Synopsis: A walk along the Tarka Trail, following the route of the old disused railway that once plied a trade between Barnstaple and Braunton. Braunton Burrows made for an unusual landscape.
What was I thinking of when I planned this walk? To do a walk of this distance from Barnstaple, travelling by bus, meant that it required a 4:30 alarm call, and that is the earliest I’ve yet started out on a walk. I had to be at the Exeter bus station in time to catch the 6:20 bus for North Tawton, where I’d connect with a 7:15 to take me on to Barnstaple. The weather forecast was so good for today I thought it would be worth my pains, and I was proven right.
BarnstapleThe rest of the world hardly seemed awake as I travelled by bus to Barnstaple, arriving in an early dawn mist, and yet already the day felt warm. I think it was mostly commuters that kept me company as it was still a bit early for the average pleasure seeker. I wended my way down to the river where it was easy to follow signposts indicating the way to the Tarka Trail. It was my intention to follow this route to Braunton where I’d then pick up the coastal path through Saunton and on to Croyde.
Tarka Trail - heading towards Braunton Burrows
As I walked along the Tarka Trail I was able to look out on the various birds that habit the Taw Estuary. I saw oyster catchers, curlew, grey heron, and of course the ubiquitous seagull. I do like the call of the curlew, a sort of warbling sound, probably my favourite bird call.
The lanes behind Braunton Burrows
I probably could have chosen a better route out of Braunton than the one that I walked, which followed a busy road for some way before I exited left onto a quiet lane. My intention was to head for Braunton Burrows at this point in my walk, as I was curious as to their nature, and wished to take a closer look at the dunes in this area. I’d seen them from a distance, both at the time I was walking the South West Coast Path, and when we did a family cycle ride along the Tarka Trail many years ago.
Braunton Burrows
At a car park, probably the one we used when cycling the trail, there is a path that heads into the burrows, and this I followed. I soon discovered that these dunes are of a very substantial scale, the only ones possibly comparable that I know of are those of Perran Sands in Cornwall.
Braunton Burrows
I had hoped for lunch spot with a sea view, but the sea, although in sight and quite enticing was still some way off across the dunes and I wasn’t confident enough of the terrain to venture that far from my planned route. I happily settled for a little dip in the dunes as a place to eat my lunch.
After lunch I backtracked a little to pick up the bridle way that runs the length of the dunes. This took me first past a cordoned off area used for military training which has numerous notices warning of live ammunition not to be touched. I then passed through Saunton Golf Course noting the numerous golfers searching in vain for their golf balls.
Saunton Sands BeachThe coastal path unfortunately takes you onto a busy road for a stretch, but it’s not too long before I was directed off of this and back onto a bridle way that soon took me down to the beach of Saunton Sands. There were a lot of families on the beach on this gorgeous day, and the sea looked beautiful and inviting. If only I had my swimming costume with me; I think I would have been tempted to take a dip. The surf was up and the surfers were having a whale of a time.
Saunton Sands Beach
From behind the small group of huts that provide amenities to the beach goers, the coastal path snakes up the hillside and eventually connects with the road. Hopping across the road to pick up the coastal path again, a route high off the road and affording me incredible views out along the length of Saunton Sands.
Croyde
Rounding the corner towards the end of this path I was immediately presented with a view across Croyde Bay. Once again the panorama is terrific, with foaming waves running hard against the beach. Across the beach the view stretched all the way out to Baggy Point. I had just time to sit on the beach for five minutes and take a drink before needing to seek out my return bus.
What I’ve made a mental note to do is come revisit the Braunton Burrows on another occasion, and devote a little more time to exploring them. This would be quite achievable using the regular bus service between Barnstaple and Croyde.
This had been a really good walk, but boy, was I glad to get to bed that night!
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 14.1 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 10min
Stopped Time: 38min
Total Ascent: 265 metres
Maximum Elevation: 69 metres
Buses: 51, 315, 308 & 155
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