setting out along the lane from Greenway I happened upon some luck in that a car stopped and offered me a lift into Broadsands. The car was driven by a National Trust employee who man’s the gate. He said NT staff will often stop to offer people a lift if they see them strolling down the lane. I suppose it’s all part-and-parcel of encouraging the green traveller. Anyway, it got me to my bus stop far quicker than I’d anticipated, which meant I was on my bus into Torquay much earlier than I’d imagined I would be. Unfortunately, just by minutes, I missed the earlier bus to Exeter, seeing it pull out of Paignton bus station as I arrived, but I suppose I wouldn’t be typing this blog post on Torquay harbour side if I’d have caught it.
Catching a lift from a National Trust employee from Greenway, and a lot of time visiting places and properties, meant that very little walking got done today. I did however manage to cram in a lot of visits to very interesting places, so a most enjoyable day it was. The sun was short-lived, being only a fleeting glimpse at Dartmouth, but the weather wasn’t so bad as to spoil my day. And finally, if you should read this Mr Garrick, a thank you for invoking an interest in castles. A day in which it did seem as if I Capture the Castle, to quote the title of the book I’ve just read.
Walk Statistics (Totnes):
Total Distance: 1.4 miles
Moving Time: 42min
Stopped Time: 25min
Total Ascent: 66 metres
Maximum Elevation: 65 metres
Walk Statistics (Dartmouth):
Total Distance: 1.8 miles
Moving Time: 50min
Stopped Time: 54min
Total Ascent: 33 metres
Maximum Elevation: 25 metres
Buses: X64, 111, 120, 12 & X46
Ferry: Greenway ferry from Dartmouth to Greenway Quay – single ticket: £5.50
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