19 February 2011 – Walk: Brixham to Kingswear (8.1 Miles)

Synopsis: Familiar territory, but beautiful to see on a glorious day like today. Slippery footwork on the steep slopes after a night of heavy rain. Lunch overlooking Pudcombe Cove proved a delightful setting.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I hadn’t planned a route for this walk, as my original intention for today was to walk near Axminster. I changed my plans at the last moment, as it had rained so heavily overnight, that I felt the countryside was going to be waterlogged. I reckoned on the coast being dryer and easier going. I caught a bus from Exeter for Torbay, and worked out a walk route as I went. I settled upon a stretch of coast which is a favourite of mine, for being wild, rugged, and unspoilt, coast between Brixham and Kingswear.

Man Sands - looking towards Berry Head

I passed two lovely coves on my walk, that of Man Sands first, followed by Scabbacombe Sands. There’s a lime kiln right down on the beach at at Man Sands, something that isn’t quite such a mystery to me now, having seen how one was fired up and used on the Edwardian Farm TV programme. Evidently a precise art, and not without its dangers, as a good deal of carbon monoxide is given off in the process of heating the lime to incredibly high temperatures.

Pudcombe Cove - light and shade - Monterey Pine, I believe

 

 

 

I had a robin for company as I sat down at Pudcombe Cove to eat my lunch, and what better company could there be? Pudcombe Cove is at the combe in which Coleton Fishacre is to be found. I had not intended to visit Coleton Fishacre today, which was just as well, as it was closed. I had thought it might have opened for half-term week.

 

Pudcombe Cove - light and shade - Monterey Pine, I believe

 

 

Coleton Fishacre is bordered by belts of Monterey Pine, these create a picturesque scene at the coastal end of the combe. The sun shone on me through the trees as I sat looking out over the cove eating my lunch. Someone passing me by said, “What more could you want than a lovely place to eat your lunch.” I replied, saying, “This will do me just fine.”

Mill Bay Cove - dramatic lighting

 

 

Just past Pudcombe Cove my route took me inland following signs for the Brownstone car park. I chose this route rather than follow the coastal path as it would save me a some time, and effort. I know that sounds lazy, and perhaps it was a little. But, the route I walked did afford me some lovely views down to the coast in the direction of Mill Bay Cove, so I feel at least in part vindicated in my choice of route.

Kingswear - railway station - Art Deco style poster

 

 

 

 

Coming through Kingswear, which I didn’t have much time to explore, I did see this poster on the wall of the Kingswear Railway Station. The Paignton to Dartmouth Steam Railway, as it is known, is a lovely railway, but I’m not quite convinced it has the elegance suggested by this poster, which to me is more reminiscent of The Orient Express. Still, since Agatha Christie lived nearby at Greenway, perhaps we can excuse this little artistic indulgence.

 

 

A wonderful day’s walking. After a night of persistent heavy rain, I very nearly didn’t go out at all. Thank goodness I had the good sense to trust in the weather forecast which predicted sun. It was glorious!

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.1 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 22min
Stopped Time: 39min
Total Ascent: 637 metres
Maximum Elevation: 169 metres

Buses: X46, 12 & 120

12 February 2011 – Walk: Putts Corner to Sidmouth (9.5 Miles)

Synopsis: Far reaching views across swathes of Devon landscape. A quiet lunch in the churchyard of Salcombe Regis before arriving at the busy resort of Sidmouth. Plus a quote from Sir John Betjeman.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

My start point, for the simple reason this is where the bus stops, was Putts Corner. A rather out of the way sort of place, and goodness knows why the bus does stop here (on request). There is the Hare and Hounds Inn here, and a camping site nearby; perhaps these are reasons enough for a bus stop. Whatever the reason, this stop was a good place to begin my walk back in the direction of Simouth, from whence I’d just come by bus.

The views open out

I was about 45 minutes into this walk, traipsing across fields and through woods, before the views really began to open out as I had hoped they would. There are some lovely sweeping hills in this area. These were looking very lush in the bright sun of this February morning. There were very few people about. I passed one gentlemen carrying what I believe to have been a double-barrelled shotgun, spaniel at his heels, I imagine in the hope of bagging the odd pigeon.

Salcombe Regis - church

 

 

 

 

 

I approached the village of Salcombe Regis around lunchtime. The village is snugly nestled in a little comb that runs down to the coast. I found a comfortable bench bathed in sun in the churchyard in view of the church, and it was there that I ate my lunch, by a small pocket of snowdrops, the first I’d seen this spring.

 

Apparently Salcombe Regis was given to to the monastery founded by Athelstan at Exeter, which is how it came by its royal connection. The village had a reputation for smuggling, something in which the church was willing to co-operate, sometimes storing contraband high in the roof of the church, for a small cut of course. Nearby Slade farm was also involved. Henry Northcott, labourer records in 1819 that the brandy was strong and treacly, being condensed for shipment from France, and later watered down before sale. “Once they were in Slade cellar, but the King (i.e. the Customs Officers) called and they were only just started down the drains in time. It made the rats squeak.” (extract from the Shell Guide to Devon) I bet it did!

Sidmouth - Alma Bridge (1900)

I entered upon Sidmouth sea front by crossing over Alma Bridge, named after a battle during the Crimean War. The strange thing is, this bridge looked completely different in 1895 than it does now. Searching the Internet I find the bridge was, ‘Originally constructed in the mid-19th century, it was replaced in 1900.” I guess that explains why. I find the Battle of Alma took place on 20th September 1854. But whatever the story behind the bridge, it’s a splendid way to approach the promenade, and how nice it always is to be beside the seaside.

Sidmouth

 

“Gem of ravishing Regency architecture,” is how my my Shell Guide describes Sidmouth. It goes on to say, “Elegant, little villas sparkle with white paint, delicate ironwork and small panes of coloured glass.” It is definitely taken with Sidmouth, and who would dispute them? I too think it is a very smart place, full of old world charm, and quite stately as far as seaside places go. Apparently the cricket field, laid out in 1820 is one of the oldest in the country.

Sidmouth - Connaught Gardens - Verse from Sir John Betjeman

 

It is easy to see why Sir John Betjeman described Sidmouth as 'A town caught still in a timeless charm'. Sidmouth boasts over 500 listed buildings, many of which are relics of Sidmouth's heyday in the Regency era. He penned this verse, commemorated on a plaque in the Connaught Gardens, which reads:

“Pause on Peak Hill, look eastward to the town,
Then to the Connaught Gardens wander down
And in the shelter of its tropic bowers,
I see its bright and outsize Devon flowers”.

Sidmouth - Connaught Gardens - time for tea

 

 

 

The Clock Tower, which now functions as a cafe attached to the Connaught Gardens, was once a lime kiln on the cliff top by Jacob’s Ladder. The chalk was brought by boat and carried to the cliff top by donkeys. It eventually formed the foundation of a pseudo-fort with clock tower lookout and boathouse, complete with boat on davits (from blue wall-mounted disk nearby).

If you’d like to read about the Connaught Gardens, East Devon District Council have provided this informative guide to these gardens.

 

It was good to be out in the on this warm and sunny day in February. The peace and tranquillity of the countryside was nicely contrasted with the busy but sophisticated elegance of Sidmouth.

Note: I made a minor navigation error at this point (N50.70961 W3.20505) on the route where I took the left path but should have taken the higher path to the right, which had been my original intention. Not a significant problem, but simply involved me in a trek along a very wet and muddy track, one which could have been avoided if I’d taken the right course. I recommend adding a note to a waypoint with proximity indicator at this location to avoid making this error, something I’ve now added to my GPS route for this walk.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 9.5 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 58min
Stopped Time: 49min
Total Ascent: 392 metres
Maximum Elevation: 253 metres

Buses: 52B